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Rear pad/disc replacement with EPB

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Old May 21st, 2018, 20:22   #1
smarkc
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Default Rear pad/disc replacement with EPB

Hi there,

Hopefully not too stupid a question....

I've read the guide to complete this without using a service tool and all looks good (thanks 'I-S') however I guess the EPB needs to be dis-engaged throughout the process- so with this in mind jacking up one side at a time might present some safety issues or am i missing something?

Many thanks

(Dealer wanted £360 for rear pads/discs which seemed a lot)
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Old May 21st, 2018, 20:27   #2
GrahamBrown1
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I would just chock the other rear wheel and have the car in gear. Of corse proper lifting gear on stable ground goes without saying
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Old May 21st, 2018, 21:30   #3
smarkc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1 View Post
I would just chock the other rear wheel and have the car in gear. Of corse proper lifting gear on stable ground goes without saying
Thanks for the quick response. Excuse my ignorance - which gear would be best to leave in if it's an auto? (It's a 2012 x70awd). I'm used to a manual v70mk1 but am doing this for my mother.
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Old May 21st, 2018, 22:05   #4
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With an auto you leave it in P. Transmission is locked and this is the default position to be able to switch off the ignition in any case.

If you want an alternative to the manual rewind of the pistons you could read the following thread, starting at post #8 which gives you a method using a spare car battery or small 9v battery.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...+rear+pads+epb
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Old May 21st, 2018, 23:27   #5
Semnoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smarkc View Post
Hi there,

Hopefully not too stupid a question....

I've read the guide to complete this without using a service tool and all looks good (thanks 'I-S') however I guess the EPB needs to be dis-engaged throughout the process- so with this in mind jacking up one side at a time might present some safety issues or am i missing something?

Many thanks

(Dealer wanted £360 for rear pads/discs which seemed a lot)
When I did mine I rested the rear subframe on axle stands and fitted chocks to the front wheels (knocked under the tyres lightly with a mallet). Perfectly stable as far as I'm concerned.
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 08:56   #6
I-S
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Park and Chocks.

And you're welcome.
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 19:28   #7
apersson850
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Chocks at the front, though, as some said. If you lift at the rear, then the front wheels are those with best ground contact.
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 20:28   #8
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You can do one side at a time no issues. As other said, leave it in Park and chock the other wheel up.
If you use a second car battery or 9V battery to wind the EPB back in i'd reiterate that it WON'T also wind the piston back in as I thought it might.
Once you've wound the EPB back a bit you'll need a standard brake wind back tool (Or a decent G-clamp) to wind the piston back!

Hope that helps!
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Old May 23rd, 2018, 08:53   #9
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But the piston can be just pushed, as it has no thread. You don't have to turn it around to get it back, as some systems require.
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Old May 23rd, 2018, 11:57   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobsy852 View Post
If you use a second car battery or 9V battery to wind the EPB back in i'd reiterate that it WON'T also wind the piston back in as I thought it might.
Once you've wound the EPB back a bit you'll need a standard brake wind back tool (Or a decent G-clamp) to wind the piston back!

Hope that helps!
This is the same whichever way you do it - a/with vida, b/ remove electric motor and use a torx key, or, c/ use a battery.
You definitely DO NOT need a wind-back tool. You can use a g-cramp but I usually use a small pry bar/large screwdriver between the caliper and the pad (there is often a small indent in the caliper for this purpose) and then a piece of wood between the disk and piston if it needs to go further.
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