Trigger the 940lpt

[griston64]

Poor old Trigger got left in the street as I drove the V70 down South yesterday.
She looks pretty cold and miserable

Not a day to be working outside

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Think I'll be cleaning and feeding the leather interior I picked up yesterday and then get all the suspension parts ready for shotblasting

[Forrest]

For those conditions it’s got to be the 940. Fit winter tyres and it will get you anywhere.

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Forrest

For those conditions it’s got to be the 940. Fit winter tyres and it will get you anywhere.

I have Goodyear Vector all season on and they seem to fine in the snow so far

When I get my new refurbished wheels back I may put full winters on the Adhara's and use them as winter wheels

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by griston64

Think I'll get all the suspension parts ready for shotblasting

Hmmmm, do you have an old fashioned battery charger Mark or one of these new fangled allegedly "smart" chargers?

If you've got an old fashioned one, a few tubs big enough to submerse the various suspension parts, you can electrolytically derust and clean them for almost nothing. It's also non-agressive so won't blast holes in things that are getting thin, in fact it will deposit fresh steel onto it making it stronger.

Gather the tub, parts, battery charger, enough hot water to submerse the part(s) and some soda crystals/washing soda and some old bits of scrap steel. Some wire of some description might be useful too.

Connect a piece of wire to a piece of scrap steel - ideally this needs to be a similar total area to the part - bigger is fine, smaller is ok but not so good. Use the wire to suspend the sacrificial anode (piece of scrap steel) on one side of the tub and connect the +ve croc clip from the battery charger to it.
Take another piece of wire and connect it to the part and suspend it fairly centrally, or if it's to one side, be prepared to turn it halfway through.
Connect the batery charger -ve croc clip to this wire. Add a generous handful of soda crystals to the tub and fill with enough hot water to submerse the part, now switch the battery charger on.

It should show some current draw - leave it overnight and prepare to be amazed the next morning! All the rust should be gone, if you've had it to one side of the tub, you may need to turn it round so the other side gets "cooked" too. Rinse off with the garden hose when it's out and then put it in the oven at about 70-80C for about an hour to dry it and degas it.

Then paint your parts that are once again like new.

Worth noting this won't work on aluminium, just steel but i've saved many components this way over the years.

It won't harm any existing plating on the part such as chrome plate but will remove paint.

You're probably ahead of me at this point, don't let the parts touch inside the tub as they will short out the battery charger, you can move them closer together to speed the reaction up but obviously go careful!

[griston64]

I'm worried this might happen !!


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Seriously though I'm going to see what results i get with the wire brush attachment on the angle grinder first

[griston64]

Cleaned and fed the small rear bolster this morning Came up really well and the Gliptone has a lovely smell of leather

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So much easier to do when not in the car as well

[griston64]

Parts are in pretty good nick Dave. I think the wire brush might do the job ok.

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I'm getting new ball joints and droplinks so be nice to get it all looking like new

[griston64]

10 mins with the angle grinder and wire brush produced this

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I think I can get the parts back to new with wire brush. I will then paint with POR15

[griston64]

I managed to get the nut off and then remove the spaceship bushes. Funny but they look well shot from the outside but still not that much play.

They were pretty well welded in and left a lot of crap in the control arm. All cleaned up now but the wire brush attachment has about 3 strands left on it

It will be keeping me busy for the rest of the week

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[griston64]

My control arms and strut rods are just about there cleanliness wise and the next step will be to paint them

I'm thinking etch primer followed by Eastwood high gloss extreme chassis black

I was going to use POR15 but that binds better to rough surfaces with slight rust so not the best now they are super clean

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Arb to do next which should be fairly easy

Once that is done and I get my new ball joints,track rod ends etc the suspension re-build can begin

I'm going pretty standard with Bilstein B4 all round but possibly a slight lowering although I'm not 100% sure on that yet

Getting there !