Code 1507???? Help!

[1784]

Hi
I have a 2006 xc70, 170 000 miles which was using a lot of oil. When I bought it it had had a new dpf fitted. All evidence seemed to point to turbo oil seals leaking by so I have fitted a new cartridge to the turbo with a friend who is a very capable mechanic.
Car runs great and seems smoother, however, when it gets warm it goes into limp mode and gives code 1507. I understand this is low turbo pressure. It happens when I take my foot off after a bit of acceleration.
Let the car cool a bit and it drives fine without clearing code but soon goes to limp mode again. My instinct is that it's something to do with the turbo actuator not closing once warm, is this likely? Do I neeed to have the new turbo set up in some way?
Thanks for your help, if you can
By the way, vanes were and are completely free moving with the turbo on the bench
Chris

[5cilinder]

First pressurize the intercooler and the piping between the intercooler and turbo to exclude or find leaks there.
If ok , callibrate with vida the vnt motor of the turbo or check if the vnt is properly functioning and connected

[skyship007]

Might be the turbo boost control valve, as they don't last forever, BUT make sure it's not a hose leak (It should hiss if leaking), or just a bad connection to the boost valve solenoid.

If an old turbo diesel burns oil, try moving up one SAE grade. OEM spec for newer Volvo diesels is an 0w30, BUT it should burn a lot less oil if you move upto a major brand 0 or 5w40 full synthetic AND use half a can of Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver every oil change.
Make sure you use the correct Acea spec oil and fingers crossed the owners handbook lists A3/B4 or E3/B4, cos C2 and 3 oils are bad news in anti wear protection terms (Low Zinc ash due to DPF limits). Half a can of LM Ceratec does help if you have to use a C2 or 3 in particular and it is fully approved for use with DPF TDI's.

[1784]

Thank you gents, I'm suspecting the vnt, it sounds like I need Vida or someone with it? I will try the suggestions firsts. I don't suppose anyone has Vida East Yorkshire area that I could get them to set up the vnt?
Chris

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by 1784

I don't suppose anyone has Vida East Yorkshire area that I could get them to set up the vnt?

Do a separate, specific request in the general section.

[The Landshark]

Originally Posted by skyship007

Might be the turbo boost control valve, as they don't last forever, BUT make sure it's not a hose leak (It should hiss if leaking), or just a bad connection to the boost valve solenoid.

If an old turbo diesel burns oil, try moving up one SAE grade. OEM spec for newer Volvo diesels is an 0w30, BUT it should burn a lot less oil if you move upto a major brand 0 or 5w40 full synthetic AND use half a can of Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver every oil change.
Make sure you use the correct Acea spec oil and fingers crossed the owners handbook lists A3/B4 or E3/B4, cos C2 and 3 oils are bad news in anti wear protection terms (Low Zinc ash due to DPF limits). Half a can of LM Ceratec does help if you have to use a C2 or 3 in particular and it is fully approved for use with DPF TDI's.

My '06 lists A5/B5 0w30

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by The Landshark

My '06 lists A5/B5 0w30

The Acea A5/B5 is OK and almost the same as A3/B4. Although it's a fraction better for petrol jobs due to the use of different types of detergent additives (More Magnesium than Calcium). Mg lasts slightly longer than Ca based detergents.

Castrol Edge 0w30 the Volvo approved oil is a high end 30 grade and in SAE terms almost a 40 grade. That viscosity was chosed for fuel economy, not minimum engine wear. Older or higher time (More than 100K miles) engines like thicker oils in summer, so I use an 0 or 5w40 major brand full synthetic.

Shell Ultra 5w40 (They do make a A5/B5 but it's a more expensive 0w40) is probably the cheapest GTL (Gas To Liquids) full synthetic if you buy from a major Fleabay dealer like Opie Oils or Oil Drop.

[5cilinder]

coolant/oil heatexchangers control the oil temperature in a fairly narrow range warmed up summer or winter so the variation in thickness isnt needed that badly
Even if the oil temp is read somewhat higher in the crankcase the heatexchanger brings it back to almost the coolanttemp before it enters the engine again
5w40 is good for summer but also in west europe winters

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

coolant/oil heatexchangers control the oil temperature in a fairly narrow range warmed up summer or winter so the variation in thickness isnt needed that badly
Even if the oil temp is read somewhat higher in the crankcase the heatexchanger brings it back to almost the coolanttemp before it enters the engine again
5w40 is good for summer but also in west europe winters

The main difference in wear occurs during cold starts or when towing a heavy load.

An 0w30 is thinner than an 0w40 when cold, cos the viscosity is given at 2 different oil temps, one a bit hot (100c) and the other (40c) a bit on the warm side, BUT the graph of actual kinematic viscosity vs temperature is a curve and if you feed the figures of any engine oil into a Widemans viscosity plotter program (Very easy to use) and then look up the 0c cold start viscosity, the 0w30 is a lot thinner than an 0w40.

The difference at 100c is also significant (SAE 30 vs 40), BUT Volvo recommend the use of a full synthetic 15w40 for hot desert operations. That's cos a 15w40 is in fact slightly thicker at high oil temps AND a full synthetic lasts slightly longer.
Alas only Amsoil make a 15w40 truck oil and it's not cheap. If you use GTX 15w40 in summer (Or driving around in death valley in winter), it should be changed every 3000 miles max, like what US Iffylube shops recommend.

[5cilinder]

I wasnt talking about the cold flowing , only hot oil
I trade off the marginally thicker oil when cold (not siberia either) for better load under heat protection. to much hassle 2 times a year oilchanging
The 5w40 is also better sticking to metal when cold than a 0w30 so there is in fact better lubrication the very first cranks