C30 General : C30 Fuel filter housing disaster

[RPhoboS]

I can't catch a break with this freaking car at the moment.

I just went out to change the fuel filter as it was my late step fathers car, and I've no idea when it was last done.
Turns out which ever garage serviced it last, broke one side of the ears of the housing, and tried to zip tie it in place.
I was trying to undo it (the old style without the 32mm part), and it snapped the central pipe, and the right connector straight off.

I've no idea what to do, the car is stuck in my garage, and I don't know how I'm going to be able to fix this fecking thing.

Does anyone know of a garage/mobile mechanic near Andover?

[RPhoboS]

Right, I've take the housing off now and as you can see what's happened is the in/out pipe connections have completely broken.
Does anyone know if it's possible to remove/replace these push fit type of connectors ?

If not, I presume I'd need to replace the fuel lines from the pump to the filter, if so, do you know a part number ? (I can't work it on VIDA)

[Simmy]

no need for part nos quote model and vin no online to your volvo dealer try frf swansea or caffyns volvo in eastborne

[RPhoboS]

Cheers, I'll give them a call on Mon.

[mrfixer]

For your fuel pipes get the outside diameter cut it and extend it with push fit joints from a plumbers merchant

[RPhoboS]

Well I'm sure I won't the only person who gets shafted by this kind of thing.
So I opted to do it 'right' and no hacking of lines etc.
These are the part numbers:

31261002 - In pipe (in the middle of the filter)
31261003 - Out pipe (on the right of the fuel filter)
31342919 - Fuel filter housing

Whilst I'm waiting for parts to arrive, I took the old lines off, it wasn't as tricky as I expected it was going to be.

I watched a few videos of people changing fuel pumps on their Ford Focus' just to get a rough idea of what to do. I was contemplating just cutting a hole in the cabin to gain access to the top of the fuel tank but decided to try it the proper way first. What a bunch of aholes they are for deciding not to have a service hatch from the cabin.

Get the car up on axle stands.
Unclip the multitude of pipe connectors that hold the two lines together, you'll see that these lines go from the back of the tank to the front.
I pulled them down so they were dangling freely underneath the car with a container to catch the stinky diesel.
The out pipe is very easy to access, you'll see it from the front of the tank. I disconnected the red connector first, then I disconnected the OUT line (easier).
Now you'll also see that the IN pipe goes up to the top of the fuel tank to the pump.
Undo 2 plastic heat shield nut things (in my case 10mm).
Get a suitable jack with a flat piece of wood on top, I used a transmission jack a random piece of ikea wood just to help spread the load and balance easier. Raise the jack up to support the tank, undo the 3 x 10mm strap bolts (note they have a little blue loctite on them).
Remove the filler neck support bracket bolt (8mm), this'll give you some wiggle room on the filler pipe.
I didn't undo my filler pipe from the tank, I move it back maybe 5mm but decided it looked too annoying and it also didn't have a retaining clip on it holding it to the tank !
At this point I decided to lower the tank slowly, so that the filler pipe wasn't under stress. I got to a sweet point where I could get my hand up to the connector, push it in and pull it out !
Done.

So yep, reverse that for installation, not sure on the torque for the 3 strap bolts but I'll use some medium loctite on them and just feel it as I do them up. At a guess I'd imagine them to be around 30-40nm.