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XC90 2nd Hand Buy/ Query

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Old Sep 28th, 2019, 09:26   #11
WrathOfKain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tannaton View Post
Generally on this forum we don’t bore each other by letting everyone know our car started this morning for the 654th day in a row, so you will generally read about people having problems...

Anyhow it’s all been said, the oil leak might be a concern but the rest is routine for any car of that age really.

I would ask why you are travelling so far - with eBay and autotrader it’s not usually hard to find a choice of cars. They won’t be a bus ride away but probably not a flight....?
Yes I appreciate that .... the same as any other car forum to be fair.

Yes the oil leak is my obvious concern. Just trying to work out if i can guide this clickmechanic (Unfortunately i am not great/ confident with cars).

I live on the Scottish Highlands .... the choice north of the border since i have been looking has been pretty poor .... bordering on non existent .... you guys bearing south have far more choice so unfortunately it will likely be a flight and a drive back

If you could give me a few lines what to relate to the clickmechanic would be most appreciated.
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Old Sep 28th, 2019, 09:33   #12
WrathOfKain
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Originally Posted by XC90Mk1 View Post
My 2012 was bought with 68k and is now on close to 100k with only a £400 repair that Volvo did under warranty. Everything else has been routine servicing.

Be under no illusion however that you are buying what was close to a 40k car, large and heavy with a fair amount of power.

If the thought of a 1 or 2 grand bill bothers you then I would not entertain one of these vehicles.
Yeah tbh I would rather not embrace a 1 or 2 k bill off the bat right now hence why i am trying to do a bit of research first. I dont mind the usual year to year of a few hundred ..... hey can I have your car
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Old Sep 28th, 2019, 10:06   #13
WrathOfKain
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And thanks gents .... really appreciate any info you can give ...... I will be using your technical knowledge and wisdom to guide my hand on this.

I noted the clickmechanic has a "diagnostic" option so thinking if i can get them to do a few key tasks that you guys can recommend and then he does the full inspection check below then maybe i have given myself a decent chance?


Includes:
143-point mechanical and structural inspection
Road test
Vehicle report emailed to you
Full interior, bodywork and paint inspection
Free phone consultation with the mechanic afterwards
Vehicle raised to conduct more thorough inspections
Plug-in diagnostic check
Photos included in the report
View our checklist
Interior compartment
Door locking
Boot/tailgate lock
Door seals & hinges
Interior sills
Illuminating lights
Seat upholstery
Seat mechanism (front seats)
Steering wheel adjustment
Rear view mirror condition
Cigarette lighter
Headlining
Visors
Carpets
Sunroof condition
Rear parcel shelf
Rear luggage area condition
Tool kit
Electrical/controls
Headlights
Side light/running lights
Indicators/hazard lights
Rear lights/number plate lights
Stop lights
Reverse/fog lights
Auxiliary lights
Panel lights
Switches/controls (Condition & Operation)
Instrument/controls function
Horn
Windows/sunroof operation
Wipers/washers
Headlamp washer/headlamp wiper
Electric/manual mirrors operation
CD / Radio operation
Battery voltage
Road test
Starting system/ignition lock
Warning lights
Cold starting
Fast idle (cold)
Noise level (cold)
Excess fumes/smoke
Engine - noise level
Engine - general performance
Overheating evidence
Turbo/super charger operation & noise
Battery charging system
Hand/parking brake operation
Footbrake operation
Gearbox operation/noise level
Clutch operation
Accelerator Pedal Operation
Instrument/controls function
General steering/handling
Road holding/stability
Suspension noise
Cruise control
Steering wheel alignment
Steering effort
Four wheel drive operation
Suspension ride height level operation
Air con operation
Final drive operation/noise level
Engine compartment
Bonnet catch
Bonnet hinges
General cleanliness of engine bay
Coolant/antifreeze level
Coolant leaks
Radiator / expansion bottle cap
Hoses/pipes
Engine oil level
Drive belts (visible damage)
Water pump operation
Power steering fluid level
Clutch fluid level
Brake fluid level
Engine mountings
Fuel Injection Leak Off Pipe Condition (if visible)
External leaks
Wheels and tyres
Front right tyre
Front left tyre
Rear right tyre
Rear left tyre
Spare wheel condition
Alloy wheel condition (if applicable)
Body exterior
Glass
Door locks/operation
Fuel filler cover/petrol cap
Body damage
Past repairs evident
Corrosion
Paint work
Bumper & number plates
Mud flaps
Front suspension, brakes & steering
Wheels hubs/bearings
Discs/pads (visual check)
Brake pipes/hoses (where visible)
Road springs
Shock absorbers (condition/leaks)
Bump stops/gaiters
Suspension arms/mountings
Suspension arms/fixings
Tie bars/anti roll bars
Location rod/fixings
Bushes
Steering joints/ball joints
Steering rack
Power steering
Rear suspension & brakes
Wheels hubs/bearings
Discs/pads (visual check)
Brake pipes/hoses (if visible)
Road springs
Shock absorbers (condition/leaks)
Bump stops/gaiters
Suspension arms/mountings
Suspension arms/fixings
Tie bars/anti roll bars
Bushes
Brake hydraulics
Master cylinder security (if accessible)
Fluid leaks
Servo/power system
Flexible hoses
Pipes/connections
Clutch and transmission
Fluid/oil leaks
Hydraulic system
Linkage wear (manual)
Casings
Mountings
Drive shaft assemblies
Sliding joints (if visible)
Slave cylinder gaiter/boot (manual)
Propshaft(s)
Bearings
Clutch pedal/cable adjustment
Underside condition
Chassis members
Sub frames/mountings
Corrosion - floor/chassis
Corrosion protection
Engine underside leakage
Fuel system
Tank fixings
Fuel lines
Breather pipes
Evidence of leaks
Exhaust system
Operation
System condition
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Old Sep 28th, 2019, 21:01   #14
WrathOfKain
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Gents,
Any suggestions for telling the mechanic for key symptoms/ areas to look at ?


Merci Buckets
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Old Sep 28th, 2019, 21:13   #15
MG68
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I would get the AA / RAC to check any car over, if you don't have a friendly mechanic nearby who can help.

Clickmechanic? Who's he? What recourse does he offer if the car you buy turns out to be a dud?
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Old Sep 28th, 2019, 22:30   #16
XC90Mk1
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Your best bet will be to pay someone on here with VIDA DICE to read all the logged fault code and have a look over.

The auto box is sold as sealed for life which is not really right. If you change the fluid yourself it’s sub 100 quid. Budget 300 for a garage and it will need doing.

The haldex init will also need fluid change. £40 quid if you do it yourself, 100 if someone else does it.

The aux belt and tensioner need to be done at 54k. If the belt or tensioner fails, and they are known to, then you will likely destroy the engine. With cambelt, idler and tensioner about 250 yourself, maybe 600 or so at a garage.

If you can work on cars you can work on the xc90, it is one of the simplest cars I have ever worked on and parts are not too expensive. It’s onlt when you start going to dealers.

The electrical module (stereo/headset thing, not sure of proper name), that’s 1k if it breaks. HID lights are costly if broken, bush’s, drop links and engine mounts etc will need checking, at 100k they will likely be past it. Again cheap if you do it yourself, costly if you pay a garage.
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Old Sep 29th, 2019, 13:10   #17
Harley Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XC90Mk1 View Post
Your best bet will be to pay someone on here with VIDA DICE to read all the logged fault code and have a look over.

The auto box is sold as sealed for life which is not really right. If you change the fluid yourself it’s sub 100 quid. Budget 300 for a garage and it will need doing.

The haldex init will also need fluid change. £40 quid if you do it yourself, 100 if someone else does it.

The aux belt and tensioner need to be done at 54k. If the belt or tensioner fails, and they are known to, then you will likely destroy the engine. With cambelt, idler and tensioner about 250 yourself, maybe 600 or so at a garage.

If you can work on cars you can work on the xc90, it is one of the simplest cars I have ever worked on and parts are not too expensive. It’s onlt when you start going to dealers.

The electrical module (stereo/headset thing, not sure of proper name), that’s 1k if it breaks. HID lights are costly if broken, bush’s, drop links and engine mounts etc will need checking, at 100k they will likely be past it. Again cheap if you do it yourself, costly if you pay a garage.

Is that right - 54k??

Cheers

Dave
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Old Oct 2nd, 2019, 19:41   #18
WrathOfKain
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Thumbs down Johna Volvo ?

It appears I am the Johna of Volvos. My first two picks:

XC90 2004 - Core plug failure

XC90 2007 ...... Wait for it .....
[LIST=1]
  1. Engine rattling on idle
  2. Vehicle smoking
  3. Oil leaking from around turbo hose
  4. Turbo Noisey when revved
  5. Excessive oil leak underneath
  6. Knocking on front suspension
  7. Osf play on wishbone
  8. Nsf lower arm suspension bushes worn
  9. Vehicle footbrake not holding
  10. Front wheels moving when vehicle in park and foot brake applied
  11. Front tyres both significant wear
  12. Fuel flap not locking
  13. Both front foglamp lens cracked
  14. Both headlamp lens misty
  15. Front bumper scratched
  16. Nsf wing and both doors scratched
  17. Parking sensors not working

Fault Codes
COM-DD16 - Damper motor air distribution. No communication.
COM-DD16 - Damper motor air demister. No communication.
PHM-006B - Controlmodule memory fault. Internal fault.
DEM-000A - Power supply. Faulty voltage.
SAS-000E - Steering wheel angle sensor. Internal fault.
SAS-0007 - Control Module Internal Fault.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2019, 20:11   #19
SwissXC90
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Walk away. Quickly.
__________________
XC90 R-Design MY2009, Black Sapphire Metallic. HP-Sound, RSE, Nav, Tel, ParkingCam, BLIS, ParkingHeater, RestHeat, Removable Towbar, Summer: CRATUS 20x8 on Pirelli Scorpion Zeros 255/45, Winter: NEPTUNE 17x7 on Continental WinterContact 4x4 235/65.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2019, 20:15   #20
WrathOfKain
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Walk away. Quickly.
Defo .... went into a full sprint .... still trying to catch my breath.
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