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D5 engine starting on 4 cylinders

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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 18:53   #11
cheshired5
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Originally Posted by 5cilinder View Post
Normally its a bad idea , but you can seal it of with the injector itself and just remove the electrical solenoid connector from that injector
This is fascinating.
My starting fault came from a badly leaking injector reducing the rail pressure.
Whilst waiting for the replacement to arrive, I had to resort to the dreaded Easy Start for cold starts.
If I read your comment right 5cilinder, could I have not used the Easy Start and instead electrically disconnected my faulty injector just to get the car started?
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 19:23   #12
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Disconnecting an injector electrical connector would not seal the injector. When injectors have excessive leak back dropping rail pressure it is because it is mechanically internally damaged as the upper bleed chamber valve seat has worn and can no longer keep back pressure.

During a refurbishment it is one of the internal components that are changed.
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 19:32   #13
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True
But if it cannot hold the pressure within tollerance you have youre faulty injector pointed out
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 19:39   #14
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Sorry don't follow, grateful if you could explain.
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 22:48   #15
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Originally Posted by Bernard333 View Post
Does anyone know if a Euro 3 D5 engine will start easily on 4 cylinders rather than 5 ? I am planning to use a common rail outlet nut with a copper blanking plate to seal off the outlet to the suspect injector which I think may be causing the rail to lose pressure and prevent the engine starting. A cranking leak off test has not shown conclusively if its an injector and this seems easier than swopping the injector.
I've done a similar test on a 4HK Isuzu with conclusive results. It had refused to start due to an injector being mechanically stuck open, not allowing startup rail pressure to be generated. I sourced an old injector pipe, cut it in half then beat the grannys out of it with a hammer over a vice until the end of it (about 20mm) was flat (common rail injector pipes are very tough cookies).
I then screwed it back on each injector outlet from the rail one at a time until I hit the faulty one. It then started on 3 cylinders obviously detecting fault with the one that was capped off.
There is a electronic injector test that can be performed on their engines but it only allows for the injector to be shut off electrically then measures the upped workload of the remaining injectors to sustain a given idle speed. It was no good for a stuck injector nozzle. Which was by the way caused by water in fuel.
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Old Jan 21st, 2014, 01:20   #16
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. It was no good for a stuck injector nozzle. Which was by the way caused by water in fuel.
Interesting to see that comment , on the old car (2002 Citroen diesel) I got my donor parts off I removed the electrical solenoid part from an injector by undoing the large nut and inside there was a small propeller type part which had gone rusty due to water getting in, the main pipes were still pressurised when I removed the nut and there was diesel in the top of the injector so I assume the corrosion had happened due to a prolonged period of getting water into the fuel system during the working life of the car. The inside of an injector would be the last place I would have expected to see substantial corrosion and bits of rust floating about. It was a Bosch type 2 injector looking very similar to those fitted to a D5 so makes me wonder how much life remains in the old injectors scrapyards sell for £ 25 a peice and how much water is in the fuel every time we fill up.
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Old Jan 21st, 2014, 07:56   #17
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You get your water in your fuel due to variable temperatures in a half empty tank wich can not hold due to the evaporationpressure all the moisture in the colder air
Almost all of that water condenses and remains in the tank while tankdesign calculates that in
But avoid driving your tank empty and risk if the waterbuildup is to much to suck it in also the intankpump needs the cooling and lubrication of a bit of fuellevel
I inspected once the fueltank with a small flexible camera and you could see big "bubles" of water in the tank
Some other tiny bits of water could be trapped in the fuelfilter but i think the flowspeed is to high to let it settle all if there is water sucked in

Last edited by 5cilinder; Jan 21st, 2014 at 07:58.
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