Stuck thermostat?

[Forrest]

When my thermostat failed open the temperature gauge struggled to get to 1/4 of the way across the dial. The effects of running at such a low temperature would be the oil never reaching the ideal operating temperature and hence viscosity and the engine being constantly over-fueled by the ECU thinking it was supporting a cold start. Another problem with the oil temperature staying too low is that water and other contaminants would not be boiled off. All things considered, very bad for the engine.

[360beast]

Originally Posted by classicswede

No the turbo engine runs cooler! Well it does if you have the 87 thermostat rather than the na 92!
What the turbo engine has is a higher thermal output (makes more power) Running a lower opening temp stat allows the cooling system to respond sooner

You dont want the engine running too cold as it increases engine wear

I would have thought a turbo 940 which has a coolant filled turbo would get the coolant hotter than an N/A car especially when I use it for track days and it smells hot after being driven.

Hence why I need to correct the previous owners mistake of fitting the 92°C thermostat as it will open sooner allowing the minimum running temperature to drop a bit.

I think we are essentially saying the same thing.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by 360beast

I would have thought a turbo 940 which has a coolant filled turbo would get the coolant hotter than an N/A car especially when I use it for track days and it smells hot after being driven.

Hence why I need to correct the previous owners mistake of fitting the 92°C thermostat as it will open sooner allowing the minimum running temperature to drop a bit.

I think we are essentially saying the same thing.

If you're going for that kind of use Luke, why not dispense with the oil-water oil intercooler and fit a remote oil cooler using a sandwich plate in place of the OE oil cooler between the block and filter?

Then keep your 92C 'stat and fit an uprated coolant radiator..........

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If you're going for that kind of use Luke, why not dispense with the oil-water oil intercooler and fit a remote oil cooler using a sandwich plate in place of the OE oil cooler between the block and filter?

Then keep your 92C 'stat and fit an uprated coolant radiator..........

Money money money 🤑

[baggy798]

What peak water and oil temps are you seeing on track, Luke?

In this 2004(!) best motoring endurance video, the stock Evo was hitting 102° for water and 126° for oil after 10 minutes and 8 laps, and the STI 108° and 131°.

After 20 minutes and 17 laps they were 105/129° and the same 108/131° respectively.

That was in 33° heat so a bit of a stress test. The temp limits they put on the cars were 110° for water and 140° for oil. None of the other cars are turbo so can't really be compared.

+ YouTube Video

[360beast]

Originally Posted by baggy798

What peak water and oil temps are you seeing on track, Luke?

In this 2004(!) best motoring endurance video, the stock Evo was hitting 102° for water and 126° for oil after 10 minutes and 8 laps, and the STI 108° and 131°.

After 20 minutes and 17 laps they were 105/129° and the same 108/131° respectively.

That was in 33° heat so a bit of a stress test. The temp limits they put on the cars were 110° for water and 140° for oil. None of the other cars are turbo so can't really be compared.

That's interesting to see!

I'm not sure on temps as I don't have gauges unfortunately but it just smelt very hot last time out but it was a boiling hot day (over 30°C) though which most likely contributed a bit.

I haven't been out since as a coolant hose burst going to the heater matrix so I've bought DO88 hoses and will replace the lot. I'm waiting for my intercooler issues to be sorted out with speedingparts before a buy a DO88 intercooler and piping to do at the same time.

I've got a 3d printed gauge holder to go in the centre vents that I've got a GFB boost gauge, aem wideband gauge and I'll get a oil pressure combined temperature gauge for the third slot so I can monitor it better.

I'll buy a DO88 radiator too when I have saved up as with Christmas around the corner my toy money is drying up fast.

This tuning stuff ain't cheap!

[230ina245]

One way to control high temps on sustained high rev/repeated hard accelerating driving is to increase the coolant flow through the head.
Next time you have the head off drill the well documented "group A" holes.
Run some heater pipe from the heater outlet at the back of the head and tee it into the top radiator hose. You will need to insert a heater type valve in the pipe and control it from the dashboard so that you can vary how much extra cooling you have.
I re-plumbed the heater by repurposing the hard pipe that had supplied coolant to the oil warmer/cooler.
The idea was developed by Stealthfti over on turbobricks and is very effective.
Tim

[Mertz]

Originally Posted by 360beast

That's interesting to see!

I'm not sure on temps as I don't have gauges unfortunately but it just smelt very hot last time out but it was a boiling hot day (over 30°C) though which most likely contributed a bit.

I haven't been out since as a coolant hose burst going to the heater matrix so I've bought DO88 hoses and will replace the lot. I'm waiting for my intercooler issues to be sorted out with speedingparts before a buy a DO88 intercooler and piping to do at the same time.

I've got a 3d printed gauge holder to go in the centre vents that I've got a GFB boost gauge, aem wideband gauge and I'll get a oil pressure combined temperature gauge for the third slot so I can monitor it better.

I'll buy a DO88 radiator too when I have saved up as with Christmas around the corner my toy money is drying up fast.

This tuning stuff ain't cheap!

I had Do88 hoses on the heater core but it was really bad quality and a poor fit. I think the intake/pressure hoses are decent but wouldn't touch their coolant hoses ever again.