U.S. Build P1800. LS1 (V8) 5-Speed, Flush Mount Glass Kit

[tdz840]

Love the headlights, bonnet, grill, roof and side glass. The rear looks good.
The front bumpers dont seem to gel with the lower half. I think its the air dam which seems to conflict with the lines of the car. Perhaps if the side and indicator lights were blanked and smoothed and the lights relocated within the head light recess?
What about small bumpers similar to the 250GTE Lusso, or perhaps the small quarter bumpers fitted to the 275 GTB??
Russ

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I have been working on the differences between the P1800 and the 122
Crossmembers, and it is taken care of.. The Crossmember and Suspension System
work in both application, while actually improving the 122's rigidity...

The p1800 uses brackets at the rear of the Crossmember that Cup the frame, then
has two pin bolts that run horizontally through the frame for attachment, which
causes the subframe to squeeze the side rails of the unibody frame work. But the
122 only have a tab mount that fits on the bottom of the unibody frame, with two
bolts that run vertically into threaded holes at the bottom of the unibody frame
rail.. The P1800 designed crossmember will fit the 122, and all I have to do is
add the rear mouting tab. The rear mounting tab will not affect the P1800
mounting system for the rear at all, so the frames will work in both cars..
Infact, the extra mounting for the 122, will help stiffen the suspension if you
wanted to drill out holes to run the Horizontal Pin Bolts that the P1800 uses.
You then would have a more rigid mount, because of more mounting points, and the
P1800 mounting plates extend further back and squeeze the outer unibody frame
rails.. The Unibody Frame work is the same between the P1800 and 122, so there
are no issues at all...


I will be installing this system in my 67 Amazon, so there will be pictures to
show how easy it is. I will also have an original motor installed on the
crossmember, because there will be motor mount stands available for the Factory
engine mounting.

The pictures above are of the mock up unit, it will be cleaned up and finished
out by a Suspension/Crossmember manufacturer.. But these give you an idea of
what it is, how much it opens the underhood area, and the stance possible.
There will be a supplimental kit for rear coil spring removal, and an Adjustable
Coil Over Retro-fit

[Colonel Froth]

It's the transition from the body to the skirt that I'm not set on, everything else looks great. I can't help thinking that the bodywork actually needs bending out below the level of the indicator hump so that it transitions into the skirt more, instead of dipping in like a tight waistband.

I just fiddled the one side on this pic to show what I mean. Easier with a mouse... I know

[tdz840]

That looks better buy still think there are too many converging lines.
I think the bumper is adding too dramatic a statement; almost as if the car finishes from the dam below and the body work above. Rather than the whole design flowing into each.
What about a small lip spoiler as in the corvair pic within the link?
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/201...-part-3-finale
Sort of similar to the TR6 chin spoiler but I think in metal, painted the same colour and small so the eye isnt drawn to it as much could work.
Its not far off and for me the only part that doesnt work as well as the other elements of your design
Russ

[Colonel Froth]

A wee chin spoiler like on the Corvair, here's a wonky version, I blame the small image size for being difficult to edit, not the fact that I learnt my 'shop skills from this guy.

[tdz840]

With quarter bumpers aka escort mexico but etype thin

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I have had guys who are unfamilar with the P1800 asking for pictures that give size compared to other vehicles.. Here is the best that I can do, a couple with a 72 Olds Cutlass Convertible, and a couple of others with one of my motorcycle projects..

The Drivers Side Air Dam blend looks good in these pictures, but others it doesnt.. These wheels are out a bit too far in the front, because I have 1.5 inch adapter that change the bolt pattern for these wheels. I think the 19x8.5 will work great for the front and the 19 or 20x10 for the rear..

[tdz840]

The back looks great!
The more I look at it the more I think you should remove the bumpers front and back. Maybe just a semblance of bumper aka Ferrari 250 Lusso which has a transition piece just under the headlights. Almost like a nerf bar
With the glass in and painted will look spectacular
Russ

[Brickhouse858]

For me, I like the front with the horns. A bit smaller/skinnier maybe so the rear vet type and front appear similar if not in direct shape. For the air dam: The front of these are flowing. No hard lines/cuts. For me, my eyes keep going to the transition from old to new area. Maybe flowing (slightly bent/curved) the transition would work better? Like it is all one piece? That way the sides can transition right into the wheel arches.

[Mrjup]

Hi, I so agree with bh858. The whole care is awash with beautiful curves and the airdam is just too angular. To my mind the proportion doesnt gel. Does it need an airdam?
You have done a brilliant job there. Thanks for all the instalments and I love all the descriptions, the longer the better. Thanks.
Jup