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Wiring Diagrams

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Old May 29th, 2006, 16:12   #1
ALLOA
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Does anybody have access to 240 wiring diagrams in colour? I recently 'built' the remains of an 'F' reg 240 GLT into my Torslanda. I can start the engine and idle it but should the engine stall it is not east to restart. In addition on firing up the engine does not seem to spark when the ignition is held round at position 4 on the barrel but rather when the key is released and resumes position3 on the barrel. The ignition barrels on the two cars do not appear different but I suspect that I am missing something!

Alternatively any other suggestions welcome!

Thanks and Regards

S
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Old May 30th, 2006, 07:25   #2
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Hi;
This diagram is mostly monochrome, but hopefully it might be of some help. It's the only one I know of that's readily available on the net:
http://www.autoelectric.ru/auto/volv...989/740-89.htm
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Old May 30th, 2006, 08:04   #3
Alec Dawe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLOA
Does anybody have access to 240 wiring diagrams in colour? I recently 'built' the remains of an 'F' reg 240 GLT into my Torslanda. I can start the engine and idle it but should the engine stall it is not east to restart. In addition on firing up the engine does not seem to spark when the ignition is held round at position 4 on the barrel but rather when the key is released and resumes position3 on the barrel. The ignition barrels on the two cars do not appear different but I suspect that I am missing something!

Alternatively any other suggestions welcome!

Thanks and Regards

S
I think I read a thread about somebody with exactly the same problems with the ignition switch on the forums a few weeks ago.
Have a hunt through, and I'm sure you will find it. I seem to remember that some GLT's had a twin supply to the coil (mine seems to have). One at 12v in position 4 for starting, and one through a ballast resistor at 6v for normal running, position 3, the idea being to give a big fat spark for starting. (Its a 6v rated winding, so sort of overboosted for starting), so if the Torslander does NOT have this, you might have to look at bridging somewhere?
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Old May 30th, 2006, 09:45   #4
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Volvo appear to make some subtle wiring changes from year to year. I found this out when using part of a 1989 wiring loom on a 1988 car (both 760 GLE V6s). Car would only start when original loom put back.

Volvo produced separate wiring diagram books for every model for every year. The Owners Club Tecnical Director and Model Registrars hold some of these. If you are a VOC member it could be wortwhile contacting either of them.
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Old May 30th, 2006, 10:17   #5
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I'm thinking ballast resistor here but what year is your Torslanda and what ignigtion system have you got as you do not detail what parts you have fitted. Regards Peter
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Old May 30th, 2006, 11:43   #6
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There are two different Ignition barrels for the 240. The later with a three ganged switch came in with the EZ116K ignition system on the B230Fengine. However they all feed a 12V signal to the coil but the EZ 230F goes via a fuse in the main fuse box. This also feeds the Igntion module. Give me more information. Regards Peter
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Old May 30th, 2006, 15:25   #7
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Guys;

Not sure if all your models are coevred but I've found this site very useful.

http://www.volvotechinfo.com/WD123/

Hope this helps.
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Old May 30th, 2006, 16:56   #8
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I've used the complete loom and engine from the 240 GLT. The Torslanda did have the lamda sond, ECU etc... but all of this has been removed to make way for the GLT loom. This was removed from the donor car starting at the headlights and working back. It was removed through the bulkhead c/w the plate and as far back as the fuse box. The loom from the rear of the car to the front was moved forward likewise (basically everything back to the fusebox.) Fitting into the Torslanda was basically the reverse of all of this. The 'multi' at the back of the ignition barrel is what is concerning me. It can only fit in one position. The ignition switch itself is the original one from the Torslanda.

As mentioned the car will start but not when held round at 4. When the key is released it will start (sometimes) on what appears to be a weak residual spark.

As Alec mentioned it may be that I have to splice a couple of wires together.

If the No 1 plug is removed there is no sparking when the car is being cranked. Only when the key is released to its usual position for operation.

Would any wiring diagrams be intricate enough to distinguish differences between a GLT (mechanical injection) and a Torslanda ( ECU, LAMDA ETC...)



Thanks to all

S
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Old May 30th, 2006, 19:26   #9
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I'LL SHOUT THEN, 'AND THE YEAR OF MANUFACTURER OF THE CARS' ?????

Regards Peter
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Old May 30th, 2006, 20:14   #10
Glen Morangie
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Presumably 'F' reg 240 GLT' would be 88 mod.Yr and Torslanda would be 91 on.
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