740 Rear Wheel Bearings

[panda529e699]

Hello.

I recently fitted new front brake shields, callipers and discs, and wheel bearings.
I would like to do the same to the rear, I have got the discs and shields, but I cant find much info on fitting the wheel bearings, is this something that could be done or would it be a garage job. Its in the bodyshop again, as I noticed some rust on the drivers side sill. Many thanks

Andrew

[lynns hubby]

Not done one on a 7 or 9 series but have done one on a 2 series and would expect it to be similar if not the same.
Rear wheel bearings are more difficult than the fronts. The bearing mounts on the half shaft just behind the hub so obviously you will need to get the half shafts out. Removing the old bearings is your first issue as you wont have a puller long enough. You can try thin wedges between the bearing and hub if you are in luck. If not then go for it with a grinder. A Dremel or similar would be good but I didn't have one so just carefully cut the outer race and removed it before carefully going for the inner. Cut at an angle till you are almost through then split it with a chisel. Don't use a good chisel as it will wreck it as the race is harder than the chisel.
Next the fun bit. Put the half shaft in the freezer (chest freezer) for a couple of hours. After a couple of hours, start to warm up the new bearing, I used a heat gun but an old chip pan is better (most people wont have one).
When you are happy the new bearing is warm enough, remove the half shaft from the freezer and slide the hot bearing down the shaft.I used a clean piece of scaffold tube, longer than the shaft to ensure the bearing was "home".
You will hear from the "note" when its home.
As you will see, this is not for the faint hearted.
Because of the difference in temperatures, the bearing should slide into place. Just be careful not to **** it

[Laird Scooby]

As has been pointed out, it's not an easy job! I've never done one because it's best to remove the back axle, access is much easier that way but it leaves you without transport.

While it's out you may as well renew the diff bearings too but that means being able to check the pinon bearing pre-load accurately, not to mention having a press to remove the bearings and refit them.

Short conclusion - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! If it is broke, find a lower mileage back axle in good condition and fit that instead. Then if you feel really enthusiastic, pull the old one apart, assess the condition of the diff gears and then deicde whether to rebuild it or not.

[panda529e699]

Thanks for both replies, it seems a bit too much for me to tackle, once it's started it's one of those point of no return jobs I suppose. Was thinking that to replace the rear disc shields won't require removal of the bearing, will have a look when I get it back, have got new discs and calipers so thought I would see what the handbrake shoes are like as well. Thanks

[Ian21401]

Do you really need to replace the rear wheel bearings?.
I renewed the brake back plates on my 940 recently. I had originally intended removing the half shafts to do this but could not remove them easily so gave up as, so far as I was aware, the bearings and oil seals were OK and I did not wish to create a new problem. So I cheated by cutting the back plates and wangling them over the hubs.
I'm now going to try and link to the relevant thread. Never done it before so here goes, might lose everything.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=297973&page=3

That might be the thread I mean. I'll have a look.

Seems to have worked.
Thanks Dave and bob12 for the how to's. I'll think that I will have to consult your instructions each time I need to do this.
Now I'm going to try and find Dave's instructions how to attach images/pictures. I wrote them down somewhere.

[panda529e699]

The bearings are ok, it was the back plate you mentioned I wanted to change, I will leave the bearings alone. I thought was just not sure on the process for fitting the back plate, it will probably be more obvious when I look at it and can perhaps explain better, thanks

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by panda529e699

Thanks for both replies, it seems a bit too much for me to tackle, once it's started it's one of those point of no return jobs I suppose. Was thinking that to replace the rear disc shields won't require removal of the bearing, will have a look when I get it back, have got new discs and calipers so thought I would see what the handbrake shoes are like as well. Thanks

Sounds like a sensible choice! To be able to get to the bolts to remove the shields, you need to remove the handbrake shoes :



Yes, you can just about get to those bolts using the access hole in the hub, an extension and a 14mm socket (preferably a 6-sided one, there was threadlock on mine) but it's much easier with the shoes out of the way.

You'll know if the rear wheel bearings are going, they make this sort of noise!

https://youtu.be/UKHBvL67I74

The diff was making more noise than the two wheel bearings combined!
That was why i changed the back axle.

As it has to come out and go back in to do the job, one out and another better one in is a better way of doing it in my book, then if you waqnt/need to repair the other one, you have plenty of time to do it!

The linky-linky thing worked Ian!

Now if someone would be kind enough to remind me how to make a link that looks like this that can be clicked (that one can't, i just changed the ink colour! ) i'd be very grateful please!

[Ian21401]

Andrew,
Once you have the disc/drum off and the parking brake shoes removed you should see that the the parking brake "expander" is contained within a steel lump known as an "anchor". IIRC it was necessary to remove the clevis pin from the expander and disassemble it so that it was possible to ease it back through and out of the anchor. The anchor is secured to the hub by two flange screws (part no. VO985048) that pass through the back plate so sandwiching the back plate. Having removed the anchor and the retaining plate (the bolts of which also retain the parking brake shoe retaining clips) the back plate will now be loose but cannot be removed because of the wheel hub. Having decided to cut the new back plates to fit them I used a mini angle grinder to cut the old back plate horizontally from the cut out for the caliper through the centre of the hole for the parking brake cable and on to the centre. I suggest that you attempt to remove the old back plate by splaying the upper part above the cut one way and the lower part the other way to manoeuvre it over the hub in a similar fashion to how you will splay the new plate to fit it. It wasn't easy and patience was required but I got there in the end. You will find that it is necessary to splay the back plate quite a lot, just be careful not to actually cause a crease in it. Once it is on the bolts through the retaining plate and the anchor should straighten it and hold everything in place. Don't forget to refit the brake shoe clips when refitting the retaining plate.
Good luck.

Dave, I still haven’t mastered the image uploading yet.

[c1800]

Originally Posted by panda529e699

Thanks for both replies, it seems a bit too much for me to tackle, once it's started it's one of those point of no return jobs I suppose. Was thinking that to replace the rear disc shields won't require removal of the bearing, will have a look when I get it back, have got new discs and calipers so thought I would see what the handbrake shoes are like as well. Thanks

I removed my axles, took them to a qualified repair shop with the new bearings in the package and they installed them for $60.

Reinstalled axles with new seals and all is good.