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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Driveshafts and Motor/Gearbox mountsViews : 2878 Replies : 41Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 17th, 2020, 17:28 | #21 | |
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Aug 17th, 2020, 20:54 | #22 | |
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Glad its out of focus thought ,I was a bit snowball 2.or dumb and dumber before the grinder !! Last edited by Bob 1967; Aug 17th, 2020 at 20:56. |
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Aug 20th, 2020, 17:25 | #23 |
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Engine /Gearbox mounts
Just a quick update .Pictures and more detail to follow.
Gearbox mount ,tried this 1st (should have done engine 1st!) Was a pig to fit ,wouldn't line up ,so left bolts for crossmember loose. Today I started engine mounts . The rubber mounts were sheared and while trying to replace I could see the holes were at least 1 inch to the right along with the whole engine !!! Hours of struggle ensued trying to reposition the engine . Eventually (after many ,many expletives) I had no option but to kick the 3 ton jack supporting the engine and it seemed to do the trick. More to follow. Bob. |
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Aug 20th, 2020, 20:20 | #24 | |
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Alan |
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Aug 20th, 2020, 20:32 | #25 |
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This might work Bob:
Passenger's side: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1301 Driver's side and gearbox mount: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1347 Rigging up a an engine brace like I did might well help a bit in re-positioning the engine (I used part of a Fiat Panda). It may be too late now, but I'd do the passenger side first (easiest and gets things more or less in the right place), then the driver's side (fiddly, but ensures the engine sits squarely - then the transmission mount (this was pretty easy with the engine not flopping about). Good fortune, Alan |
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Aug 20th, 2020, 21:39 | #26 |
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I got the passenger side in after the kick , the gearbox fitted perfectly after the engine came into line .
The driveshaft went in easier than it's removal with new centre bearing . 2 problems I had ,the 3/8 unf bolts (to diff) were too long (new ones ordered) I used the ones I had just to hold it in position . and the motor mounts from skandix were the wrong type (straight bolt like Alans' ) ,I had a spare of the correct type (offset bolt) and one on order. Strange thing , every nut and bolt is usually metric on European cars, yet brake pipes are BSP , Drive shaft bolts are UNF and wheel nuts are UNF. What's that all about ?? Last edited by Bob 1967; Aug 20th, 2020 at 21:47. |
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Aug 20th, 2020, 21:55 | #27 | |
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Well done with the mounts - the car will be much better now. Alan Last edited by Othen; Aug 20th, 2020 at 21:58. |
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Aug 25th, 2020, 10:04 | #28 |
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Sorry I'm late to the party but I will give my experiences of changing the engine and g/box mounts as I did mine a couple of months ago.
First the g/box mounting. The car was on hydraulic car ramps from CJAutos and I supported the g/box on a hydraulic jack. I then removed the cross member and replaced the mounting. I know they would come out fairly easy as 4 years ago I replaced the clutch. The engine mounts I did one side at once. I started on the NS and undid the nut on the subframe end. I then took the mounting from the engine and removed. An electric impact wrench removed the other end of rubber mounting from the engine mounting. The OS one was a little trickier with the alternator and oil filter in the way. The filter was removed and the alternator slackened and pivoted out of the way. The procedure was the same - remove the nut from the subframe and then remove the mounting from the engine block. During both of these procedures I used a Clarke's engine crane to support the motor, rather than a jack under the sump. The car was still on the hydraulic ramps but in the lowered position, giving enough room for me to get under the front end as required. It also helped that i had the front end apart to do the cambelt and 'stat.
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1989 240DL estate 1982 323i 2012 Punto Easy 1.4 2010 116d 2011 X3 3.0d Last edited by hennabm; Aug 25th, 2020 at 10:14. |
Aug 25th, 2020, 19:10 | #29 |
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Hi, I had the car raised and on axle stands at the rear and on two sections of
4" scaffold planks at the front with wheel chocks . So car was high enough to remove Driveshaft and crossmember along with gearbox crossmember and mount . All mounts (2x motor and 1 gearbox mount) were sheared. I used a 3 ton trolley jack to raise the engine . Once I got the passenger (left) mount back in (the whole engine was two inches to the right). The right mount was easy to remove once the oil filter was removed. Re assembly was only a problem with the furthest forward bolt in the engine . I couldn't find my 12mm ratchet spanner (It has a ratchet insert in the ring end),so I had to use the normal spanner for this bolt which was a 1/16 of a turn at a time . All done now . I had spent about an hour or two doing a write up with pictures and I pressed "review" to check the post and then accidently closed the page . So I just hadn't the patience to repeat the post. Bob Last edited by Bob 1967; Aug 25th, 2020 at 19:14. |
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Aug 25th, 2020, 19:12 | #30 |
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