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400 Series General Forum for the Volvo 440, 460 and 480 cars |
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cold running problemsViews : 712 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 29th, 2007, 19:27 | #1 |
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Last Online: Jun 10th, 2010 07:09
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Location: southampton
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cold running problems
hi to everyone, don't know if you can help, i own an 1989 gli 440, had her 5 years never had a problem until this year when the cold whether started, when she's cold starts first time but runs as if on 3 cylinders, when you start to drive its as if the fourth cylinder wants to come in then goes so the car starts jumping, this will go on until you reach normal temp, BUT if you turn her off after a couple of minutes and leave it for say 10-15 minutes start her again she's fine as if nothing wrong ??, i was told it could be the idle regulater valve so tested this with 12v supply and it works fine, but when you test the wires to this unit your getting no voltage at all with key on, is this the norm and power goes to this unit at a later stage or is this my problem, if so how can i rectify it, is a relay gone if so which one
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Jan 30th, 2007, 11:50 | #2 |
440IFIED
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could be spark plugs or leads when it happenned on mine i took a lead of to see wheather it made a diff anyway long story short badly corroded lead end (it was blue and crumbled) so try leads plugs
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Jan 30th, 2007, 17:01 | #3 |
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Last Online: Jun 10th, 2010 07:09
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hi hoff,sorry tried new plugs and leads over xmas no difference ?
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Jan 30th, 2007, 17:38 | #4 |
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Last Online: Apr 17th, 2023 20:49
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Location: Newquay
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Have you checked the distributer cap and rota arm? If not look at the 4 contacts inside the cap and the contact on the rota arm - even when not very old they can be dirty or have a light coating of corrosion. This had happened a couple of times to me causing exactly the problem that you describe!
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Past Volvos 340's (2), 240 saloons (4), 240 estates (5), 740 estate (1), 760 saloon (1), 940 saloon (1), 940 estate (1) |
Jan 30th, 2007, 18:43 | #5 |
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Last Online: Jul 27th, 2019 19:17
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Location: belmont, durham
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Distributer cap and rotor arms can be a problem, have had a new one fail
and crack just after 1500 miles. You could try looking in the fault code memory which might narrow it down. |
Jan 30th, 2007, 18:58 | #6 |
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cheers guys, i'll check the distributer cap out in the morning, also i have been told it could be the tempreture sensor thats telling the ECU its hot when its not ? makes good sence never thought of it, will keep you all posted
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Feb 6th, 2007, 19:01 | #7 |
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Last Online: Jun 10th, 2010 07:09
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sorry been so long guys, i checked out the distriuber cap and rotor both completely shot, fitted new ones turn the key and purrs at 900 rpm went for a drive runs great, no more jumping or messing around, A BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE
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Feb 6th, 2007, 19:22 | #8 |
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Last Online: Jul 27th, 2019 19:17
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Location: belmont, durham
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I was once told if you disconnected some sensors or relays while having
the ignition on that it would cause a fault to be stored in the memory fault code DATA LINK , and if this was to happen to many times the faults could act on each other. Do not no if this is true or not , but could be a good idea to clear memory fault codes regular. |
Feb 6th, 2007, 19:49 | #9 | |
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Quote:
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Feb 7th, 2007, 18:33 | #10 |
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Last Online: Jul 27th, 2019 19:17
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: belmont, durham
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yes you are correct , they came out in 1990.
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