|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
Adding instruments under dashViews : 991 Replies : 17Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Oct 13th, 2018, 15:22 | #11 | |
Member
Last Online: Mar 1st, 2022 00:17
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Mexico City
|
Quote:
|
|
Oct 13th, 2018, 18:19 | #12 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
|
Slightly OT but leads to value + originality
What follows is nothing much more than second guessing - only time will tell if my guesses are correct.
I think the value of common / ordinary fossil fuelled classic cars is probably about as high as they will get. I think the thing that is going to scupper the classic car market (for a while) is the availability of fossil fuels. I don't think "we" are likely to run out of oil as has been predicted for the last 40+ years before legislation will stop its use. The Dutch government has just been taken to court for not making sufficient improvements in reduction of country wide CO2 output. I reckon other governments / countries will also be forced to make CO2 / pollution busting moves. The Dutch government have already made it clear that by 2030 they want all new vehicles to be electric (whether the technology is ready for it or not). They are planning to encourage the use of electric vehicles via taxation. They have done this before for diesel engined vehicles - I expect they will do the same for petrol soon. They will undoubtedly do their best to price fossil fuelled cars off the road (making a sly buck on the side I expect). I expect many classic cars will be converted to electric - several options are already out there - but they're not cheap (yet). I suspect / predict classic cars that are not converted to electric will be worth a lot less in the long term future. At present I think batteries are too heavy and bulky for a small car like a PV - still at least there is more space than a MG (!) The only way forward I fear is to comply and adapt - just a question of when... ...a serious modification could very well be in many classic vehicles futures
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Oct 13th, 2018, 19:30 | #13 | |
Member
Last Online: Jan 23rd, 2024 07:52
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cape Town
|
Quote:
If the AMP light comes on when you turn on the ignition, you will know that the battery has voltage. But that is not the same as “battery charge”. If you then try to start the engine and the battery is obviously flat (you don’t need a gauge to tell you that), you will know that there is insufficient “charge” in the battery. But by then it is too late anyway. No “under the dash” gauge is going to give you any better indication. It certainly isn’t going to forewarn you. So why have one? |
|
Oct 13th, 2018, 20:44 | #14 |
Non Fragile
Last Online: Oct 13th, 2023 05:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chadderton, Oldham
|
I also feel more confident with a ammeter, even though all my cars have been alternater charged and neg earth. It does come in useful. The rate of charge can be seen, which gives a clue to the health of the battery. It's come in handy in other ways, for example when charging the battery of another car through jump leads - I could tell when my freind had connected the leads correctly because I saw it on the gauge. Also, once started, the rate at which the needle drops back to zero gives an indication of how much effort it took to start the engine. Though I will accept you can live without all this, but a P4 surely has a dynamo rather than an alternator (correct me if wrong) and for that an ammeter is vital.
I'd also put one in for split-charge too, so I can see how much is being passed into the trailer battery, but perhaps only because I've already got one. I've never actually done this yet, but it's an idea in the back of my mind. Oil pressure is vital too, I think, and I'll be fitting one very soon to the new T4. There aren't enough gauges in cars, and it annoys me. And that's before we consider the bling. :-) |
Oct 13th, 2018, 22:46 | #15 |
Member
Last Online: Mar 1st, 2022 00:17
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Mexico City
|
simonvolvo,
Perhaps I express myself wrong, what I need is an amp meter that will tell me if the generator is charging or not, you are right, when the battery is dead I do not need a gauge, however, when the generator is not charging, I can save myself some trouble by knowing ahead of time and avoiding to have a dead battery. |
Oct 13th, 2018, 22:48 | #16 |
Member
Last Online: Mar 1st, 2022 00:17
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Mexico City
|
Canis
100% with you in everything you said. I am a pilot (private) and used to gauges, lights don't say much. Andres Last edited by adarvasi; Oct 13th, 2018 at 22:54. |
Oct 14th, 2018, 03:55 | #17 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 00:11
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
Andres;
I also much prefer an Ampmeter to a Voltmeter...the Ampmeter giving much better and more usable info compared to the Voltmeter...long explanation here: http://www.sw-em.com/elecramb.htm Cheers |
Oct 14th, 2018, 04:00 | #18 |
Member
Last Online: Mar 1st, 2022 00:17
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Mexico City
|
Thank you Ron, excellent paper
Andres |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|