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Fitting flying saucer tie bar/control arm bushes

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Old May 22nd, 2019, 11:38   #11
griston64
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If you haven't ordered the rear arm bushes yet I also have new ones of those Don
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Last edited by griston64; May 22nd, 2019 at 11:42. Reason: duplicate
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 11:41   #12
griston64
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If you haven't ordered the rear arm bushes yet I also have new ones of those Don

https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...oducts_id=3280
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 12:27   #13
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Originally Posted by griston64 View Post
If you haven't ordered the rear arm bushes yet I also have new ones of those Don

https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...oducts_id=3280
PM on way.
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 12:27   #14
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The washers are available from Volvo, part number 1359606. They'll cost more than those bushes.

Bolts are 985055.
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Old May 25th, 2019, 20:02   #15
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Just my tuppenth- The rear bushes on that control arm are normally pretty good. My 300,000 miler had her spaceship bushes changed not so long ago for the MOT. All was good with the rear bush.
Point of advice, If you want a longer lasting bush, Take the arm that those bushes fit into, out, And hammer hell out of the mating face for the bush. Chip as much rust as you can out as possible and wire brush it up good.

Don't wire brush the rust, You'll only polish up the crust of it. You need to hit and chip the rust off. A 2 inch wire wheel on a battery drill will help immensely.
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Old May 27th, 2019, 10:20   #16
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The rear bush on the arm I took off did look fine but as I said the one on the other side looks to be twisted in the housing so I will replace them both so I know they are sorted. The rear bushes have arrived from Mark but I am now looking to invest in a bearing/bush pull/push kit to make life easy, it can also be used on my Jag and my friends cars so will be a worthwhile investment. Good point about the rust, when I do the bushes I will get the arms in a vice and give them a good clean up.
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Old May 27th, 2019, 10:52   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeh View Post
Point of advice, If you want a longer lasting bush, Take the arm that those bushes fit into, out, And hammer hell out of the mating face for the bush. Chip as much rust as you can out as possible and wire brush it up good.
Just to be clear, do you mean the chassis lugs the bush fits into?



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Originally Posted by besidetheseaside View Post
The rear bush on the arm I took off did look fine but as I said the one on the other side looks to be twisted in the housing so I will replace them both so I know they are sorted. The rear bushes have arrived from Mark but I am now looking to invest in a bearing/bush pull/push kit to make life easy, it can also be used on my Jag and my friends cars so will be a worthwhile investment. Good point about the rust, when I do the bushes I will get the arms in a vice and give them a good clean up.
Don - i might be wrong on this but i think he means the lugs on the chassis the bushes bolt into. Obviously give the control arm a good clean up and a squirt of paint to protect it after, i've often found a flap-wheel in a drill is great for cleaning up the inside of the hole the bush goes into followed by a smear of grease to help prevent rust long term and let the bush slide in easier.

Something else i've done to help fitting, particularly with things like wheel bearings is put the bearing (or in your case the bush) in the freezer overnight, put the housing part in the oven at 180C ish for an hour or so and usually the bearing just drops into place.

All depends on whether Mrs Besidetheseaside would let you do that of course!
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Old May 27th, 2019, 11:32   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Just to be clear, do you mean the chassis lugs the bush fits into?





Don - i might be wrong on this but i think he means the lugs on the chassis the bushes bolt into. Obviously give the control arm a good clean up and a squirt of paint to protect it after, i've often found a flap-wheel in a drill is great for cleaning up the inside of the hole the bush goes into followed by a smear of grease to help prevent rust long term and let the bush slide in easier.

Something else i've done to help fitting, particularly with things like wheel bearings is put the bearing (or in your case the bush) in the freezer overnight, put the housing part in the oven at 180C ish for an hour or so and usually the bearing just drops into place.

All depends on whether Mrs Besidetheseaside would let you do that of course!
I think he means the dished surface where the flying saucer bushes fit into to be honest, I will get a good finish on them when I have them on the bench.
Used the hot cold method on the Jag recently when I did the fulcrum bearings, put the outer race in the freezer and warmed the rear hub up with a blowtorch, it makes the job so much easier
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Old May 27th, 2019, 11:44   #19
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeh View Post
Just my tuppenth- The rear bushes on that control arm are normally pretty good. My 300,000 miler had her spaceship bushes changed not so long ago for the MOT. All was good with the rear bush.
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Originally Posted by besidetheseaside View Post
I think he means the dished surface where the flying saucer bushes fit into to be honest, I will get a good finish on them when I have them on the bench.
Used the hot cold method on the Jag recently when I did the fulcrum bearings, put the outer race in the freezer and warmed the rear hub up with a blowtorch, it makes the job so much easier
Looking at his opening sentence Don, i really, honestly think he means the rear/inner bush where the tie rod attaches to the chassis. The control arm is the one on the subframe to hub, it's located by the tie rod that the spaceship bushes go on the front/outer end of.

I can see it could be interpreted in two different ways and i might be proved wrong but on the front/outer end of the tie rod where the spaceship goes, you're fitting new washers and a new bolt so shouldn't be a problem there. When he points out that the spaceship bushes needed changing for the MoT but the rear (or inner depending on how you view it) bush was ok, that points towards it being where the tie rod attaches to the chassis.

The reason i suggested the oven is because it gives a more even heat but some bits you can't get in there or would be prohibitive to remove, hence the blowtorch.
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Old May 27th, 2019, 12:25   #20
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Quote:
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The reason i suggested the oven is because it gives a more even heat but some bits you can't get in there or would be prohibitive to remove, hence the blowtorch.
Just couldn't quite fit my back axle into the oven......
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