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Time to cut losses and get rid?

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Old Sep 24th, 2020, 14:22   #1
marckin01
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Default Time to cut losses and get rid?

Hi all.

Has come to that time where serious questions need to be asked if I keep my 2014 v60 d3 (72k miles) as bills are just mounting.

Had the car about 2 years and have had to replace tmap sensor and in July at its service there was oil in the coolant and needed a new oil cooler (£420).

Now at its mot (which it passed) I asked the garage to investigate the horrendous noise coming from the engine every time I accelerate. Initially the volvo specialist had said it was likely a exhaust manifold gasket and was looking at £700 to replace. However, further inspection shows a sheered bolt/stud in the cylinder head..... Recommended to budget £2000(!!!) to fix it.

Has the time come to wash my hands and move on?
Are there any "cheaper" was to resolve the cylinder head issue? I really like the car but it has been a bit of a money pit....
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Old Sep 24th, 2020, 14:56   #2
Sotosound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marckin01 View Post
Hi all.

Has come to that time where serious questions need to be asked if I keep my 2014 v60 d3 (72k miles) as bills are just mounting.

Had the car about 2 years and have had to replace tmap sensor and in July at its service there was oil in the coolant and needed a new oil cooler (£420).

Now at its mot (which it passed) I asked the garage to investigate the horrendous noise coming from the engine every time I accelerate. Initially the volvo specialist had said it was likely a exhaust manifold gasket and was looking at £700 to replace. However, further inspection shows a sheered bolt/stud in the cylinder head..... Recommended to budget £2000(!!!) to fix it.

Has the time come to wash my hands and move on?
Are there any "cheaper" was to resolve the cylinder head issue? I really like the car but it has been a bit of a money pit....
The problem is that you might have to fix the car in order to be able to move it on.

So decision time is more likely to come post-repair.

Having said that, it does sound like a problem car.

I'd also be asking how a cylinder head bolt might sheer unless the head has been off for some reason and the mechanic over-tightened that bolt after putting the head back on.

Did the car come with any useful history when you purchased it, or do you only have stamps in the service record? I'd want to find out what was done to it and when under previous ownership so as to be able to make a more informed decision.

Also, out of curiosity, what trim level is it and what engine does it have, 5-cylinder or 4-cylinder. Also, is it manual or automatic and what is its mileage? Finally, is it in good nick? These things will all affect its resale value.
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Old Sep 24th, 2020, 15:47   #3
marckin01
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Thanks for the reply.

I have spoken with a garage and hopefully get a straight forward trade in even with the noise.....guessing it will go to auction. But if any issues then will look to fix it then decide what to do.

It was an approved used and has been serviced by either volvo or a volvo specialist. No additional history was provided. Tbh I doubt that there would be any come back as it is out of warranty and likely impossible to prove any fault.

It a 5 cyl manual. Yes is in very good condition with only minor alloy damage.... Body work is very good.

Shall just wait and see what comes of it all..... Just frustrating that such a 'simple' problem is crazy expensive to fix.
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Old Sep 24th, 2020, 16:15   #4
Ian21401
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Default The sheared bolt.

Is it a cylinder head bolt or a manifold bolt/stud in the cylinder head?
If it’s a manifold stud then that may explain the initial diagnosis of a manifold problem. Remove manifold, replace any defective studs, refit manifold with new gasket. Not expensive parts, costs mostly labour. Don’t see how that would cost £700.
Possibly garage offer you poor trade in value because of the “problem” then fix it for peanuts and sell it on.
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Last edited by Ian21401; Sep 24th, 2020 at 16:18. Reason: Add text.
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Old Sep 24th, 2020, 16:33   #5
marckin01
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Thanks Ian.
The report I received said the o/s manifold bolt was broken inside the cylinder head. I have been informed that the engine would have to be taken out to be able to fix this. Does this sound right?
Thanks
Marc
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Old Sep 24th, 2020, 18:23   #6
Ian21401
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This query would be best moved to the relevant section.
I’m not very familiar with Volvo’s diesel engines as my car is an old 940 petrol with the engine mounted in line, which means that removing the manifold with the engine in situ is child’s play. During my ownership I have had to replace a couple of the exhaust manifold studs.
However, my daughter has an XC70 D5 and if I remember correctly the exhaust manifold is on the back of the engine between the engine and the bulkhead. This being the case I suspect that it would be rather difficult, but not impossible, to remove the exhaust manifold with the engine in situ, depending on the particular engine, but even this would involve the removal of certain other components. If there was sufficient of the offending stud still proud of the cylinder head then it MAY be possible to remove it and insert a replacement, BUT, if, as you state the stud has snapped within the cylinder head then I suspect that the engine would have to be removed to give sufficient access to enable the remains of the stud to be carefully removed. It is possible that it would need to be drilled out then the threads would need to be examined/cleaned before inserting the new stud. That could explain the high cost.
However, if you like the car enough and it is in otherwise good condition, balance the cost of that repair being done properly, against the cost of a replacement.
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Last edited by Ian21401; Sep 24th, 2020 at 18:51. Reason: Add text.
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Old Sep 24th, 2020, 23:10   #7
marckin01
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Thanks again Ian. Yes from what I've read and seen online you are correct with the manifold being difficult to locate. A lot of work needs done to get to the bolt. The noise is very loud and annoying albeit I've been informed not doing any damage to the car. I'm surprised that there is no way to seal around the offending area....even just as a quick stop gap. Thanks again for your advice and assistance.
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Old Sep 25th, 2020, 11:48   #8
Ian21401
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Your welcome. Sorry I couldn’t actually offer you a solution. I hope that you eventually manage to resolve the problem to your satisfaction.
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Old Sep 25th, 2020, 13:30   #9
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Originally Posted by marckin01 View Post
... I'm surprised that there is no way to seal around the offending area....even just as a quick stop gap...
I had a similar problem with a leaking gasket on the inlet manifold of a 940, my stopgap solution was to squidge exhaust paste into the gap, it would probably need a bit of time to set before starting the engine and creating pressure in the exhaust manifold and may not last as well as the inlet side which would have been trying to suck the paste in rather than blow it out.

As for 'is it time to get rid?', only you can answer that for you, there's all the arguments about 'better the car you know' and 'anything you buy could need repairs', but then I've got shot of a couple of cars which would have been repairable except that I'd got fed up with them and couldn't be bothered to get them fixed. The question then is 'what would you replace it with?' but if it's still going you've got time to look around and find a car you'll love.
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Old Sep 25th, 2020, 21:53   #10
marckin01
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Thanks David. I might give that a try with the exhaust paste.. Nothing to lose. Yes I understand what your saying.i do like the car still so it may be I end up getting it fixed and keep it. No rush to decide so that's good. Many thanks for your assistance.
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