1800S Overheating Sleuths Please Reply! - Page 3

Mister T · Dec 30th, 2007, 02:54

Hey good evening Ron ,
I know of no specific makers that use plastic impellers for there pumps , I was personally bitten with this many years ago with an impeller that was cracked and caused a --- now you see me now you dont O, heat problem (slip sometimes not others) this was on a Sunbeam Alpine .
In Johns case with this problem there is more in the history that we do not know , but not unsolveable
PS ---- keep up the good work with your articles , they reminded me when the cars were in current use .
Regards Mister T.

St Pain · Dec 30th, 2007, 12:59

Hi John,

I once had a similiar problem with an old 100E engine which had the heater blanked off.

The solution seemed to be to put a loop of hose in to replace the heater. New hose would be best as the old one may well perished inside which is where the rubber pieces are coming from. The heater loop is used to purge air from the system with the heater valve turned on. It is only turned off when the system has been filled and all air removed, if you have a loop you will not need to bother turning it off again! (If the air is not purged correctly you will have air pockets inside the cylinder head causing the overheating.)

Also make sure that your radiator pressure cap is of the correct pressure as this will also influence the working temperature, and that it seals correctly.

Also check your antifreeze mixture is correct as even though you may not appear to need any, it does give anti corrosion protection.

I hope this is of help as it was a solution for me in the past.

Regards

Stephen

Kauai1800 · Dec 31st, 2007, 08:27

Aloha All,

It is doing better...many thanks.

I added some of the Red Line Water Wetter and the temp is staying between 180-212 pretty much all the time. Still think there's air in there..the heater hoses are likely culprits, so a connection between them is coming soon I think.

And yeah, I think I should get a new radiator cap as well.

Cheers and Happy New Years!

BillKat · Dec 31st, 2007, 10:33

Good stuff. You've probably seen all the stuff on here about bleeding, running with the cap off, open heater (or looped lines...) etc etc. Found with one of my cars that jacking the front up helped a lot, but it was a non-std setup. My last time I did my Amazon it seemed to like a bleed, a drive, then another little bleed.

Bear in mind, it ought to run OK without water wetter, so there's probably something that does need sorting. Though personally I wasn't convinced it did a whole lot anyway, stopped using it and didn't see a difference (in a non-Volvo car).

Happy New Year!

Dec 31st, 2007, 08:27	#23
Kauai1800 Member Last Online: Aug 11th, 2019 22:13 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Island of Kauai	Aloha All, It is doing better...many thanks. I added some of the Red Line Water Wetter and the temp is staying between 180-212 pretty much all the time. Still think there's air in there..the heater hoses are likely culprits, so a connection between them is coming soon I think. And yeah, I think I should get a new radiator cap as well. Cheers and Happy New Years! __________________ *"Relax in the safety of your own delusions."* - JR "Bob" Dobbs

Dec 30th, 2007, 02:54	#21
Mister T Senior Member Last Online: Sep 12th, 2019 23:23 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: San Diego	Hey good evening Ron , I know of no specific makers that use plastic impellers for there pumps , I was personally bitten with this many years ago with an impeller that was cracked and caused a --- now you see me now you dont O, heat problem (slip sometimes not others) this was on a Sunbeam Alpine . In Johns case with this problem there is more in the history that we do not know , but not unsolveable PS ---- keep up the good work with your articles , they reminded me when the cars were in current use . Regards Mister T.

Dec 30th, 2007, 12:59	#22
St Pain 700 series Fan Last Online: Jan 13th, 2010 19:35 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Skegness	Hi John, I once had a similiar problem with an old 100E engine which had the heater blanked off. The solution seemed to be to put a loop of hose in to replace the heater. New hose would be best as the old one may well perished inside which is where the rubber pieces are coming from. The heater loop is used to purge air from the system with the heater valve turned on. It is only turned off when the system has been filled and all air removed, if you have a loop you will not need to bother turning it off again! (If the air is not purged correctly you will have air pockets inside the cylinder head causing the overheating.) Also make sure that your radiator pressure cap is of the correct pressure as this will also influence the working temperature, and that it seals correctly. Also check your antifreeze mixture is correct as even though you may not appear to need any, it does give anti corrosion protection. I hope this is of help as it was a solution for me in the past. Regards Stephen

Dec 31st, 2007, 10:33	#24
BillKat Senior Member Last Online: Aug 16th, 2023 21:45 Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Cambs	Good stuff. You've probably seen all the stuff on here about bleeding, running with the cap off, open heater (or looped lines...) etc etc. Found with one of my cars that jacking the front up helped a lot, but it was a non-std setup. My last time I did my Amazon it seemed to like a bleed, a drive, then another little bleed. Bear in mind, it ought to run OK without water wetter, so there's probably something that does need sorting. Though personally I wasn't convinced it did a whole lot anyway, stopped using it and didn't see a difference (in a non-Volvo car). Happy New Year!

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