From 940 N/A to 940 Turbo

[V70Moss]

Hi all, just thought I'd introduce you to my first taste of 940 ownership.

It started last year when I bought my first ever 940, it was a 2.3 N/A B230FB, it was a great, a super clean car - 1994 model, but I decided to sell it recently as I fancied a turbo model. I did contemplate converting it but it seemed too immaculate and original to start messing with.

A few pictures of my last 940...

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After looking around managed to find a 940 2.3 LPT Torslanda Auto a few weeks ago relatively close to myself.

So...a 2hr train journey down to the Midlands and I returned a happy chappy with a drive back up the M6 to Lancashire, although the dash lights and radio didn't work.
After checking all the fuses I found a few fuses blown. I managed to get the radio on but no deal on the dash lights.

New 940 ... First wash

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It turned out after doing a bit of diagnosis that the dimmer switch was faulty - I managed to link the wires across and replaced the original bulbs with some L.E.Ds for the time being- fuel gauge bulb was temperamental so I had to swap this out again.

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So a few issues with the car that need sorting and i'm going to be working through the list in the coming weeks

It did have a slight misfire at idle, this turned out to be the inlet manifold gasket leaking at number 1 cylinder, a brake cleaner test found it straight away.

It was also loosing coolant - my first thinking of these two faults was that it needed the head gasket replacing but fortunately the expansion tank was leaking from small cracks once it had reached upto temperature, so a new expansion tank from Volvo has sorted that

Up next to do is:-

Cambelt kit / waterpump to replace,
Full service,
Exhaust leak from centre exhaust,
I've just ordered a ball/spring type MBC and boost gauge to up the boost to around 10psi.
Full detail, polish and valet,
ABS light is on - so will no doubt be a faulty sensor.
Windscreen rubber strip rotten along top of windscreen.

Other than that I might change the wheels, would love a set of Hydras, but they fetch more than I'm willing to spend at present.

Thanks

[classicswede]

When you do the water pump go SKF rather than a cheapo or cheapo in Volvo box

[V70Moss]

Thanks for the info, will do.

[deeman940]

Originally Posted by classicswede

When you do the water pump go SKF rather than a cheapo or cheapo in Volvo box

this......

[V70Moss]

Boost gauge installed today, I didn't want it mounted on the dash so I decided to fit under the radio in the storage slot.

It needed quite a bit of fettling to make fit, and used the cig lighter connection for backlight.

Now to up the boost!!

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[deeman940]

That is where mine is 'fitted'...it is just kinda wedged in but doesn't move!

[TonyS9]

If the water pump is good, I'd recommend not changing it. The factory fitted ones are the best. Volvo original replacement parts not as good.

For the cam belt again if the tensioner is good, just leave it. Do change the cam belt if unknown.

Inlet leaks are common, mainly down to uneven tightening of the bolts.

When you say centre exhaust, do you mean mid silencer? Anything wrong with the manifold means turbo off and more seals. Not hard though but need care with the oil return seals.

Front ABS sensors are difficult to change, I've done a few posts on it. Need alot of hammering and drifts, and do not rotate the plastic top when putting back in.

When testing your MBC don't boot it for more than 40s or so without a cooling break. Cracks might happen at 140.

[TonyS9]

Oh and you'd be better with a new waste gate actuator than an MBC. The LPT one isn't good at 10psi.

Also FYI the auto's diff is quite high geared so its not particularly quick off the mark with an LPT due to the lack of gears. If you really want performance you need the manual including the manual rear axle. Having said that I've never tried boosting an LPT auto, but I have driven an LPT manual and auto.

[V70Moss]

Originally Posted by TonyS9

If the water pump is good, I'd recommend not changing it. The factory fitted ones are the best. Volvo original replacement parts not as good.

For the cam belt again if the tensioner is good, just leave it. Do change the cam belt if unknown.

Inlet leaks are common, mainly down to uneven tightening of the bolts.

When you say centre exhaust, do you mean mid silencer? Anything wrong with the manifold means turbo off and more seals. Not hard though but need care with the oil return seals.

Front ABS sensors are difficult to change, I've done a few posts on it. Need alot of hammering and drifts, and do not rotate the plastic top when putting back in.

When testing your MBC don't boot it for more than 40s or so without a cooling break. Cracks might happen at 140.

Hi, thanks for the detailed response.

Yes, it the mid silencer that is blowing from the exit pipe joint, I was wondering whether to cut it out and put a straight piece in.

I changed the timing belt today, will add some pics of my progress so far soon. It was a Febi kit, the tensioner that I removed seem fine in all honestly.

Interesting on the waterpump, car has now done 169k, what mileage are the original waterpumps generally good for? I have actually ordered an SKF one, but will leave the original fitted.

The heater control valve sprung a leak today, so I've had to order one of those - the plastic pipes had become brittle and literally disintegrated. Luckily it happened on the drive and not on the motorway.

Thanks

[V70Moss]

I've increased the boost to around 10psi, and have been driving it over the last few days, power delivery is night and day difference.

I am usually one to choose manuals but I have to say it is effortless with the auto box.