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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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steering wheel slight vibrationViews : 851 Replies : 20Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 14th, 2020, 10:49 | #11 | |
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That kit will do one side Jim so you'll need two kits, one for the left, the other for the right. Jack up, support the car and remove the wheel from the side you're working on. Loosen the bolt in the front of the tie rod from the lower control arm to the chassis. Loosen the bolt in the chassis at the rear of the tie bar. Now remove the bolt from the front end of it, remove the bolt and nut from the bush at the rear and pull (or lever) the rear end out of the chassis. Pull off the front cup washer and bush, noting orientation. Pull the tie rod out of the control arm, remove the bush and washer, again noting orientation. With a rotary wire brush in a drill, clean up the surfaces in the control arm where the bushes sit. Slide the new rear washer and bush onto the tie rod, refit loosely in the control arm, slide the front bush and washer on and loosely fit the new bolt and washer. Refit the rear end of the tie bar to the chassis with the nut and bolt but don't tighten it fully yet. Hand tighten the bolt in the front. Refit the wheel and remove the jack etc. Bounce the corner of the car to settle the bushes then crawl under and tighten the rear bush. Turn the steering to full lock and remove the front bolt, apply some Threadlock to the thread, refit and tighten. Torque settings Rear bush bolt M12 (19mm heads on bolt and nut) 85Nm or 63lb/ft M14 (22mm heads) 140Nm or 103lb/ft Front tie bar to control arm bolt 95Nm or 70lb/ft. While you're under there, check the lower balljoint for wear as well.
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Feb 14th, 2020, 12:18 | #12 |
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Can I just add that the cheap spaceship bushes ( non Volvo rubber ) get a bad name from what I've heard. Someone may well correct me on that though
Superflex do a polybush set for £30.00 that quite a few forum members have fitted and appear to have good results Getting all the crud and remnants of the old bushes out can be quite a job as well especially if they have been in for 25 years. I had to chisel the crap out with a screwdriver. If you don't get the surfaces nice and clean the bushes will wear pretty quickly and this may well be exacerbated with cheap rubber. Cheers , Mark
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Feb 14th, 2020, 12:43 | #13 |
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When I looked at the ebay link the wishbone came up aswell. £46 from Polar in Germany is good value (L+R for £80), last saw these at £175 each. You get the inner bush and a fresh clean surfaces. If I was doing it now I'd buy these.
I actually used my spares car, refurbed the wishbones and swapped them out, changing the inner bush was a hole project, cleaning the wishbone was difficult too (even after sandblasting). The rust gets really hard and layered, needs chiseled out. A wire brush will not shift it. I'd tend to stick with decent brand rubber bushes not poly. Poly doesn't have enough compliance for low speed manoeuvring. Definately tighten the locked up bushes when the car is on the ground, otherwise they will be ruined fairly quickly. That could be a reason people have bad experiences. |
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Feb 14th, 2020, 12:53 | #14 |
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Some of them can be a bit grim Mark, i used Febi Bilstein/First Line bushes, originally made by First Line (who are now part of Febi-Bilstein) and have had no problems.
I think a lot of the problems come from not cleaning the control arms and not tightening correctly (i.e. with the weight of the car on the wheels) which puts the bushes under strain before you even start. As far as i'm aware, the ones from Charlton Volvo that i linked to are the same as what i used. Generally speaking the rear bush in the tie rod is fairly long-lived but worth checking while you're at it. Tony - have you ever heard of electrolytic derusting? Worth investigating for jobs like that!
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Feb 14th, 2020, 18:07 | #15 |
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space ship bushes
hi thank you all for your valued input i will look further into this if im confident
enough to tackle this job . i suppose all the nuts will need a good dose of plus gas releasing oil .o i don't have a toque wrench so is that really a must for this job ? |
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Feb 14th, 2020, 18:56 | #16 | |
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I would say the torque wrench is a necessity, even a basic £15-20 from ebay will be ok and then you'll have it and there's a lot of things on the car that should be tightened with a torque wrench, wheel nuts for example (63lb/ft ~85Nm) to prevent things like wheel stud failure, damage to the alloys etc. Also the Threadlock is pretty essential too. Again you can (and almost certainly will) use it on the car so worth investing a few quid in a bottle of it. Seriously, give it a go, it's easy enough and even if you take your time so you can go through the instructions a few times while doing it, it's unlikely to take you more than a couple of hours and that includes tea breaks. I had a bit of help with someone operating the jack for me but i managed to do mine in about half an hour. In fairness i used a 12V impact torque wrench so undoing and doing the bolts up again was fairly quick and a codless drill for the wire brush to clean where the bushes sit in the control arm but it didn't take long at all.
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Feb 14th, 2020, 19:11 | #17 |
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there are quite a few different thread lock liquids dave as ive used in my time what grade i/type is recommended?
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Feb 14th, 2020, 20:11 | #18 |
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Good question Jim, i used a general purpose one, nothing special.
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Feb 14th, 2020, 20:18 | #19 |
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You could also check with Luke ( 360 Beast ) as was offering refurbished strut rod and control arms. Makes the job a lot easier
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Feb 14th, 2020, 20:24 | #20 | |
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I might have it wrong though................
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