D5 (2005 on) Noise and lack of power

[Barnster]

Yes, the tank pump runs for about 15-20 seconds with ignition switched on - relay clicks off.

Series of events this part 10 days or so

Replaced my swirl throttle, injector pipes, injector seals/clamps etc.

Removed throttle housing and diagnosed shredded cog inside.

Reassembled and refitted housing and had the car running but had a leaky no 5 injector.

Replaced the seal again on this one.

Replaced throttle housing with new one

Tried to start engine - discovered no.5 cylinder plug off and cam position sensor plug off - refitted. No joy.

Refitted old throttle - no joy.

[Clan]

take of the injector return pipes on top each injector , crank the engine over and watch , any excessive fuel from one or two injectors indicates a faulty one as the full fuel pressure to start cant build up .. You might be surprised the difference a freshly charged battery makes too , a few more rpm when cranking can make all the difference , or a tow start ..

[Barnster]

Battery fully charged and engine turned over with injector return pipe disconnected from each injector - a negligable amount, if any from the return ports.

Took all return connectors off and there is a lot more fuel coming back through the return pipe so looks like there is pressure in the fuel system.

Tank pump runs as expected and new throttle goes through it's clicking/whining/whistling procedure as before any problems.

Not sure on these engine but when feeling the glow plug at the block there is no evidence of any heat.

Also checked all fuses and none have blown.

Just taken the supply fuel pipes off the injectors - plenty of fuel in them - haven't tried to run with them off for obvious reasons.

From my reasoning, I have fuel, air (checked airway is free) and what else is needed for a diesel to fire? The engine is turning smoothly and at normal starting speed.

Regards

BS

[Anthony S60]

I'll hopefully receive my replacement throttle housing today. But must have knocked my main injector feed pipe at the weekend, as it is leaking.

Is there a torque setting that the new pipe should be tightened to?

I'm hoping mine will start with out the problems you're having Barnster

[Barnster]

Think from memory new pipes need to be torqued to 28Nm. Best to check first though - I'll have a look later when I have time.

My car was taken to the dealers yesterday and will be looked at this morning. Sitting here in anticipation.

Will update when I know more..... unless the problem is due to a schoolboy error by me!.... and then I'll have to think of some less embarassing to report.

[Barnster]

Just had a call from the garage - apparently my soot filter sensor is giving a constant full reading so will need replacing.

Other than that there is nothing wrong with the car and it starts.

They have confirmed that no software or update was required for the new throttle housing but otherwise have not given any information regarding what was stopping the car from starting.

BS

[batchelorm]

Hi I am a new member to this forum & am very greatful for the advice I have read in the last two days.

I picked up my S60 D5 from garage yesterday after having it's cam belt replaced, only to have a note on the invoice saying that the swirl pump arm broken & needed replacing. This was quoted at £270 + VAT.

When I got home I searched the web and came accross this great forum and with a 3mm drill, split pin & washer I have repaired the ball joint at the engine end. A little fiddly but a small proice to pay (better than the best part of £300 notes!).

Many thanks to you all

[NickColeman]

Hello everyone

My 07 plate xc90 D5 (185bhp) has just suffered a detached link rod for the swirl chamber mechanism, three months out of warranty.

Out of interest I enquired at my local dealer about costs of fitting the 'modified later parts' (as mentioned by Clan and a few others). However, the dealer reckons they are already fitted in my vehicle.

If so, the modified parts are subject to the same problem as the old ones!

Seems like the only option that is available to me is a repair using the volvo pin and spring clip.

Have I missed something here?

Any comments gratefully received.

thanks a lot

[Clan]

yes you would have the "modified " type . Your best ideas for a repair would be something metal with a ball joint , some kind of racing carburettor rod and metal ball joint arrangment .. even if it means taking the swirl rod out of the cylinder head to attach the ball to the plastic arm... the volvo pin repair is very poor .

[Anthony S60]

Due to holidays and work I've not been on for quite a while but I changed the valve on the return from the intercooler. (had to buy a new one)
Car works fine now. even the warning message disappeared after a couple of trips.