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Fuel filter headache

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Old Aug 21st, 2019, 00:51   #1
Stu T5-R
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Default Fuel filter headache

Hi,

I've recently bought a 2011 V50 1.6 D2 Drive and decided to give it a service. All gone well until the fuel filter replacement. I bought the recommended Bosch F 026 402 864 from Eurocarparts and set about changing it. The filter I've taken out of the car is marked as a Crosland F30499. The Bosch filter won't fit into the car. The top end is the same, but the drain nipple on the bottom has a small ridge on it rather than being a straight pipe, it also has a plastic bit around it straight out of the box (I don't mean the dust cover). Also the indentation on the side of the housing appears to be slightly further around than the one I've taken out of the car.

So I headed off to Halfords this evening and they have sold me a Crosland F30500, its what they think it should have and the only one they had in stock.

The F30500 appears to be exactly the same as the F30499. Also it states on the box that its compatible with/or a replacement for the Bosch which I've already bought (and doesn't fit).

So questions are are:-

1) is the F30499 I've taken off the car the right one or has someone fudged it in in the past?
2) why does the F30500 state is it compatible with the Bosch F 026 402 864 when the latter doesn't fit my car.
3) is the F30500 an upgrade to the F30549?

It ridiculously confusing
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Old Aug 21st, 2019, 18:25   #2
T5R92011
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Default

Can't answer your question unfortunately though I will say that when using Eurocarparts, I will actually buy all variations of the most obvious filter for the car, then compare them after removing the old filter.

Then get a refund on the ones that didn't match. Saves you having to stop midway through the job, though appreciate diesel fuel filters are expensive.

Sometimes you just can't tell if its the right one until you physically disconnect the old filter as some look identical apart from the very end of the connector.

I serviced a Nissan NV200 1.5DCI recently that had four variations of diesel fuel filter depending on A) model year and B) country of assembly and C) with or without a water sensor.

I tried to find the exact one beforehand which involved studying the model information on wikipedia to find out which year manufacturing switched from one factory to another, as my model was right on the year of cutover.

Probably should have just called a Nissan dealer.
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Old Aug 21st, 2019, 18:31   #3
cheshired5
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It ridiculously confusing
If you use your chassis number in Vida to obtain the genuine Volvo part number, you can then either buy genuine or use the number to accurately cross reference all of the aftermarket equivalents.

Vida makes things virtually foolproof and avoids you being at the mercy of generic parts compatibility search engines.

If you don't have Vida (why?) then for filters, the search tool in the Mann filters online catalogue is excellent.
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Old Aug 21st, 2019, 21:32   #4
Stu T5-R
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Thanks for the replies. Update is that I went back to Euro today and they've swapped the Bosch for a Mann which looks like the one I've taken off the car. I've managed to fit it tonight, but.....classic.....can't get it to start. Ive' got diesel coming out of the return pipe at the top of the filter housing with a hand pump....eventually, needed to connect a vacuum for a while first. Anyhow, every time I reconnect the line to the injectors and try to start it won't start.

I've read about disconnecting and pumping at the return line after the fuel rail, so I've try that tomorrow.....its started raining and I've had enough of diesel fumes for one night.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2019, 12:02   #5
Clan
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Originally Posted by Stu T5-R View Post
Hi,

I've recently bought a 2011 V50 1.6 D2 Drive and decided to give it a service. All gone well until the fuel filter replacement. I bought the recommended Bosch F 026 402 864 from Eurocarparts and set about changing it. The filter I've taken out of the car is marked as a Crosland F30499. The Bosch filter won't fit into the car. The top end is the same, but the drain nipple on the bottom has a small ridge on it rather than being a straight pipe, it also has a plastic bit around it straight out of the box (I don't mean the dust cover). Also the indentation on the side of the housing appears to be slightly further around than the one I've taken out of the car.

So I headed off to Halfords this evening and they have sold me a Crosland F30500, its what they think it should have and the only one they had in stock.

The F30500 appears to be exactly the same as the F30499. Also it states on the box that its compatible with/or a replacement for the Bosch which I've already bought (and doesn't fit).

So questions are are:-

1) is the F30499 I've taken off the car the right one or has someone fudged it in in the past?
2) why does the F30500 state is it compatible with the Bosch F 026 402 864 when the latter doesn't fit my car.
3) is the F30500 an upgrade to the F30549?

It ridiculously confusing
Always buy a genuine volvo fuel filter they have high capacity elements you won't get anywhere else , otherwise you will find the filter blocking prematurely causing loss of power and engine light on .. Make life easy for yourself :-)
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Old Aug 22nd, 2019, 13:05   #6
cheshired5
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I've read about disconnecting and pumping at the return line after the fuel rail
Yes I've uploaded a picture on here a few times and that's the only way you ever need to use as it's so straightforward.

Either suck the fuel through the return using a bleeding bulb or vacuum tester or leave the pipe open and crank the engine until a steady stream of fuel comes through.

Every other fuel connection must be done up and left well alone.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2019, 22:21   #7
Stu T5-R
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The conclusion to my bleeding filter problems.....

I wish I could upload a photo, but I don't know how to do it. Essentially I disconnected the pipe back to the tank as suggested, i.e. the one after the tee piece from the bleed back from the injectors/the fuel filter/ and somewhere else on the engine - what is that other feed to/from?. I used a hand pump (bulb) for ages on here, and nothing....note the pipe that fits the fitting at the filter head doesn't fit here - its too big/loose. I used a couple of cables ties on the pipe to get a better seal. The pump seemed to be struggling, it took a good few seconds for the bulb to return to original size each pump. Made me think that most of the air flow in was probably from leaks.

So I left the pipe, and bulb connected running to a bucket and cranked the engine. It started almost straight away and fuel came flowing up the line reasonably quickly. So I turned the engine off again almost straight away, reconnected and started it again. Went for a 10 minute drive, all seems well, no leaks either (so far).

So my bottom line is agreeing that pumping at the top of the filter housing appears to be useless, and pumping slightly further down the line equally. However the filter end was really easy to pump, whereas just 8" further down apparently the same line it was really difficult - why was that? Of course it could be that the first method was just about to crack it before I swapped.

Also worth mentioning is that I was getting frustrated with the hand bulb, so the vacuum cleaner in eyes shot kept calling to be. I sucked the end of the clear pipe on the hand pump with the vacuum cleaner - loosely sealing with my hand. at the top of the filter housing this did pull fuel into the start of the line reasonably quickly on a number of occasions, but no start after. When I did something similar down behind the fuel rail it also wasn't pulling anything through. There must be a difference in sucking there as oppose to breaking the back pressure to the tank.

Since that return line is only a return line to the tank I wonder whether simply leaving everything connected but taking the fuel cap off would also sufficiently break the back pressure in that line? Maybe I'll try that next time.....or a mechanic!
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