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Turbo supply to intercooler - Seals check

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Old Sep 4th, 2014, 20:25   #1
Arctic fox
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Default Turbo supply to intercooler - Seals check

Folks, this one is a heads up for those with the D5 engine from the face lift model.

I gather from 2006 on (maybe 2005 too) the plastic turbo outlet pipe that sits under the engine, has the resonator box fitted along with a bright orange seal at both ends. If your car has a rubber hose connecting turbo outlet to the pipe, ignore this post.

My car has 130k miles MY 08 and these seals were original and perished. What compounded the issue was that both mounting brackets, for the long plastic pipe, that secures to the engine where broken also. (Clan will tell you about the importance of not ignoring these broken mounts

Recently the resonator box blew off at the turbo outlet with an almighty "pop". This happened on an Autobahn. Dramatic noise for sure.

We found a local garage in Germany who managed to secure the resonator box back to the turbo, to allow us to continue our journey / holiday. They did a great job and it managed to get us back home too.

Once home I got the pipes off and got a good look at what was wrong.

Take a look at the pics and you will see one seal had completely torn, this was the seal for the turbo to the resonator box.
The other seal is where the resonator box meets the turbo to intercooler plastic pipe. You can see the shark fin type impressions in the silicone rubber, and they are perishing.

The seals are approx £20 a pair plus your time or garage labour. The long plastic supply pipe to the inter cooler is approx £75 + Vat. If one or both mounts are broke, replace it.

Allow a good 4 hours to do the job. Under tray needs removing, a bit of contortionist work to get at the turbo side of things from the bottom and the large alloy box thing that sits on the sub frame needs loosening off (no need to remove just loosen it). It's the only way I could get the long plastic pipe out from under the engine.

If you have oil appearing on the plastic pipe and around the lower seal (seen with the under engine cover off), then it's likely you can assume the seals are on the way out.
After I had fitted the new seals and pipe, there is no more evidence of oil misting on the pipe.

We see a few posts of this oil appearing on the forum.
Other symptoms may be slight black smoke under hard acceleration, whooshing noise or turbo like noise, maybe the feeling of a slight loss in power over a period of time.

The turbo pipe system needs to be leak free, to deliver pressure and efficiency in the running of this engine.

This is the plastic pipe under the engine, with the lower orange seal


This is the start of the resonator box the plastic pipe connects to.


Resonator box off the car



Torn seal (top of resonator box) where it let go from the turbo.


This is the lower seal with the shark fin imprint. That's the shape from the cut out / expansion clamp joint, on the resonator box. No wonder I got oil showing on the plastic pipe. You cannot see how perished they are when still on the car.



New seals being fitted in place. You can the shark fin cut out I refer to in this pic.



New lower engine supply pipe, notice the metal supporting collar inside. It has that at both ends to stop the pipe collapsing when the pipe clips are re-torqued. Your old pipe should have them too.



Old, New and resonator box pipes.Just for reference.



That big square ish box on the left of the front engine mount, that is what I had to loosen to allow the plastic pipe enough room for removal. I gotta go look up what that thing is. Seems like some sort of anti vibe damper?




Hope this helps some of you.
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Old Sep 4th, 2014, 22:33   #2
owenfackrell
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I don't know if its the same on the 185bhp engines but I found it a lot easier to undo the pipe from the turbo by reaching up through where the exhaust exits/prop shaft is.
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Old Apr 8th, 2015, 20:59   #3
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Yep my top seal just blown today noise though the gears auto box under load only like a baby fart & A loud hissing like a tyre puncture going down @ certain rev's my son's managed to put it back on until we get parts but top seal is torn mick
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Old Nov 7th, 2015, 18:16   #4
Fearone
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A little lube with washing up liquid makes installation of the seals much easier.
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Old Jun 9th, 2016, 08:39   #5
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Great information.

My seal split like this too and both clips on the pipe were broken. I could not get the old pipe out though even after removing the block you described.

Simon.
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Old Jul 14th, 2016, 09:40   #6
XCShep
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Default Contortionism

Great Guide, thanks for posting.
I've just followed it to solve my 'whooshing and limp mode on my MY07 D5 SE Sport but I can't get to the turbo jubilee clip screw which is the last thing.

anyone got any tips to get at it, I can't get my hand over the drive shaft to get on it.

Would a flexi screw driver be any use?

Any help much appreciated, its incredibly frustrating!
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Old Jul 14th, 2016, 10:34   #7
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The way to get to it is over the gearbox crossmember.

I had to use a 7mm deep socket, small extension, knucle joint, long extension, screwdriver and ratchet (all 1/4" drive) to reach it.

Simon.
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Old Jul 14th, 2016, 11:54   #8
colinbos
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I changed the resonator box (being plastic also splits) for one of these.

Longevity was the reason.

http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=8259
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Old Oct 20th, 2016, 23:02   #9
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Would you see excessive oil use if these seals are leaking at the resonator?
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Old Oct 21st, 2016, 07:53   #10
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Hi Fyall, no it would not lead to excess oil consumption. Generally there is no oil present in the intake/exhaust system.

Worn seals depending on condition can cause higher fuel consumption and lower engine performance. Although probably not noticeable in everyday driving. Once the pipe separates, then you notice a huge lack in performance


Any oil in the intercooler system is generally just gentle weep from the turbo seals. If the turbo seals where worn enough to cause excess oil consumption, it would be noticeable from the exhaust smoke as the air / oil mist gets burnt through the intake.
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