144 (Jane) off to the restorer's on Monday for surgery! - Page 3

80sRich · Oct 7th, 2010, 00:47

Hi, thanks for the tips guys, now I will be the first to admit I have no idea what I am talking about, but from my memory all the rusty metal was cut out of that rear wheel arch. That is quite an old picture now, I'll just be pleased to get it back after so long. Just have to hope my new garage for it is built in time!

Derek UK · Oct 7th, 2010, 11:29

I'm always very dubious when I see repairs made that only appear to be held together with dabs of weld. Some here are getting on for 2" apart. Is it the norm now to not have a continuous weld and rely on the filler to hold it all together? "Filler" shouldn't actually be that, should just be for smoothing and light levelling. If you skim "filler" over this type of repair you may well end up, after sanding down, with it paper thin where it bridges the gaps. That won't be a very good base for the paint. Don't press on those areas too hard!

80sRich · Oct 14th, 2010, 22:23

So went to see it today to take up some parts for them to finish it off. Took a few pictures as well.
I am very very pleased with how it looks. Should be done next week.

The guys were very pleased to get their hands on the new sports exhaust from Brookhouse.

ALLOA · Oct 15th, 2010, 08:02

Hi! Thanks for the pics & I hope that the wait to get it back on the road has been worth it. I'm just about to start on my 1970 140. I'm planning to rebuild the suspension over the winter, do any welding required and then get some paint on to it for the Spring. There are some bubbles of rust along the windscreen trim but hopefully this will only be on the surface (famous last words!)
I'll get some pics up when I start.

Cheers

Scott

80sRich · Oct 20th, 2010, 23:20

Popped up there today to give them some cash and took a picture whilst I was there (see below).

Was booked in for it's MOT at 2pm. (The guys were taking care of that as an apology for having the car so long).

Shouldn't be too long now!

john h · Oct 21st, 2010, 06:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALLOA

I'm just about to start on my 1970 140. I'm planning to rebuild the suspension over the winter, do any welding required and then get some paint on to it for the Spring.

Excellent - look forward to the photos

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALLOA

There are some bubbles of rust along the windscreen trim but hopefully this will only be on the surface (famous last words!)

Mmm... best of luck with that - but it won't be!

John

john h · Oct 21st, 2010, 06:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by 80sRich

Popped up there today to give them some cash and took a picture whilst I was there (see below).

Was booked in for it's MOT at 2pm. (The guys were taking care of that as an apology for having the car so long).

Shouldn't be too long now!

Great, nearly there then. (I hope they haven't lost the doors...)

John

80sRich · Apr 18th, 2011, 20:15

So 13 months later I finally have her back.
See attached photograph.

The bad news is that it has been keyed on the drivers door and the bonnet so it needs to go back to the restorer when he has the paint remapped.

Somewhere on the restoration the boot rubber and drivers door rubber have gone missing so I shall be ordering replacement ones from Amazon cars tomorrow.

Also, and this is something I might need help with, the fuel gauge and temperature gauge have both stopped working. I have tested both ends against the body work and neither gauge showed anything. Should I assume that something the restorer has done has ruined both gauges and just order new ones (if available?)

As usual all help welcome.

I'll upload more pictures when I have the camera out.

laptoprob · Apr 23rd, 2011, 06:29

Wow. Just wow.

About the gauges: check the wiring at the back of the clock-block. It's fiddly to get it out, but on mine one of the connecting wire clips was damaged.
If both gauges stop working at the same time, I don't believe the gauges are faulty. Not likely anyway.

cheers, Rob

Dibble · Apr 23rd, 2011, 22:16

Hi Rich, your car looking well. Presumably you got your MOT. I thought my Amazon would have been on the road by this time but it seems to be dragging on and so I am trying to be very patient. She is looking well but might still be a couple of weeks before I get her MOT'd. This is the problem with having to wait for my friends with the necessary skills. How I admire those guys who can do it all without having to rely on others.
Soon. Very soon! How I am looking forward to driving her on the road. I have named her Ulla after Ulla at Volvo HQ, Gothenburg who has been very helpful in supplying me with information on the car - and it sounds a lovely Swedish girls name.

Apr 23rd, 2011, 06:29	#29
laptoprob Member Last Online: Sep 3rd, 2020 15:58 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Haarlem	Wow Wow. Just wow. About the gauges: check the wiring at the back of the clock-block. It's fiddly to get it out, but on mine one of the connecting wire clips was damaged. If both gauges stop working at the same time, I don't believe the gauges are faulty. Not likely anyway. cheers, Rob

Oct 7th, 2010, 00:47	#21
80sRich Member Last Online: May 28th, 2023 18:01 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portsmouth	Hi, thanks for the tips guys, now I will be the first to admit I have no idea what I am talking about, but from my memory all the rusty metal was cut out of that rear wheel arch. That is quite an old picture now, I'll just be pleased to get it back after so long. Just have to hope my new garage for it is built in time!

Oct 7th, 2010, 11:29	#22
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 17:06 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	I'm always very dubious when I see repairs made that only appear to be held together with dabs of weld. Some here are getting on for 2" apart. Is it the norm now to not have a continuous weld and rely on the filler to hold it all together? "Filler" shouldn't actually be that, should just be for smoothing and light levelling. If you skim "filler" over this type of repair you may well end up, after sanding down, with it paper thin where it bridges the gaps. That won't be a very good base for the paint. Don't press on those areas too hard!

Oct 15th, 2010, 08:02	#24
ALLOA Master Member Last Online: Yesterday 06:59 Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: ALLOA	Hi! Thanks for the pics & I hope that the wait to get it back on the road has been worth it. I'm just about to start on my 1970 140. I'm planning to rebuild the suspension over the winter, do any welding required and then get some paint on to it for the Spring. There are some bubbles of rust along the windscreen trim but hopefully this will only be on the surface (famous last words!) I'll get some pics up when I start. Cheers Scott

Apr 23rd, 2011, 22:16	#30
Dibble VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 20:52 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Cupar, Fife	Hi Rich, your car looking well. Presumably you got your MOT. I thought my Amazon would have been on the road by this time but it seems to be dragging on and so I am trying to be very patient. She is looking well but might still be a couple of weeks before I get her MOT'd. This is the problem with having to wait for my friends with the necessary skills. How I admire those guys who can do it all without having to rely on others. Soon. Very soon! How I am looking forward to driving her on the road. I have named her Ulla after Ulla at Volvo HQ, Gothenburg who has been very helpful in supplying me with information on the car - and it sounds a lovely Swedish girls name.

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