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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars

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Just bought a 96 940 - First Jobs

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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 09:02   #1
Thejdizzler
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Smile Just bought a 96 940 - First Jobs

I have just bought a 96 940 estate. Thanks to a fellow forum member car is great on first impressions. It has done 140K but only 50K in the last 11 years. The car was serviced regularly until 100,000 miles but only once since then. The timing belt was changed 40,000 miles ago.

I am going to book her in for a service and new cam belt. Also on full lock there is a ‘bouncing’ back and forth of the steering wheel and a noise, I am thinking this could be a CV joint so I will get the garage to look at that as well.

Is there anything else mechanical I should be looking at as a general health check?

Once these things are sorted I will be looking to make a few changes, egg crate grill, clear indicators and a MBC for starters.

I’ll post some pics of the old girl over the weekend.

Thanks in advance!
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 09:05   #2
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Well done. What Turbo did you go for in the end ?

Make sure to get all the front oil seals done when they are doing the cambelt

Enjoy
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 09:32   #3
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[QUOTE=Thejdizzler;2555715

Also on full lock there is a ‘bouncing’ back and forth of the steering wheel and a noise, I am thinking this could be a CV joint so I will get the garage to look at that as well.



Thanks in advance![/QUOTE]

I doubr it's a CV joint as the 900-series are RWD and CV joints usually appear on front-wheel-drive transmissions. It's more likey to be a track-rod end or other steering/suspension component.
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 09:51   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thejdizzler View Post
Also on full lock there is a ‘bouncing’ back and forth of the steering wheel and a noise, I am thinking this could be a CV joint so I will get the garage to look at that as well.

Is there anything else mechanical I should be looking at as a general health check?
Please don't ask your garage to look at the CV joints. They will rip the bejesus out of you either emotionally or financially, possibly both. It doesn't have any. It's RWD with a live axle. Much better idea to get them to check/inspect/possibly replace the spaceship bushes, bottom ball joints and wheel alignment.

It may not eliminate the skipping totally as the turning circle is so tight, outside influences can cause it such as uneven ground. Also worth checking the PAS fluid level and tightness of the PAS belt.

As for general health, invest in a couple of cans of carb & air intake cleaner. With the engine cold, remove the hose to the AICV and spray inside.Switch the ignition on (don't start it, just switch the igniton to position 2 - warning lights on the dash) and spray carb cleaner into the AICV again. Switch the ignition off.

Remove the air intake trunking from the throttle body. Spray more carb cleaner round the throttle butterfly, opening the throttle by hand at the same time.

Do NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, alter the throttle stop screw!!!!

Find the flame-trap. Preferably renew it but if not, remove it and clean it internally (it clips together) with carb cleaner. Follow the hoses from it and ensure the manifold stub is clear and clean with the carb cleaner.Also give a good spray into the oil separator. Renew or clean the oil filler cap by removing and spraying carb cleaner into the top stub.

Note that both the flame trap and oil filler cap are service items so shouldn't be too bad if it's been serviced properly. Checking their condition will give you an idea whether it's had proper servicing or just the basics.

Also check the air filter for cleanliness and renew if needed.

Finally after doing all this, remove fuse #1 for a minimum of 30 seconds then refit.

Congrats on your purchase and enjoy!
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 09:51   #5
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It’s a LPT. I would have been happy with either but getting an LPT with low mileage seems like a great base to build on.

If it is a track rod on the front end, I am assuming it’s not a major repair? The steering seems fine other than full lock.
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 09:54   #6
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It’s a LPT. I would have been happy with either but getting an LPT with low mileage seems like a great base to build on.

If it is a track rod on the front end, I am assuming it’s not a major repair? The steering seems fine other than full lock.
See my post above! Doubtful it's a track rod end but possible. You'd feel a track rod end through the steering anyway, it would wander and feel vague with a slight notchiness.
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 10:19   #7
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One of the tyres is badly worn and needs replacing, could this be the cause of the steering issue?
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 10:30   #8
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One of the tyres is badly worn and needs replacing, could this be the cause of the steering issue?
See my post above!
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 21:25   #9
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A good car. I have the same a 1996 940 LPT SE that's covered 200,000. Doesn't give any problems and is nice to drive, mine is an auto which I prefer over my lexus IS 220D.

My passenger front tyre is worn on the outer edge and doesn't skip on full lock. Going to replace the droplinks? Rod with bush either end, as cracking and fit new front tyres as non matching.

Looking forward to pictures.

Hope it serves you for many years.

James.
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 21:41   #10
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Congrats on the purchase.

I only use and sell genuine Volvo belts as price wise they are the same as aftermarket (sometimes even cheaper) and you know it is right.

Oil filter go Volvo or Mann

Due to age I would suggest new gearbox and diff oil

Get teh brake fluid flushed out with new fluid

Ignition - new plugs leads cap and rotor. Volvo or Bougicord for the leads
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