Handbrake woes

[Simmy]

adjust the adjusters though the wheel bolt holes with a screwdriver make sure that the new cables are instaled corectly in the shoe spreaders

[JoeNinety]

You really do not need the adjusters if you are fitting new cables, but as you already have them....


Oh, I squirted a goodly amount of WD40 into the cable casing, and pressed plenty of grease into the end and area that clips into the backplate (and then around the outsides once clipped in)

If you have a seized cable you will wonder how it ever worked at all!!

[lynns hubby]

I cant believe how annoying these handbrakes are. I have had several 240s and 940s over the years and never had the chew on it is to change the shoes that our latest XC 70 has given me.
I checked everything out and adjusted when I read about the De-lamination issues on here and all was well for around 6 months, then the handbrake slowly started to lose grip, even though it was adjusted correctly.
Gave in and bought new shoes and the adjusters as recommended by some folk on here. New set of springs and a couple of hours and everything is good again.
The shoes were not worn (they are only used to hold the car on inclines) I am sure my cables were not stretched, they were definitely not seized, H/Brake was adjusted to come up 4 or 5 clicks which was fine for a little while but then slowly started to lose grip.What ever I did only lasted a few months until I changed everything for new.

[stuart bowes]

annoying is one word for it. the others have to be used out of earshot of the kids

I even got my dad involved because he remembers the days when all brakes were the pant-browning shoe and drum combination and he might have been able to offer some words of wisdom.. those words turned out to be something along the lines of 'my what a not-very-good design' or words to that effect

surely though once I've done the cables all this will be just one of those car horror stories I can relate to the grand-children

I'm getting a weird knocking noise as well, i haven't brought it up above because I'm not sure if it's just coincidence that it started happening when I started messing about with the handbrake. have also recently changed drop links (wondering if now the roll-bar bushes showing symptoms) and added subframe bush inserts (wondering how much more I can tighten the bolts before they go ping)

[stuart bowes]

Originally Posted by Simmy

adjust the adjusters though the wheel bolt holes with a screwdriver make sure that the new cables are instaled corectly in the shoe spreaders

I have tinkered a little bit but I dont think that's going to help, as said before I can get it to the point where I can hear the drum rubbing on the shoe but the other side (cable/expander) still needs to operate fully for it to work

[stuart bowes]

what IS weird though, when I apply the handbrake with the wheel off, I can put two bolts halfway in and use bar to try and turn the hub, it's a real struggle but it does move. then when you release it frees up again

so something is definitely working.. but back to same issue of handle end being wound up to full tightness and the clicking all the way up to nearly vertical - so again, possible cable issue. doesnt hurt to replace it I guess

[100K+]

Thinking out loud and fire extinguisher at the ready - something to consider. Most P2 cars may now be on 2nd/3rd set of handbrake cables???. If the wrong one has been fitted in the past, there are several ( I think AWD one's are longer least that's what I found ) the standard front wheel drive models may have one long/one short cable and no matter how good the "adjustment/fitting" is, you will never get a good handbrake. Add to this I believe the inner cable even when so called "seized" has a very limited amount of movement, again you will not get an even pull on both wheels. Someone said if the handbrake set up is correctly fitted and adjusted the handbrake is excellent.
Having renewed recently cables/springs/shoes I have to say I'm in total agreement - and I have had woeful handbrake braking in the past. Its just a matter of biting the bullet and replacing cables in pairs ( correctly) - cos I did that incorrectly for several years too, even though I believed I'd fitted them correctly.



Cheers
Bob

[lynns hubby]

"I'm getting a weird knocking noise as well, i haven't brought it up above because I'm not sure if it's just coincidence that it started happening when I started messing about with the handbrake. have also recently changed drop links (wondering if now the roll-bar bushes showing symptoms) and added subframe bush inserts (wondering how much more I can tighten the bolts before they go ping) "


Stuart, I had exactly the same knocking as you describe after I first set to with my handbrake shoes. Sounded like an end link rod balljoint knock every time I went over a bumpy road.

Checked every the rear suspension bush and joint and even replaced both end link rods for new as I was so convinced that was the noise although they both appeared fine with no play. This made no difference the noise continued.
When I eventually got round to fitting the new handbrake shoes I found one of the springs had broken. Replaced everything for new and was amazed on my test drive that the knocking noise had gone. I am still amazed that such a small spring could make that sort of sound.
If you haven't got them yet, just ensure you get a full fitting kit. Kit is only a few quid.
let us know how you get on.

[stuart bowes]

That was my assumption at first, and I wasnt too worried, then I replaced all the springs and the noise still carries on..

I'm wondering if it's either because the cable is slack, although the noise carries on if I drive along with the handle pulled up tight... or maybe I've seated the shoes wrong somehow 3 times in a row which seems unlikely

Well anyway I'm waiting for new cables so I guess that's rebuild no 4. If that's still no good I'll try Volvo own brand shoes maybe they fit better as advised above. Failing that I'll have no choice but to give it to the garage which I hate doing

Thanks for confirming the noise though it definitely does sound suspension or ball joint related

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by damageandy

Id also fit the manual adjusters while at it, a few say they are not needed and its a bodge, but most people who live in the real world think they are great.

Echo the sentiment above, they makes adjusting the shoes easy + you lose the "rock/roll back on a hill" movement. My hand brake now is full applied at three to four clicks, holds without problem on local steep hills and is fully off when released.

I bought the ones on my T5 from FRF a few years ago to fit in my then Torslanda P2 but never got round to fitting them as I never had rear shoe problems - at the time I think they were around £13 or £14 for the pair + P&P,
Current price on PFS is £7.37 each (https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...cts_id=8664)so probably still cheaper with the FRF discount once you factor in delivery charges.