945 front hub retaining nut re-use?

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Ian Fozzard

Dave - everything is stripped down to replace calipers, discs etc. so the hub is the next thing to look at. I've never had noises or any problems with the hub bearings but the hubs don't spin very freely, BUT they do move round with light finger pressure. No play/no noise/smooth as silk.
Ian F

Leave as is then The original Volvo hubs are very good quality

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian Fozzard

Dave - everything is stripped down to replace calipers, discs etc. so the hub is the next thing to look at. I've never had noises or any problems with the hub bearings but the hubs don't spin very freely, BUT they do move round with light finger pressure. No play/no noise/smooth as silk.
Ian F

Originally Posted by griston64

Leave as is then The original Volvo hubs are very good quality

What Mark said! ^^^^^ There's not meant to be a complete free-spinny experience, there should be slight resistance from the grease in the bearings and if they turn with no noise, play or roughness then don't fix what ain't broke!

Originally Posted by griston64

That's what I thought Dave but I had a funny feeling early 740's etc had separate front wheel bearings that you could regrease and replace

I wouldn't use threadlock either. When I replaced mine recently the SKF hubs came with new nuts and once tightened to spec they deffo aren't going anywhere

You're right Mark, all the 7xx up to 1988 had the separate front wheel bearings that could be removed, cleaned regreased and adjusted with a castle nut and split pin to lock the adjustment. As stated further up, from 88 on the facelifted 760 (trying out ideas for the 940) had the integral wheel bearings, the 740 gained them as well during the 1989/90 facelift.

[baggy798]

The later 940 hubs look like they can be regreased. The outer inner race was kinda loose on the new ones I bought, so it's probably possible to take the old hub off, knock that out from the back and add grease.

Should expect a bit of drag, if they could be spun like a catherine wheel then ironically probably be on their last legs. As long as there's no play in any direction then leave well alone.

[J liddy]

I too have reused the front wheel bearing nuts .it's put on with a breaker bar so gets maximum tension very tight I kni will replace it when and if wheel bearing needs changing .what that wheel bearing it can fall apart and there's a technique to get it back together!!!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by J liddy

I too have reused the front wheel bearing nuts .it's put on with a breaker bar so gets maximum tension very tight I kni will replace it when and if wheel bearing needs changing .what that wheel bearing it can fall apart and there's a technique to get it back together!!!

You're right about the wheel bearing falling apart Jim, if you get the technique right it more or less falls into place putting it back together, get it slightly wrong and you'll never get it back together!

There is a very good reason why the hub nut should be torqued to a specific figure and why they should be renewed though.

[J liddy]

I have posted a brief description on how to get back together simple when you know .but only one way to do it from memory

[Forrest]

What a contrast. The only wheel bearings I’ve done DIY were the rear ones on my Mk2 Scirocco, same as a Mk1 Golf where the procedure is to tighten to about 7ft lbs and then loosen a bit!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Forrest

What a contrast. The only wheel bearings I’ve done DIY were the rear ones on my Mk2 Scirocco, same as a Mk1 Golf where the procedure is to tighten to about 7ft lbs and then loosen a bit!

Try the front wheel bearings on a Rover 800 - the hub nut has to be tightened to 420Nm (~315lbft) - that is tight!