automatic gearbox problems

[JohnTR]

Originally Posted by blueacid

Even if your car is currently shifting and working fine, best to change the transmission fluid. Best to change it as a first port of call for any faults too!

It's very simple to do, although you need to do it in two 'halves'; the drain plug only lets out half the fluid. So you change half then change it again later (and possibly a third time after that). I've done the first change just now, I'll be doing the second one of these days.

If you can't find a decent how-to with photos then I'll be glad to photograph what I do and write it up for you. Oh and the new ATF-U fluid can be had for under £50 for 8 litres on ebay. No reason to not change it now!

Some photos would be very helpful - thanks a lot.

The gearchange is not too bad until it gets hot, then it often lurches and clunks so I'm not always sure if it is in gear or not. Sometimes it also revs high for a few seconds and then drives properly without any clunking. Hopefully changing the fluid will help this as it is a really nice car otherwise.

I shall order some fluid - enough for a full change and a couple of flush throughs - like I saw mentioned ina previous post.

JTR

[oragex]

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/37

is compatible with the Toyota T-IV oil, although it doesn't say 3309 on the bottle. It's 25$ 5 liters here in US

[nickbw898]

Don't go messing with your auto box or change the fluid before you have read the following link several times. Also getting the fluid level right in this box is super critical and quite difficult it only takes 0.2 of a liter to raise the level from min to max and it is temperature critical. First car must be on a level surface, second engine up to temperature and just after a 20-30 minute drive so that ATF fluid is hot - +80 degres C. Vida/Dice needs to be connected to check temperature.

Note! Carry out the check at an
oil temperature of +80 °C. Go to
car communication function
group 4. Select the digital display
parameter. Select the parameter
for the gearbox oil temperature.
Preparing to check

the oil level (and trigger adaptions and re-set fluid counter which are really important) or else use an infra red temp gun. And the reading needs to be done after the selector is passed through each setting, paused in each for two seconds. If you tow then fit an auxilliary cooler. Heat is destructive to ATF and this is what kills gear boxes. Every 10 degrees halves life of fluid! I have 138k miles on my auto box and I tow boats regularly.
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...-other-goodies!

[kermit71]

can anyone help .. I have a 2001 c70 with a 5 speed auto box,, it wont go into reverse or 2/3 or L ..even though it says it is selected..? it does drive forward but nothing else, the arrow on the dash has now started to flash as well is it dead or can I fix this problem by changing the fluids ..?

[Paul240480]

My 04 V70SE Auto has around 94k on it and one previous keeper. Mainstealer serviced mainly at the garage it was bought from - Cambridge Garage, Portsmouth.

In the history file at 17631 miles it has:

Cover Brake Piston B4 Automatic (code 43908)

Gearbox Replace as per SB 4-43-0039 - Gearbox Complete (Code 43719)

Automatic Gearbox Test Drive/Adaption (Code 43713)

Transmission oil*C (Part 1161640)
Piston Kit*x (Part 30651771)

All done at no cost to Steve (previous owner) , which is confirmed on the receipt in my file.

SB 4-43-0039 ? Service Bulletin? Was it a recall job? Sadly Steve has no recollection of the symptons/reasons , just that it 'was done' .

[nickbw898]

The AW auto box on the early P2 car is considered to be weak, ie 2000-2001 models, and it underwent certain design modifications. I understand these were A. The removal of Volvo's "Stop Neutral" software controlled feature (this was unique to Volvo's adaptation of this gearbox, which is widely used through a range of car marques) originally intended to improve fuel consumption, where in drive but with forward motion arrested by applying the foot brake, the neutral condition is engaged. B Certain of the solenoids were repositioned in the valve body upgrade which was fitted from 2003 onwards. Also C for a range of serial numbers of early design the B4 servo cover, which was crimped on, was found to be a weakness causing bad shift flare in low gears. There was a recall I believe and vehicles receiving main dealer servicing had the modification done. All these issues are extensively covered on many Volvo enthusiast sites, specificlly the 2000-2007 V70/XC70 section of www.volvoxc.com/forums/ and www.mathewsvolvosite.com/forums/.

I strongly advise you read http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=36790 and note JRL's comments he is considered an authority.

Anyone towing is advised to fit an auxillary cooler in line, after the in radiator heat exchanger. A rise of 11 degrees C will halve the life of the transmission fluid. Regular DIY Volvo enthusiasts change their transmission fluid (60k mile intervals) either by "drain and fill" or Gibbon's method flush - disconnection of return line at radiator and dumping 2 litres at a time, while replacing 2 litres of new fluid via the dip stick tube, until a total of 15 -17 litres has been flushed and the fluid is bright cherry red. Mobile 3309 or Toyota type-IV.
Here is (towards the end) the "Gibbon's method"
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...-other-goodies!
In Vida it states "The difference between MAX and MIN volumes is 0.2 litres. Cary out the transmission oil level check at an oil temperature of +80 degrees Celsius. Go to car communications function 4. Select the digital display parameter for the gearbox oil temperature. - Park car on level surface. Apply the handbrake. Apply foot brake. Let the engine idle. Move the gear selector lever to position P.
Move the gear through all positions. Wait in each position for approximately three seconds. Move gear selector to position P and wait approximately two minutes before checking the oil level. The dipstick must be pushed down as far as possible into the dipstick tube. Keep engine idling throughout."

[nickbw898]

http://www.sonnax.com/articles/209-A...dy-Information

[blueacid]

Originally Posted by nickbw898

Don't go messing with your auto box or change the fluid before you have read the following link several times. Also getting the fluid level right in this box is super critical and quite difficult it only takes 0.2 of a liter to raise the level from min to max and it is temperature critical. First car must be on a level surface, second engine up to temperature and just after a 20-30 minute drive so that ATF fluid is hot - +80 degres C. Vida/Dice needs to be connected to check temperature.

Note! Carry out the check at an
oil temperature of +80 °C. Go to
car communication function
group 4. Select the digital display
parameter. Select the parameter
for the gearbox oil temperature.
Preparing to check

the oil level (and trigger adaptions and re-set fluid counter which are really important) or else use an infra red temp gun. And the reading needs to be done after the selector is passed through each setting, paused in each for two seconds. If you tow then fit an auxilliary cooler. Heat is destructive to ATF and this is what kills gear boxes. Every 10 degrees halves life of fluid! I have 138k miles on my auto box and I tow boats regularly.
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...-other-goodies!

Thanks for this; I don't have VIDA/DICE myself, but I do have an infra red thermometer... where should I measure?

I'm worried that after my drain and fills I have left the box low on fluid; after my 30 minute commute home today I left it running while in park (I shifted straight to park from 'D', I used 'R' right at the beginning of the journey but never again since). The fluid level was halfway between cold 'max' and hot 'min', so I suspect I'm chronically low on fluid and need to top up.

Before I go overfilling though: is there any point measuring cold? Or if I really should make all my dealings with a hot gearbox, should I just wring it by the neck for 30 minutes and assume it's sufficiently warm?

..finally, any suggestions on how much to top up by? I realise I should just add some and see, but a hint like "from min to max is 200ml" for example would be quite useful!

[blueacid]

Originally Posted by blueacid

Thanks for this; I don't have VIDA/DICE myself, but I do have an infra red thermometer... where should I measure?

I'm worried that after my drain and fills I have left the box low on fluid; after my 30 minute commute home today I left it running while in park (I shifted straight to park from 'D', I used 'R' right at the beginning of the journey but never again since). The fluid level was halfway between cold 'max' and hot 'min', so I suspect I'm chronically low on fluid and need to top up.

Before I go overfilling though: is there any point measuring cold? Or if I really should make all my dealings with a hot gearbox, should I just wring it by the neck for 30 minutes and assume it's sufficiently warm?

..finally, any suggestions on how much to top up by? I realise I should just add some and see, but a hint like "from min to max is 200ml" for example would be quite useful!

..of course my other option is to ask around for someone with VIDA/DICE that's nearby and wouldn't mind swapping their time for gratitude / cake / alcohol / etc (delete as appropriate)

[Chris_Rogers]

Min to max is 200ml, but you don't need to rag it to get it hot, 20 mins normal driving in the present ambient temperature is enough.

From what you say 1/2 "half way between hot and cold", I'd try 100ml and check again.

Don't be too surprised if the level is slightly above max when the gearbox is hot, the hot level is at a specific temperature which may well be exceeded after prolonged driving.