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Old Feb 10th, 2019, 20:42   #11
cheshired5
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I would say that the failed balljoint boot is an instant MOT fail and renders the car unsafe to drive.
If anything happens and you've knowingly driven with the defect, things could get messy so I'd replace the ball joints immediately before using the car again.
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Old Feb 10th, 2019, 20:48   #12
ThomasG
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Entrophy

It looks like she`s still on original shocks
posiibly still on original subframe bushes.

all was fine for quite a while, but in last 2 years i can see regress..
ride is becoming.. less stable
occasional creaks when im in a tight turn, doesnt take uneven road (think patched up tarmac, manholes etc) too nicely.

i`d happily wait until something breaks, but unfortunately i cannot afford unexpected interruption in car use
i`d much rather have expected one, one that was planned for and ii`m prepared for..
call it- preventative maintenance. looong overdue one, too

also- i dont really want to change one part at a time- if i`m undoing ball jionts, i can in same time change these (presumably worn) shocks, droplinks etc, no?

thing is- its ugly expensive in London
today i was walking by qwikfit. not that i`d use them anyway, but i had opportunity so i asked the question..
£800+ parts is not what i wanted to hear
especially if i know a garage that i can work myself, alongside mechanic, on my car, garage that will (and did) lend me their car if i need to pop out for parts.. garage that charged me around £30 in labour for changing CV joint (opposite side than this ball jiont on photos), plus inner cv jiont gaiter, and additional £20 for 3D 4-wheel alignment.

that garage is 1300 miles from here, and next time i`m in that area will be end of July.
but if i have to do it all on my drive- i will.

I wonder when will i decide that enough is enough, and its time to stop pumping money into her
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Old Feb 10th, 2019, 21:35   #13
MarvinMitt
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800£ is way too much for parts alone.
parts cost for me rounded to the more expensive side of 10's:

struts + springs 200£ (Bilstein and Lesjöfors)
top mounts 40£ (Lemförder)
wishbone bushings 50£ (Lemförder)
subframe bushings 60£ (Meyle and Febi)
ball joints 40£ (Lemförder)
drop links 40£ (Lemförder)
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Old Feb 10th, 2019, 21:59   #14
ThomasG
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No,no..

Kwikfit quoted £800 LABOUR, plus parts on top

Your parts price breakdown is roughly what I expect. But £800 labour is a no-no..
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Old Feb 10th, 2019, 22:12   #15
Black dog
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I didn't mean drive it until it falls off I just mean replacing it when it suits its not urgent. As for pumping money into it that's all you will ever be doing replacing parts for the sake of it when you are in there. 30 minits for ball joint on a dry day and off you go. I've 236k on my origenal shocks. Still fine. Never had to change volvo subframe bushes ever. Had to do plenty of wishbone bushes though. If its not broken don't try to convince yourself it is
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Old Feb 10th, 2019, 22:42   #16
ThomasG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black dog View Post
I didn't mean drive it until it falls off I just mean replacing it when it suits its not urgent. As for pumping money into it that's all you will ever be doing replacing parts for the sake of it when you are in there. 30 minits for ball joint on a dry day and off you go. I've 236k on my origenal shocks. Still fine. Never had to change volvo subframe bushes ever. Had to do plenty of wishbone bushes though. If its not broken don't try to convince yourself it is
Actually i was just thinking about asking how long these subframe bushes last
so.. maybe theres no need at all..

me thinks ill get these ball joints done asap- that is next weekend, weather permitting

and then i will give myself few months to think: do i want to do the rest..

btw..

two things that ..

well.. i feel uneasy about one and literally scared of another

uneasy one: taking hubs out (i understand detaching them from shock)
something tells me that i`d loose camber setting on it. i`d rather avoid trip for traction if i can.

second..
i cant logically explain..
i dont trust any axle stands
they all look too soft for me, i`m literally afraid to crawl underneath and forget about me exerting any bigger force on any spanner when i`m underneath..
somehow i feel safer with few concrete blocks and a wooden board between these and the car..
and even then uneasy..
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 00:55   #17
Black dog
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3 tonne axle stands (commercial) are way better. If uneasy I'd tend to place both wheels under the side your working on (much safer than blocks) no need to take strut off shock but you can if you wish. If you don't still be sure to remove the drive bolt and push the drive well back into the hub at all times. If the inner cv joint pulls apart you're in for a big headache.
If you do wish to take hub off disconnect the abs sensor at the plug end and take sensor and wire with the hub, as said above the sensors don't come out of the hub very well.
Lastly you won't loose the camber there not adjustable, however you will need wheel alignment as changing the ball joint will have a small effect on it.

To do the quick way It's literally wheel off 3 bolts one nut and pry apart! But watch for the drive shaft I've been there!
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 12:15   #18
ThomasG
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So I'm guessing this is what awaits me, in the long run..
https://youtu.be/0CMQQvPpcus
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 17:31   #19
MarvinMitt
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Wow, 800£ gives a good price per hour

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black dog View Post
Lastly you won't loose the camber there not adjustable, however you will need wheel alignment as changing the ball joint will have a small effect on it.
Not correct. The bolt holes in the absorbers have plenty of play to adjust for camber.
If you plan to change the balljoint only, then the safest, simplest and Volvo workshop way of disassembling the balljoint is using ratchet straps around both control arms and pull it/them down with it.
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Old Feb 11th, 2019, 18:58   #20
ThomasG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarvinMitt View Post
Wow, 800£ gives a good price per hour



Not correct. The bolt holes in the absorbers have plenty of play to adjust for camber.
If you plan to change the balljoint only, then the safest, simplest and Volvo workshop way of disassembling the balljoint is using ratchet straps around both control arms and pull it/them down with it.
Cheshired5 (SirRobb) way then

Yes- i think i`ll set it up on the drive, 2 concrete blocks+timber on each side, and start tapping it out and then back in

maybe on Saturday.. maybe Sunday..
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