940 knocking from underneath !!!

[besidetheseaside]

Here is a picture of the bush less gear linkage bolt.

Quick question, going to order some bolts that bolt the centre bearing plate to the chassis, 8mm thread ????

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by besidetheseaside

Here is a picture of the bush less gear linkage bolt.

Quick question, going to order some bolts that bolt the centre bearing plate to the chassis, 8mm thread ????

I'm not sure Don, if memory serves they are flanged bolts with a 13mm hex head which would suggest M10 thread. Normally a 13mm hex head goes with an M8 thread on normal bolts but i've found on flanged bolts, the hex head size is usually the "next down" for normal sizes.

This might explain it better :

Thread size Normal hex head Flanged hex head
M8 13mm 10mm
M10 17mm 13mm
M12 19mm 17mm
M14 22mm 19mm
M16 24mm 22mm

They're also quite short, about 15mm thread length, maybe a little shorter. Might pay to contact your Volvo dealer for those specific bolts if you really want to change them. Something in the back of my mind is saying also they're high tensile, either 8.8 or 10.9 but i might be thinking of something else.

[AllHailKingVolvo]

This is super interesting stuff, your car will be smooth as silk once all of those bits are taken care of!

[besidetheseaside]

Smooth as silk.... well almost

So 5 hours on the ramp yesterday, too hot though and our combined ages, Volvo 26, me 61, my mate 69, meant we were a bit worn out at the end.....

Gearbox linkage rod bolt, bolt was rusted on and spacer bush was conspicuous by its absence, sloppy gear lever was the result, new bolt and spacer fitted, gear lever action now a lot more positive with a smoother action, sorted.

Rear gearbox rubber mount, support gearbox, undo centre nut, remove mounting plate complete with mount, remove mount, fit new mount and refit plate to car, sorted.

Prop centre bearing, mark prop and output plate so they go back in the same place, undo prop bolts, loosen bearing housing nuts, undo bearing mounting plate bolts, drop prop front section and plate and bearing down as a unit. Old housing was shattered, bonding had separated so no wonder it was noisy. Got it on the bench and after cutting off the rubber we were able to get a 3 legged puller on the remnants and it pulled off the prop easily. Recovered the washers, cleaned the prop up, washer first then housing then tap the bearing in. This is when it got fraught..... we did not have a socket big enough to tap the bearing in using the inner race. Anyway 30 minutes later I have one in my oily mitts and we bashed it in, little concerned that it was a little stiff to turn but we were fed up by then and carried on. So outer washer fitted, rubber boot fitted onto the rear section shaft splines (still on the car ) and we refitted the prop with some difficulty at first, maybe we were not pushing hard enough, supported it to fit the plate, bolted everything up with marks aligned, all tightened up, sorted.

Well almost....... noticed a roughness on slow acceleration, not sure if it was there before, difficult to describe, not vibration, more a shake Anyway only been in traffic today no high speed stuff, but lack of vibration and thumping noise means I have hopefully done something right. I will get it back on the ramp and loosen the plate and bearing housing bolts and retighten so it can settle itself in.

In the meantime I am still getting a knocking tapping noise from the front, I actually think that it is steering related but have checked everything and cannot find any play so the investigation continues on that front.

Gearbox plate bolts looked to be high tensile so re-used them, centre bearing plate bolts were replaced with flanged stainless bolts as the originals were scrap, for reference, 15mm long under flange and 8mm thread.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Either way, get one that comes complete with the bracket, when you fit it, take it for a test drive after. If you get any vibration, note what speed it occurs at.
Return to base, slacken the 4 bolts that secure the bracket to the floorpan by no more than 1/2 a turn.
Now take it for a short, gentle test drive so you just get up to the speed the vibration occurred then return to base and tighten the 4 bolts evenly, a little at a time in turn and retest. All should now be ok, if not, repeat.

Originally Posted by besidetheseaside

Well almost....... noticed a roughness on slow acceleration, not sure if it was there before, difficult to describe, not vibration, more a shake Anyway only been in traffic today no high speed stuff, but lack of vibration and thumping noise means I have hopefully done something right. I will get it back on the ramp and loosen the plate and bearing housing bolts and retighten so it can settle itself in.

Didn't want to type it out a second time so quoted myself Don!

Sounds a good job jobbed, give my method above a go and you should be right.

[besidetheseaside]

Thanks Dave, I will do that once our old bodies have recovered

[Laird Scooby]

I know that feeling Don!

[besidetheseaside]

So quick lie down on my gravel drive, ouch, backed off the bolts half a turn, drove the car round the block, noticed an immediate difference, back home and nipped them up, sorted.

Now onto the front end.... it is clicking more than a clicking thing at a clicking convention

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by besidetheseaside

So quick lie down on my gravel drive, ouch, backed off the bolts half a turn, drove the car round the block, noticed an immediate difference, back home and nipped them up, sorted.

Now onto the front end.... it is clicking more than a clicking thing at a clicking convention

Glad your prop vibe is sorted Don!

Front end - have you checked the space ship bushes and anti-roll bar drop links? Both caused a lot of noise on mine, the spaceships were more of a knock but the ARB drop links were more of a heavy tapping which i suppose could be called clicking.

Good way of getting a pointer to which (or both) ARB links is if you have speed humps nearby with bits of level road so you can keep one wheel level and the other has to go over the speed hump - sometimes means driving on the wrong side of the road but if it's not busy, not a problem.
I find it's easier with both front windows open, drive over the speed hump and whichever wheel makes the noise when it goes over the hump is the one with the dodgy ARB drop link.

A quick way of getting a nod in the direction of the spaceship bushes is to reverse and hit the brakes, if the noise is replicated from one or both sides, drive forwards sharply, again listening for the noise to be replicated.

A final inspection before condemning the bushes is always a good call but whichever ones are playing up, do the axle set - 2 drop links or 4 spaceships - kits are available on fleabay and similar with either 2 drop links or 4 spaceships. Might pay to do both of them while you're at it.

There could be other sources of suspension noise and also worth checking the brake pads and caliper mounting bolts and all other suspension bolts/bushes/ball joints and even the springs and shock absorber strut securing collar (visible at full drop of the wheel on the jacks at the top end of the strut) as any/all of these can cause noise.

[besidetheseaside]

I replaced the ARB bushes and the ARB drop link arms earlier on this year, but I will revisit them to make sure of no play. You have me on the spaceship bushes though, where and what are they ??

Edit, Right found out what they are, the reverse and brake test will be done this afternoon but it does appear to be happening on braking.