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B230FD Problems :)

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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 07:01   #151
aardvarkash10
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No, I suggested that this would be one of few explanations that fit with your described symptoms.

It was slightly tongue-in-cheek and aimed more at Dave.

OK, here we go.

Your battery is fully charged. I assume you have measured it - let us know.

Its easy to check if the new alternator is the cause of the misfire at 3,000 rpm. Just disconnect it electrically (take off BOTH the B+ and the w/l wire) and run the car. If it still misses at 3000 rpm, the alternator is not the cause, something else is.

Do only this - nothing else, not even if you think it will help. Just what I said.

Tell us what happens.

Last edited by aardvarkash10; Feb 20th, 2020 at 07:31.
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 09:14   #152
mocambique-amazone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo940GL View Post
I had an ecu I had and could try, but I was told the ecu wasn’t the case, since it’s either dead or don’t work at all, meaning nothing happens when trying to crank??
who told this to you. Stop talking with people which have no clue. Too many people think they know about, the reality is different to them.....opposite
I have no idea. I have checked everything.
But using a multimeter on every sensor, haven’t done that yet
stop to change parts
Measure
Follow Ash and his instructions

Or sell the car

I'm out here, waste of time to me
Good luck!!!
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 09:15   #153
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo940GL View Post
How can the ecu be bad? It’s either working or not. Not In between?
Yes, that can happen. In fact, now you have a working alternator (the 100A one) the symptoms are presenting exactly the same as another B230F powered 940GLE of a similar age that had a duff ECU - would start but wouldn't rev past 3000rpm.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo940GL View Post
I had an ecu I had and could try, but I was told the ecu wasn’t the case, since it’s either dead or don’t work at all, meaning nothing happens when trying to crank??
Is it the same ECU??? You need to disconnect the battery -ve lead before swapping ECUs and also leave fuse #1 out. Only replace fuse #1 once the battery has been reconnected.

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Originally Posted by Volvo940GL View Post
Battery is fully charged. And I didn’t pull out fuse 1
Pull fuse #1 - the ECU has a memory for faults, fuel trims etc and does indeed have a Limp Mode - not all faults light the Engine Management Light.



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Originally Posted by Volvo940GL View Post
I noticed when I changed alternator and battery, it cranked way faster and started faster. Is it really the ecu that’s causing this?
Yes, the ECU is more than capable of causing this. A faulty TPS could also cause it by telling the ECU the throttle is closed when you're trying to rev it up.

You really need to get yourself a NOID light, it's not like they're expensive and it will save a lot of time, trouble and head-scratching by simply showing if the injectors are cutting out at 3000rpm.

Do the test Ash described and let us know the outcome.
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 12:30   #154
Volvo940GL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Yes, that can happen. In fact, now you have a working alternator (the 100A one) the symptoms are presenting exactly the same as another B230F powered 940GLE of a similar age that had a duff ECU - would start but wouldn't rev past 3000rpm.





Is it the same ECU??? You need to disconnect the battery -ve lead before swapping ECUs and also leave fuse #1 out. Only replace fuse #1 once the battery has been reconnected.




Pull fuse #1 - the ECU has a memory for faults, fuel trims etc and does indeed have a Limp Mode - not all faults light the Engine Management Light.






Yes, the ECU is more than capable of causing this. A faulty TPS could also cause it by telling the ECU the throttle is closed when you're trying to rev it up.

You really need to get yourself a NOID light, it's not like they're expensive and it will save a lot of time, trouble and head-scratching by simply showing if the injectors are cutting out at 3000rpm.

Do the test Ash described and let us know the outcome.

It’s an ecu for b230fb.
But the MAF, does it need to match the ecu? When changing ecu?
Or do I change it aswell
I got ECUand EZK for B230FB

Well Ash, it’s your choice to help me or not. I appreciate your help, your help aswel, Dave

The noid light. Really, I need to get one then.

But the symptoms of not reving more than 3000rpm. It happened on the 100a alternator. Didn’t happen in my 65ampere

So, what I should try next is

Record my injectors with noid light

2. Try changing ECU and EZK
3. Install my 100ampere again.

Tps can also be causing problems hm. But I did measure it. But I don’t remember my readings, gotta measure again.
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 13:13   #155
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo940GL View Post
It’s an ecu for b230fb.
But the MAF, does it need to match the ecu? When changing ecu?
Or do I change it aswell
I got ECUand EZK for B230FB

Well Ash, it’s your choice to help me or not. I appreciate your help, your help aswel, Dave

The noid light. Really, I need to get one then.

But the symptoms of not reving more than 3000rpm. It happened on the 100a alternator. Didn’t happen in my 65ampere

So, what I should try next is

Record my injectors with noid light

2. Try changing ECU and EZK
3. Install my 100ampere again.

Tps can also be causing problems hm. But I did measure it. But I don’t remember my readings, gotta measure again.
The correct ECU for your car is the 0 280 000 946, the B230FB uses 0 280 000 595 or 935, 935, 968 - the last three digits chance according to year of manufacture.

The ECUs aren't always interchangeable.

The MAF is 0 280 212 016 and is used on both the B230FD and B230FB as well as the F, FK and FT models and the B234F so you shouldn't need to change the MAF to match the ECU - whoever told you that needs their neck stretched!

Make sure the ECU you have fitted before you try it again is the correct one, ending in 946 - disconnect the battery and remove fuse #1 before changing it, only replace fuse #1 after the battery is reconnected. Make sure the 100A alternator is fitted too!

As for the TPS, i know you've measured it, i'm talking about disconnecting the orange wire from the TPS to prove it's not staying connected to earth through any fault of the switch.

The EZK unit you should have is the 0 227 400 196 for the FD engine. The FB uses the 0 227 400 175 so once you've made sure the fuel ECU is the correct 946 unit, make sure the EZK unit is the 196 unit.

In short, disconnect the battery and put it on charge. Refit the 100A alternator, make sure the ECUs are fitted as described above (fuel 946, EZK 196) and pull fuse #1 then take the battery off charge and reconnect it. Refit fuse #1.

Start it up and see what you've got. If it won't rev above 3000rpm, remove the orange wire from the TPS and try again.

If it still won't rev, switch everything off and get your multimeter on Ohms and check the resitance from the orange wire to earth - there shoudn't be any connection at all.

If that's all ok, reconnect the orange wire to the TPS and fit the NOID light (yes, it is essential to fault finding!) to one of the injectors and monitor it as you bring the revs up. If it gets to 3000rpm or thereabouts and the NOID light goes out, keep the throttle in the position it's in and wait and see what happens. I suspect it will drop to near idle speed and then the NOID light will start working again and the engine will rev again.

For the record, we know your 65A alternator is dead. The ECU will see this and go into Limp Mode so will default to preset values for certain sensors. Also it depends which ECU you have fitted at the moment, without the correct ECUs fitted, we don't know if we're making progress or going round in circles getting nowhere!
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Old Mar 6th, 2020, 17:52   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
The correct ECU for your car is the 0 280 000 946, the B230FB uses 0 280 000 595 or 935, 935, 968 - the last three digits chance according to year of manufacture.

The ECUs aren't always interchangeable.

The MAF is 0 280 212 016 and is used on both the B230FD and B230FB as well as the F, FK and FT models and the B234F so you shouldn't need to change the MAF to match the ECU - whoever told you that needs their neck stretched!

Make sure the ECU you have fitted before you try it again is the correct one, ending in 946 - disconnect the battery and remove fuse #1 before changing it, only replace fuse #1 after the battery is reconnected. Make sure the 100A alternator is fitted too!

As for the TPS, i know you've measured it, i'm talking about disconnecting the orange wire from the TPS to prove it's not staying connected to earth through any fault of the switch.

The EZK unit you should have is the 0 227 400 196 for the FD engine. The FB uses the 0 227 400 175 so once you've made sure the fuel ECU is the correct 946 unit, make sure the EZK unit is the 196 unit.

In short, disconnect the battery and put it on charge. Refit the 100A alternator, make sure the ECUs are fitted as described above (fuel 946, EZK 196) and pull fuse #1 then take the battery off charge and reconnect it. Refit fuse #1.

Start it up and see what you've got. If it won't rev above 3000rpm, remove the orange wire from the TPS and try again.

If it still won't rev, switch everything off and get your multimeter on Ohms and check the resitance from the orange wire to earth - there shoudn't be any connection at all.

If that's all ok, reconnect the orange wire to the TPS and fit the NOID light (yes, it is essential to fault finding!) to one of the injectors and monitor it as you bring the revs up. If it gets to 3000rpm or thereabouts and the NOID light goes out, keep the throttle in the position it's in and wait and see what happens. I suspect it will drop to near idle speed and then the NOID light will start working again and the engine will rev again.

For the record, we know your 65A alternator is dead. The ECU will see this and go into Limp Mode so will default to preset values for certain sensors. Also it depends which ECU you have fitted at the moment, without the correct ECUs fitted, we don't know if we're making progress or going round in circles getting nowhere!
My car caught fire during midnight. It started in enginebay. Luckily no one was hurt. I’m shocked a Volvo could ignite itself. Electrical fault. mice have been in the car. Found a mouse skeleton

Thanks for your support and help with this game. It’s been a pleasure.
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Old Mar 6th, 2020, 21:19   #157
Laird Scooby
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Sorry to hear about your car!

If it's any consolation, if a mouse has made a meal of the electrics, any car can catch fire. On the upside, karma smiled on you in a couple of ways.

First, you don't need to worry about fixing the fault and second, the mouse caused your car to become a BBQ, the mouse itself got BBQ'd!
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