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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Arch ProtectorsViews : 760 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 00:08 | #1 |
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Arch Protectors
Bit of a London bus me, not around much for months then here with several posts in a week!
Is it possible to obtain rear arch protectors? I'm sure I saw something about them years ago so wondered if anyone had had some fitted. It's a daft bit of neglect by Volvo, they put them on the front but arguably the rear is more vulnerable. It just occurred to me after having all the welding done that there might be a way to perhaps slow down further spread of rust. Maybe a slight reduction in road noise too? |
Oct 12th, 2020, 10:40 | #2 |
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Have a look at the "New [to me]"thread by Othen on this board round about page 173 of that thread rear arch liners are mentioned there.
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Oct 12th, 2020, 12:42 | #3 |
Not an expert but ...
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The problem with an arch protector is that you have to determine exactly where are the vulnerable bits, and then decide whether to design the protector to cover those bits ( so that mud from wheels doesn't get thrown there) or to leave them exposed (so that you can still get access to hose them clear).
The vulnerable parts at the rear are up around the upper shock absorber mounting, down the underside of the chassis member where it slopes downwards under the seat base, in the slot between the chassis member and the fuel tank, and between the wing and the rubber spray guard. Normally that is where mud gets sprayed, but also they are easy to blast clear with a pressure washer if you are conscientious. The choice is between covering them up and hoping not to get mud there, because it would be much more difficult to hose clean, or else leaving them exposed but resolving to make more effort to keep clear. The dilema does not exist at the front because it is easy to get access from underneath. The axle and fuel tank complicate the picture at the rear. |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 12:49 | #4 | |
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In my Moggie Minor days the recommendation from Charles Ware was to have the underside pressure washed and sprayed with old engine oil. This was considered more effective than underseal, though the inside of the closed sections was also waxoyled. Finding someone who is happy to have their workshop floor covered in oil spray isn't easy! A side issue of the arch liners might, I thought, give a reduction in road noise but I've no idea if there's any reason to expect that. |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 12:52 | #5 |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 13:16 | #6 | ||
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Quote:
Thank you Clifford. You do consider things thoroughly. Quote:
Angie you remind me. Looking at one Morris Minor advertised as undersealed. "Interesting" perhaps. I saw gleaming new underseal and protruding wisps of almost certainly glass fibre from the front mountings of the rear springs. OOOOOOPPPPSSSS and EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK ..... !!!!! Stephen . |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 13:34 | #7 |
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I can only recommend them:~
Within the already mentioned post you will find a link to the present supplier. Couple of points on these- they are heavy duty in a positive way with a really good fit- thick gauge material that can be carefully heated for minor adjustments. As with any item that is used for rust protection it is pointless covering the same up and allowing it to just fester, the underside must be clean and clear of any heavy rust- or weak metal. Once at this stage thoroughly coat all areas with your favorite Waxoyl/Tetroeseal diluted with clean engine oil-paying attention to the hidden areas. The above will not be washed away but be prepared to inspect on a regular basis- 12/18 months. These liners are very easy to remove and normally held in place with a couple of "Z" clips & screws (use stainless) Regarding the points mentioned on coverage protection to the actual metal work; the liners will give full protection to the rear end of the sills- also lapping over the mud flaps. The liner comes cut to shape for the chassis section as it has to allow for the shock absorber fittings- they are not short on material though, quite easy to view this area with the wheel removed and recoat with the rust treatment without the removal of the liner, same as you would do for the front wings? Hope it helps Bob |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 13:41 | #8 | |
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1728 ... Bob has previously used these and considers them well worthwhile, which is a good enough recommendation for me. i still have not heard back from Volvovogue, which reminds me, I'll give them one more try today and if I don't get a reply I'll use the German supplier. I think these are a really good idea. I did a small amount of welding on the Royal Barge's offside inner wheel arch, which should be good for quite a while, but I'd quite like to protect that area. :-) Alan Last edited by Othen; Oct 12th, 2020 at 13:43. Reason: Correction. |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 15:49 | #9 |
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I did have a look at the Lokari website - not the easiest to negotiate but it looked interesting, and recommendations here seem to suggest the liners are worthwhile - subject to Clifford's strictures about cleaning the hidden areas. The edge protectors looked sensible too but presumably not necessary with the full liners in place.
Driving the car now the work has been done has convinced me that it's worth preserving, we have some rough road surfaces around here and there are no alarming noises from the suspension any more, not bad for a twenty-eight year old car! |
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Oct 12th, 2020, 16:43 | #10 |
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As an aside:~
The sills (Inner) can be cleaned out once the large plastic grommets are removed- pull the carpet back from the inside etc. Flood with diluted wax treatment. If you look carefully at the rear wheel arch inner lower point at the end of the sill etc. you should find a large rubber grommet that can be removed allowing the treatment to be spayed into the sill and at the specific vulnerable point where it gets attached to the wheel arch & "C" post. The plug will probably be covered with the original underseal but will be reusable once cleaned up etc. Hope it helps Bob. |
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