Service Issues: DPF Soot filter full

[SwissXC90]

Oil can only be lost through
1. Leakage out of engine (maybe into coolant)
2. Burning

You can check 1 easily.
NOTE that the engine splash cover contains an absorbent mat that will soak up any leaking oil, so inspect under the engine with no splash cover fitted.
Leave splash cover off and park over a large piece of cardboard, leave overnight and check in the morning. You'll see oil drips on the cardboard easily.

For the 2nd do the following:

Using VIDA do the following:

Check your engine is reaching normal operating temperature of 90°C (+/- 2°). Mine sits happily at 89° C,
Reason: no DPF regens occur until engine is warm; an engine running under normal temperature will never trigger a DPF regen, and the DPF eventually blocks up.

Check your fuel trim on all 5 cylinders. This will show any cylinder with poor compression. Reason: the ECU will compensate for low power on one cylinder by increasing fuel. Good compression on all cylinders with have fuel trim within the specified limits.
NOTE: you don't need a compression testing kit for this - all you need is VIDA software.

Both of the above can be done with VIDA, just by connecting to the car and running the tests.

Especially the fuel trim test is a good indicator of cylinder compression.

If engine temp is normal and fuel trim is normal, then the only place that oil can be lost is through worn turbo oil seals, loosing oil into the inlet or exhaust.

Take of the inlet pipe after the EGR and check for oil
You will have some carbon (soot) but there should be no oil.
Also, check charge air pipe seals under the engine. They may seep a bit of oil.
Disconnect and inspect inside of charge air pipe at the lowest point after the resonator - what does it look like?

I'm picking worn turbo oil seals as likely cause.
Which means removing, inspecting, and likely replacing the turbo.

[S60D5-185]

Under normal circumstances how often does a regen take place?

[SwissXC90]

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

Under normal circumstances how often does a regen take place?

If you trigger it manually in VIDA, it can take up to 30 minutes
Some of this time is the warm-up and cool-down phase

I've never noticed a regen occurring when driving, but given the time taken in VIDA I expect it would be something like 15min to 30min.
At best during motorway driving.

[S60D5-185]

Thanks Swiss,

the reason that I asked about the regen frequency ( rather than duration ) is that today I did around 180 miles on the motorway in my newly acquired Xc90 d5 185 and deliberately selected instantaneous mpg readout so as to observe if a regen took place.

My understanding is that the mpg drops dramatically on the display during regen. I saw no change at all during the entire trip so can only assume that no regen took place on todays journey. I can only imagine that everything is fine with the car and that a regen was not required as the car ran faultlessly.

On my previous S60 that also had the D5 185 engine I did over 60k trouble free miles , never had any soot filter messages and was never aware of a regen taking place although in all fairness I never looked for it.

[SwissXC90]

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

the reason that I asked about the regen frequency ( rather than duration ) is that today I did around 180 miles on the motorway in my newly acquired Xc90 d5 185 and deliberately selected instantaneous mpg readout so as to observe if a regen took place.

If you look at the data in VIDA and do the math, you see that a regen will occur every 1 to 2 tanks of diesel consumed.

Depends on the driving style (city / motorway etc).

[Hank3944]

Originally Posted by SwissXC90

Oil can only be lost through
1. Leakage out of engine (maybe into coolant)
2. Burning

You can check 1 easily.
NOTE that the engine splash cover contains an absorbent mat that will soak up any leaking oil, so inspect under the engine with no splash cover fitted.
Leave splash cover off and park over a large piece of cardboard, leave overnight and check in the morning. You'll see oil drips on the cardboard easily.

For the 2nd do the following:

Using VIDA do the following:

Check your engine is reaching normal operating temperature of 90°C (+/- 2°). Mine sits happily at 89° C,
Reason: no DPF regens occur until engine is warm; an engine running under normal temperature will never trigger a DPF regen, and the DPF eventually blocks up.

Check your fuel trim on all 5 cylinders. This will show any cylinder with poor compression. Reason: the ECU will compensate for low power on one cylinder by increasing fuel. Good compression on all cylinders with have fuel trim within the specified limits.
NOTE: you don't need a compression testing kit for this - all you need is VIDA software.

Both of the above can be done with VIDA, just by connecting to the car and running the tests.

Especially the fuel trim test is a good indicator of cylinder compression.

If engine temp is normal and fuel trim is normal, then the only place that oil can be lost is through worn turbo oil seals, loosing oil into the inlet or exhaust.

Take of the inlet pipe after the EGR and check for oil
You will have some carbon (soot) but there should be no oil.
Also, check charge air pipe seals under the engine. They may seep a bit of oil.
Disconnect and inspect inside of charge air pipe at the lowest point after the resonator - what does it look like?

I'm picking worn turbo oil seals as likely cause.
Which means removing, inspecting, and likely replacing the turbo.

Swiss xc you are totally spot on again... i have taken the splash cover off and there is oil there! There is a black pipe about 2” thick that runs from the back of the engine to the front sort of through the sump, this is oily and there is a drip on it....shall i undo it and look inside?

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by Hank3944

Swiss xc you are totally spot on again... i have taken the splash cover off and there is oil there! There is a black pipe about 2” thick that runs from the back of the engine to the front sort of through the sump, this is oily and there is a drip on it....shall i undo it and look inside?

Right we might be getting somewhere now.

This is the pipe that leads from the Turbo to the intercooler.

If you look at the rear most end of the plastic pipe you will see an orange seal where it meets the resonator box. There is also one on top of the resonator box where it meets the Turbo.

These seals split and can really affect the running because everything is linked together including ultimately the operation of the PCV as it recirculates oily fumes from the crankcase

Following on from Colinbos's advice I removed the resonator box completely and replaced it with this item which should prevent any further leaks.

You MUST sort this leak out by either replacing the two Orange seals OR fitting the Silicone Hose.

This fix, coupled with the fact that you have changed the PCV will all have a knock on effect in terms of getting your car sorted.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-V70...oAAOSwPe1UEHm1

[Hank3944]

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

Right we might be getting somewhere now.

This is the pipe that leads from the Turbo to the intercooler.

If you look at the rear most end of the plastic pipe you will see an orange seal where it meets the resonator box. There is also one on top of the resonator box where it meets the Turbo.

These seals split and can really affect the running because everything is linked together including ultimately the operation of the PCV as it recirculates oily fumes from the crankcase

Following on from Colinbos's advice I removed the resonator box completely and replaced it with this item which should prevent any further leaks.

You MUST sort this leak out by either replacing the two Orange seals OR fitting the Silicone Hose.

This fix, coupled with the fact that you have changed the PCV will all have a knock on effect in terms of getting your car sorted.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-V70...oAAOSwPe1UEHm1

I love all you guys!!!! It all easily accessable? If the seals are shot could the turbo still be ok? Or could the turbo be shot?

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by Hank3944

I love all you guys!!!! It all easily accessable? If the seals are shot could the turbo still be ok? Or could the turbo be shot?

Every chance that Turbo is still fine but best get other things sorted first before making checks on Turbo.

You are heading in the right direction.

Sort that leak issue and give the car a chance to see if it sorts itself out. All of this together can easily have an impact on the DPF.

Essentially you have a boost leak at present.

[Hank3944]

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

Every chance that Turbo is still fine but best get other things sorted first before making checks on Turbo.

You are heading in the right direction.

Sort that leak issue and give the car a chance to see if it sorts itself out. All of this together can easily have an impact on the DPF.

Essentially you have a boost leak at present.

Thanks sd. Is it easy fix to change the pipe? Is there anything i need to look out for?