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Rear axle pinion flange nut

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Old Mar 19th, 2020, 20:57   #1
niveketak
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Default Rear axle pinion flange nut

Been laid on the garage floor under Ruby again, 122S, have changed the diff cover gasket as it was weeping oil but the diff is also leaking at the front at the pinion. I have made a tool to bolt to half the flange as is suggested in Haynes and set to trying to undo the nut. Much swearing and throwing of things later it is still there. Even tried using a trolley jack but that just bent a Britool strong bar I have had since 1972. I don't have access to a ramp anywhere and the back of the car is as high as I can get it but room is at a premium. I assume it is right hand thread. Anyone had success removing the nut?
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 06:31   #2
davidw6092
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They are tight but not usually that tight!Regarding the oil leak,have you checked that the breather pipe on top of the axle tube is clear?Also if the car has been stood for a long time,if the seal is an old leather one it will have dried up,sometimes the leak gets a little better with use.
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 08:51   #3
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Borrow an impact gun/wrench
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 09:33   #4
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Originally Posted by davidw6092 View Post
They are tight but not usually that tight!Regarding the oil leak,have you checked that the breather pipe on top of the axle tube is clear?Also if the car has been stood for a long time,if the seal is an old leather one it will have dried up,sometimes the leak gets a little better with use.
The car has been in use for 7 years since I purchased it. Must admit I haven't seen a breather pipe so will have a look but when I had the rear end up in the air for a couple of days it started dripping from the seal and along with the oil spray onto the exhaust I think the seal has had it.
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 09:37   #5
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Originally Posted by arcturus View Post
Borrow an impact gun/wrench
I have one but its not budging. Maybe I was getting weak after all the rolling about on the garage floor, I am beginning to realise at 64 it takes its toll. We are currently in "lock down" here in France so can't borrow anything but I have arranged to borrow a single hex socket from a mate, (we are allowed to go shopping so there will be a spy like exchange in the supermarket when nobody is looking!) Will give it a good old heave ho when I get the socket.
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 11:20   #6
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I have no knowledge of the 122 differential, but perhaps this home made tool might help. I made mine from a cast off bed frame made from angle iron for strength.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts209.htm

This was for a removeable differential pumpkin as shown in the picture, but I did use it under the car at first. I found that my problem was a bad pinion bearing, not the seal, so I ultimately had to remove the pumpkin.
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 12:46   #7
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Remember that the nut is torqued up to 200-220 ft/lbs. Undoing or retorquing to this number isn't easy lying on the ground underneath. I would advise you not to try and do this with the car on jack stands under the axle. It would be all to easy to lever the car off them. Rear wheels on secure and stable ramps would be better. Obviously having the car on a proper garage lift is best and you can then get some length on the extension bar with a length of pipe. Lock down may mean that this job will have to wait. A good torque wrench that is adjustable to 220ft/lbs also need for the refit. Be wary of generic seals for this job. There are poor quality ones out there which aren't easy to fit without damage. A proper Volvo one is advised. Get it before you remove the old one.
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 15:18   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
Remember that the nut is torqued up to 200-220 ft/lbs. Undoing or retorquing to this number isn't easy lying on the ground underneath. I would advise you not to try and do this with the car on jack stands under the axle. It would be all to easy to lever the car off them. Rear wheels on secure and stable ramps would be better. Obviously having the car on a proper garage lift is best and you can then get some length on the extension bar with a length of pipe. Lock down may mean that this job will have to wait. A good torque wrench that is adjustable to 220ft/lbs also need for the refit. Be wary of generic seals for this job. There are poor quality ones out there which aren't easy to fit without damage. A proper Volvo one is advised. Get it before you remove the old one.
Hi Derek. Although it is on stands I have two trolley jacks under the suspension as additional stability so am quite happy it won't go anywhere. i have some ramps but they are not high enough. May consider screwing some wood blocks under the stands if I can make them stable enough though.

The seal came from Brookhouse so not sure whether this would be a Volvo one or not. I will have one more go at undoing it when I am fresh to the job, failing that I will reattach the prop and leave it till this Coronavirus sods off.

I have a torque wrench which goes high enough. Thanks as always for the advice.
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 15:48   #9
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Have you tried swearing at it in Swedish?
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Old Mar 20th, 2020, 21:17   #10
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Have you tried swearing at it in Swedish?
Yes jävla jävel apparently
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