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Here is everything wrong with my 850R

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Old Nov 25th, 2018, 23:36   #1
Hadrien75
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Default Here is everything wrong with my 850R

Hello guys,

Just bought an nice red 855R, had 20 cars before I have almost never like one as much as this one. I bought the car about 2month ago and drove it back from Stockholm to Paris where i live.
After 2 month of ownership and seing how much i like the car i want to put it in tip top shape.
It was owned by a Volvo Mechanic for 10 years and about 200.000km ( total is 360.000km ) so i was very well taken care of.

Here is everything wrong with it and stuff needed to be done :

- WOT : I can do wot in 1st, almost in 2nd and then 3,4,5 the car accelerates but keeps on cutting power through the acceleration, like it is cutting on purpose. If i just put the pedal at 70% then no problems it accelerates quite nicely.
I am guessing power is there even at 70% cause i touched the speed limiter at 261km/h on the autobahn.

Leak from somewhere ? or plugs ? I am going to do a full stage 0 asap to start fresh anyway.
What are the mandatory things for a nice stage 0 ? The engine bay looks really clean but i am tempted for exemple to change all the vacuum lines... pcv is going to get changed too, should i go ipd or volvo ?

- I have a circular noise coming from the front of the car which is only hearable from the inside, the noise is linked to the speed of the car, the faster i go the faster the click noise appear, above 50kmh the click noise disappear.

- The engine temperature is in the middle of the gauge sitting in traffic or in the city, as soon as i hit the highway or b road, it drops to about 1/3. Thermostat is gone and stuck wide open isn't it ?

- Boost gauge isn't working at all, is there any way to check it ?

- The speedometer and digital counter is working but not the mechanical one. I heard it is a pretty commun 850 problem, is it easy to fix ?

- Last timing belt has been done at 325k km, i am going to have it made soon to start fresh. What are the other things to do while at it ? Water pump of course, but maybe other things too...?

- The air-conditioning isn't working. I think i might bring this to a specialised mechanic or is there a commun problem with those ?

- Being a swedish version, i have the front fog lights which are always on. Is there a way to by pass this ? I mean is this a ECU code that needs to be modify or is it hardware ?

- The commuter switch for the air blower is turning but the air only blows from below the front glass windshield, i can't choose the air to be towards my head, feet, or anywhere else.

- The right side of the car under bumps has a metal noise, i guess some bushing are dead. In this case what is the most commun procedure change all the bushing and start fresh ? Or check one by one and change each which need to be changed ?


Sorry for a lot of questions ! But thanks a lot in advance for the help !

Hadrien

Last edited by Hadrien75; Nov 25th, 2018 at 23:52.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 13:34   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
Here is everything wrong with it and stuff needed to be done :

- WOT : I can do wot in 1st, almost in 2nd and then 3,4,5 the car accelerates but keeps on cutting power through the acceleration, like it is cutting on purpose. If i just put the pedal at 70% then no problems it accelerates quite nicely.
I am guessing power is there even at 70% cause i touched the speed limiter at 261km/h on the autobahn.
This screams boost leak to me. I had the same issue when one of my vacuum lines was shot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
What are the mandatory things for a nice stage 0 ? The engine bay looks really clean but i am tempted for exemple to change all the vacuum lines... pcv is going to get changed too, should i go ipd or volvo ?
Stage 0 is fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires (if they need it, leave them otherwise), distributor cap and rotor arm, oil and filter, PCV, and of course those vacuum lines. Regarding the PCV, get it from Volvo - its pretty reasonable priced from them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- I have a circular noise coming from the front of the car which is only hearable from the inside, the noise is linked to the speed of the car, the faster i go the faster the click noise appear, above 50kmh the click noise disappear.
Not sure about this, given you say its only audible from the interior. I would have thought wheel bearing otherwise. Easy to check in any case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- The engine temperature is in the middle of the gauge sitting in traffic or in the city, as soon as i hit the highway or b road, it drops to about 1/3. Thermostat is gone and stuck wide open isn't it ?
Yes, you are quite right - thermostat has gone. Cheap and easy fix. If you have the spare money I would also replace the coolant temperature sensor. Its very easy to access once the thermostat housing is off so might as well do them both at the same time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- Boost gauge isn't working at all, is there any way to check it ?
Boost gauge is controlled by a vacuum line - check the line from boost solenoid to the dashboard (this might also be caused by the boost leak causing your acceleration issues).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- The speedometer and digital counter is working but not the mechanical one. I heard it is a pretty commun 850 problem, is it easy to fix ?
By mechanical one do you mean the odometer? The rotating dials that count mileage? Very common problem, easy but fiddly fix. Takes about an hour. You have to remove the dash pad and then get at the dials.

Here is a link to a very good guide - CLICK ME

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- Last timing belt has been done at 325k km, i am going to have it made soon to start fresh. What are the other things to do while at it ? Water pump of course, but maybe other things too...?
I'd do full cambelt kit, so belt, tensioners and water pump. Use genuine for all of these. Non-OEM waterpumps have a habit of failing on these cars.

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Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- The air-conditioning isn't working. I think i might bring this to a specialised mechanic or is there a commun problem with those ?
Specialised mechanic is the best bet. There are a couple of checks you can do yourself first though. A holed evaporator is very common, as it a damaged condensor. If your car does not have a pollen filter (lift the LHS scuttle panel and you'll either see a filter or you'll see a hole looking into the heater blower motor) then its very common for these to get damaged. Or, maybe, you'll be lucky like me and it will just be low on refrigerant!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- Being a swedish version, i have the front fog lights which are always on. Is there a way to by pass this ? I mean is this a ECU code that needs to be modify or is it hardware ?
Not sure about front fogs, but you can stop the main lights from always being on by looking at the headlight switch. In the bottom right there will be a flat-head screw - turn that to the left and it will stop the dipped beam being on 24/7.

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- The commuter switch for the air blower is turning but the air only blows from below the front glass windshield, i can't choose the air to be towards my head, feet, or anywhere else.
Not sure on this, but could be caused by one of the pipes that carry the air being disconnected (perhaps something was removed in the past to fix something else and reinstalled poorly).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
- The right side of the car under bumps has a metal noise, i guess some bushing are dead. In this case what is the most commun procedure change all the bushing and start fresh ? Or check one by one and change each which need to be changed ?
If its from the front then its most likely the rubber mount at the top of the suspension. If its from the rear then same thing, except for the rear shocks! For the front its this part, for the rear its this this part.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
Sorry for a lot of questions ! But thanks a lot in advance for the help !

Hadrien
Not a problem, hope you manage to get them all sorted.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 14:33   #3
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For the Stage 0 - also include;

1. the HT leads (PartForVolvosOnline do the original Bugicord ones at around £50).
2. Gearbox oil applicable to both manual and automatics.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 15:03   #4
Hadrien75
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Thanks a lot for all the answers. Looks like i can do a few myself


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookeh View Post
This screams boost leak to me. I had the same issue when one of my vacuum lines was shot.



Stage 0 is fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires (if they need it, leave them otherwise), distributor cap and rotor arm, oil and filter, PCV, and of course those vacuum lines. Regarding the PCV, get it from Volvo - its pretty reasonable priced from them.

I quickly tried to found the leak but couldn't, i will try again and see like you said if it can be linked to the boost gauge not working too.

I will order all the parts from Volvo and do the full stage 0 with all the mentioned parts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookeh View Post
Not sure about this, given you say its only audible from the interior. I would have thought wheel bearing otherwise. Easy to check in any case.

Yes, you are quite right - thermostat has gone. Cheap and easy fix. If you have the spare money I would also replace the coolant temperature sensor. Its very easy to access once the thermostat housing is off so might as well do them both at the same time.

I was thinking about a wheel bearing that is gone for the noise yes, i will check next time i can lift the car up.

Okay i will order the thermostat as well the coolant temp sensor. Is there different thermostat temp opening models ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookeh View Post
By mechanical one do you mean the odometer? The rotating dials that count mileage? Very common problem, easy but fiddly fix. Takes about an hour. You have to remove the dash pad and then get at the dials.

Here is a link to a very good guide - CLICK ME

Yes sorry i mean odometer, couldn't find the right word ! Thanks for the tutorial i will try that this weekend.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookeh View Post
I'd do full cambelt kit, so belt, tensioners and water pump. Use genuine for all of these. Non-OEM waterpumps have a habit of failing on these cars.


Specialised mechanic is the best bet. There are a couple of checks you can do yourself first though. A holed evaporator is very common, as it a damaged condensor. If your car does not have a pollen filter (lift the LHS scuttle panel and you'll either see a filter or you'll see a hole looking into the heater blower motor) then its very common for these to get damaged. Or, maybe, you'll be lucky like me and it will just be low on refrigerant!

Ok I will have the full cam belt kit from Volvo and OEM. Then done by a pro cause not sure i have the technical knowledge to do this.

Same for the AC i will go to see some specialised mechanic, crossing fingers it is just low on refrigerant.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookeh View Post
Not sure about front fogs, but you can stop the main lights from always being on by looking at the headlight switch. In the bottom right there will be a flat-head screw - turn that to the left and it will stop the dipped beam being on 24/7.

I think you are on to something with the front lights being always on, i will check that screw tonight and see if it makes a difference.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookeh View Post

If its from the front then its most likely the rubber mount at the top of the suspension. If its from the rear then same thing, except for the rear shocks! For the front its this part, for the rear its this this part.

Thanks yes it might be that or maybe the sway bars end links, gonna check this too as soon as i lift the car up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookeh View Post
Not sure on this, but could be caused by one of the pipes that carry the air being disconnected (perhaps something was removed in the past to fix something else and reinstalled poorly).

Does it normally clicks into position when you change the settings ? Cause mine seems all free and loose ( the knob ). Thanks for the lead i will check on the pipes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DSK View Post
For the Stage 0 - also include;

1. the HT leads (PartForVolvosOnline do the original Bugicord ones at around £50).
2. Gearbox oil applicable to both manual and automatics.
Okay i will order those.
Already did all the fluids on the car as soon as i got it.
Brake fluid, Oil, Gearbox oil, coolant
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 15:17   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
Thanks a lot for all the answers. Looks like i can do a few myself
Very welcome, and yes - these cars are rather simple to work on! Saves a lot in labour costs from garages and adds a lot of satisfaction

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
I quickly tried to found the leak but couldn't, i will try again and see like you said if it can be linked to the boost gauge not working too.

I will order all the parts from Volvo and do the full stage 0 with all the mentioned parts.
The usual suspects are the more flexible hoses just in behind of the radiator and the one going to the bottom of the intercooler (fatigue with age and ultimately split - normally on the back or bottom side just to make visibility a pain!), as well as the vacuum lines from the main tree and boost solenoid.

Here are another two videos that might help in tracking down the boost leaks. A good preventative maintenance that you can do yourself would be to go around and replace all the vacuum lines.

Video 1; Video 2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
I was thinking about a wheel bearing that is gone for the noise yes, i will check next time i can lift the car up.
Luckily its a very easy to check, and so quick to diagnose or rule out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
Okay i will order the thermostat as well the coolant temp sensor. Is there different thermostat temp opening models ?
If you get a genuine part then there is only one, but there are several aftermarkets available with different temperature ranges. I would personally stick with OEM...aftermarket seem to be hit and miss.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75 View Post
I think you are on to something with the front lights being always on, i will check that screw tonight and see if it makes a difference.

Here's a short video showing the screw and its effects - hopefully it works.
Video.

Quote:
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Does it normally clicks into position when you change the settings ? Cause mine seems all free and loose ( the knob ). Thanks for the lead i will check on the pipes.
Mine does indeed click, perhaps you have an issue with the selector unit instead.

On a related note, the channel I keep linking too is an excellent source for trouble shooting faults with the P80 cars. His camera work can be a bit iffy sometimes but the information is great.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 22:14   #6
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Default boost gauge

There is a white pipe runs along the top of or infront of the inlet manifold,mine had come undone at the rubber L shaped elbow- causing my boost gauge not to work,,,
As Cookeh says, check all your boost hoses, had one split that connects to the throttle body and all the rest were very soft indeed,.

Craig.
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Old Nov 27th, 2018, 14:36   #7
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- Also the engine looked really clean, I found a cracked vacuum line already.
So yeah i am not going to dig deeper but gonna order all the lines from Volvo. I want to start fresh and know what is new on the car in the future.

- Gonna order OEM Thermostat and temp sensor too.

- Miracle for the lights ! I did what was said in the video and it fixed the issue !
Car didn't pass French MOT cause of that and smog, so at least that's one of the two issues fixed.

- For the heater selector yep I was thinking it could be the inner part of the switch which might be broken. Gonna have more time over the weekend to check it.
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Old Nov 27th, 2018, 20:16   #8
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Apart from the already mentioned, for air con it could be the magnetic clutch on the ac compressor is out of spec? On S70 and V70 it seems to be relatively common. You can check the gap on it with a feeler gauge, if its off a bit it won't engage properly = no cold air. Also the ac driers can rot out which causes a leak obviously.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2018, 12:04   #9
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Failed the CT cos the 'day-run' lights were on?

That sounds odd. I live in France and have had 6 Volvo's all with day-run lights now and its never been an issue when tested.

Good old France eh?

Yes to AC compressor clutches and the gap getting too wide with age. Mine did that on my old 850. Its easy to check. Repairs can be done with shims or with wire.
I did the 'wire' repair on mine following a tutorial on matthewsvolvosite forum.
Worked a treat.
Good luck.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2018, 13:04   #10
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Quote:
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Failed the CT cos the 'day-run' lights were on?

That sounds odd. I live in France and have had 6 Volvo's all with day-run lights now and its never been an issue when tested.

Good old France eh?

Yes to AC compressor clutches and the gap getting too wide with age. Mine did that on my old 850. Its easy to check. Repairs can be done with shims or with wire.
I did the 'wire' repair on mine following a tutorial on matthewsvolvosite forum.
Worked a treat.
Good luck.

Hey Paul,

Yes it failed cause of the new reg... "Intensité lumineuse trop forte".
I did failed also the smog test by just a hair !

I managed to found why my boost gauge wasn't working. The white vacuum line was cut in the middle. I attached it again and it went to life, but the car didn't run well... I accelerated hardly and it unplugged itself just by pressure ( the white vacuum line is attached just by a rubber ), then the car started running better the moment it unplugged !
How could that be ? Meaning my pcv is dead maybe ?
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