S40 2.0D safe remap limits

[TMan77711]

Hi everyone. Looking for some advice if possible. I have a 2008 s40 2.0 d with 100k. Car has been well maintained and has had a new LUK clutch kit installed. I am not a boy racer but would like a little more performance from the car and also to try and improve MPG. I tried a TMC diesel tune box but kept getting CEL alerts and ended up having to replace a turbo control valve. I lost confidence in this device and ended up removing it and really can't recommend this type of enhancement to a car as I feel it just fools the ECU rather than providing proper control. Personally I thought the diesel tune box was too harsh on the car even with a lower setting selected on the box controller as the turbo seemed to over spin and strong vibration through gear linkage during acceleration. I'm now considering a proper remap using a rolling road which I should have done in the first place actually as there is a company close by to me who can do this service at a cheaper price than the box. My question is, does anyone out there with knowledge have an idea of what the safe bhp and torque should be with a remap without stressing the drivetrain, turbo, intercooler, DPF etc and are there any issues with the S40 I should be aware of when getting this done? ie people have told me the intercooler can be a bit weak. The local remap company is offering a remap increasing 30 bhp to around 169 and up to around 288 lb.ft torque. Anyone help with suggestions or advice? Thanks in advance! TMan

[brickman]

That shake you at getting through the linkage and probably clutch pedal is the dual mass flywheel reaching its limit.
That is normally the limiting factor as the torque overwhelmes it at lower rpm (<2500RPM)
Doubt 30hp at the crank should be a prob, it's the torque that causes problems. A good remap by a qualified tuner should increase both, but also have the torque feed in smoothly, otherwise it just causes issues

[TMan77711]

Originally Posted by brickman

That shake you at getting through the linkage and probably clutch pedal is the dual mass flywheel reaching its limit.
That is normally the limiting factor as the torque overwhelmes it at lower rpm (<2500RPM)
Doubt 30hp at the crank should be a prob, it's the torque that causes problems. A good remap by a qualified tuner should increase both, but also have the torque feed in smoothly, otherwise it just causes issues

Hi Brickman. Thank you for your reply. Yes indeed the gear link vibrations did appear following the clutch replacement and it has been mentioned to me before that the flywheel might be to blame. The car is currently stock and I still get a vibration through the gear linkages when revving at idle around 2000rpm. Just to clarify, I really don't want to cause further issues, do you feel If the flywheel is causing an issue not to remap? Or could the new remap smooth out the torque to help and support the flywheel ?

[wimorrison]

If you are getting a vibration then this is mechanical and as you have had the clutch replaced and that is when it appeared it is almost certainly connected with that.

Increasing the torque on the engine will not affect the vibration, you might get to the vibration quicker but it won't improve or increase it.

[TMan77711]

Originally Posted by wimorrison

If you are getting a vibration then this is mechanical and as you have had the clutch replaced and that is when it appeared it is almost certainly connected with that.

Increasing the torque on the engine will not affect the vibration, you might get to the vibration quicker but it won't improve or increase it.

Thanks for your comment. The only time I got the gear links vibration while the car was actually moving was when the car was under acceleration with the TMC tune box attached in addition to a very slight high boost turbo whistle which appeared. I removed the box and the car drives normally now. I only had box attached for a week but never felt comfortable with it. The only time I get a similar buzz sound from the gear linkage is when the car is in neutral revved and held at around 2000 RPM. If I pull the gear stick towards me the buzzing sound stops. The links I refer to are located below the tray behind the floating console. Not sure if this is actual torque per se as the engine is not really under load. It worries me it could relate to a flywheel issue that would affect a proper remap. No vibration from clutch pedal.

[brickman]

So...
You have new clutch but still the old DMF?
and

With new tuning box fitted - shaking under some throttle (but not WOT) between idle and 2000rpm = DMF is struggling

With box removed again - only complaint is rattle noise on gear linkage at idle? Rattles are quite common on diesels so assume its just that, or poss a linkage has not been put together right after recent clutch change job?


To me sounds like too much torque on a tired DMF (I have same issue but learned to drive around the problem by not caning it until its over 2.5krpm)

[TMan77711]

Originally Posted by brickman

So...
You have new clutch but still the old DMF?
and

With new tuning box fitted - shaking under some throttle (but not WOT) between idle and 2000rpm = DMF is struggling

With box removed again - only complaint is rattle noise on gear linkage at idle? Rattles are quite common on diesels so assume its just that, or poss a linkage has not been put together right after recent clutch change job?


To me sounds like too much torque on a tired DMF (I have same issue but learned to drive around the problem by not caning it until its over 2.5krpm)

Hi brickman. Thanks for your thoughts. Yes, since Box removed no more vibration through gear linkage during acceleration. When stopped in neutral I get a resonating / buzzing sound through gear linkage below floating console around 2200 RPM. Gears change smoothly however - no other issues with the car. How would a tired DPF cause this resonance?

[wimorrison]

DMF - not DPF, it is the dual mass flywheel and what happens is the materials in the flywheel wear and it stops acting as a solid dual mass flywheel and vibrates at particular frequencies depending on the wear and failure.

Normally checked and / or replaced when you change a clutch, almost always ends with it being replaced as you don't want to strip everything down again when it fails ...

[TMan77711]

Hi..sorry I misread your earlier post. No..the DMF is new also. I got a whole clutch kit installed.

[TMan77711]

i really don't think it's worth the hassle. I think I will just keep the car standard and buy a D5 next time. At least I will be sure a factory spec car is equipped to take the power. Diesel tune boxes and remaps are just playing Russian roulette with your car. Insurance premium increase exceeds fuel savings and does not make financial sense.