Electric window not!

Hi all, got this 240 SE estate 1993 on a K. It has had 2 owners, full service history (main dealer until 68k), and has now got 72k on the clock.

I have always wanted a Volvo, the last owner has looked after the car very well, but I have a couple of small problems.

1. The passenger window behind the driver will not open on either the front switch or the rear door switch. I have swapped the switches over and they all seem to work on the other windows. So I took the door cover off hoping to see if a wire had come off but seems ok. I tested the door switch for power and it seems to be there, compared the readings with the front door switch. Can't get at the motor without taking the whole lot out so have not been able to test for power at the motor yet.
Any ideas or am I right thinking the motor has gone.

2. The rear passenger doors have not had much use and are very stiff, especially for my daughter. Will a good greasing help or do I need penetrating oil on the mechanisms.

3. The rear door has the start of some rust around the catch/lip and the light sensor switch has broken. a) will any type of door sensor fit from any Volvo estate and b) for a car this old I am amazed how little rust there is but this being on the sill is it easily treated to stop it getting worse.

All in all though I bought the car to tow the caravan and am chuffed to bits having a Volvo at last.

Many thanks in advance
Bob

Hi,
Have you tried testing the contacts on the drivers door switch? All the power for the other windows goes through there, so although the switch in the relevant door might work, the power might not be getting to it. Mine all benefited from stripping and cleaning - watch out for the tiny ball bearing in each rocker though!

[93240se]

Hi Bob, just a thought, if the rear doors have had little use, the window may just be stuck. Try gripping the glass both sides & pushing the window down whilst someone operates the switch. My '93 240 suffers occasionally in freezing conditions from the same thing.

Also another tip, make sure central locking is working on the tail gate, rear tailgate wiring has a habit of fracturing & going intermittent disconnection, pretty obvious for things like rear wiper but not so for locking.

Regards, Richard VOC 3801

[barrie013]

I would recommend good old engine oil for the rear door hinges. Put plenty on and leave it for a couple of days, then wipe off the excess to save your daughters clothes from getting oily. Also, get some grease onto the check straps...makes them work easier and stops any rust taking hold. Its always a good idea to keep all hinges and locks well ioled and greased, including the bonnet release mechanism. The car will be much more pleasant to own.

[alex_plovdiv]

Hi, if I send you a wireing diagram will it help you to fix the problem? You can check for voltage to the motor by conecting a voltmeter to the switch - the color of the motor wires is red and black and they comes out from the switch.

[penninepullman]

Not sure if hinges changed at all during the life of the 200 series. On my 1982 244 there are grease points for the door hinges. These have to be greased with a grease gun with a pointed adaptor rather than the 'conventional' adator that 'locks on' to a nipple. Assuming no blockages, grease will ooze out at top and bottom of hinge pins.
Also, on the lower hinges, where the check strap (inverted U shape metal bar) goes into a tube it is necessary to add oil (I use engine oil (10/40) as that is what is in my oilcan). There is a small hole about half way up (or is it down!) this tube to prevent overfilling.
Finally, the two small cog wheels associated with the check strap need lubricating (I use spray white grease) so that they can turn; they should turn a bit every time the doors are opened.