Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > Diesel Engines
Register Members CarsBlogs Help Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines.

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

2006 V70 D5 185 EGR V Clamp removal

Views : 769

Replies : 23

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jul 6th, 2018, 13:28   #11
davebb
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 23:29
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Emsworth,hants
Default

also you need to see if the turbo actuator is moving, as if the vnt is jammed up the gears in the actuator can brake,
Dave
davebb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 6th, 2018, 16:20   #12
TurboDiesel2006
New Member
 

Last Online: Aug 1st, 2018 18:46
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
Default

Thank you Joe H for the picture, it helps to understand how it works. I'll try completely undoing the jubilee clip then prising the inner sections. They didn't move last time but with the clip completely undone I might get better access. it will be a few days before I can do this as my wife needs to use the car and from experience I need to allow a good bit of time.

Hi davebb, the car has never been re-mapped or had the EGR blanked off. I did clear the codes several times but they came back again within a few seconds. I also tried disconnecting the battery for 6 hours but nothing changed. The battery is good and the low power mode when driving indicates to me that the codes are probably accurate. From the SkintKnuckles thread I think the other codes are a consequence of the 4430 EGR code.

If the 100% reading is what the ECU is asking the EGR to do, then, if it remains constant doesn't that indicate that the EGR is not responding, which can be interpreted as it being jammed?
TurboDiesel2006 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 6th, 2018, 19:38   #13
GrahamBrown1
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Aug 4th, 2018 12:39
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Default

As part of normal operation once shut down the car performs a self clean of the egr using the stepper motor attached to the front of the valve. This basically moves the valve in and out. What happens normally is when the valve starts to clog the motor finds it harder to move the valve and eventually strips the internal gears. So not only do you get a non functioning egr valve but also a worn out motor.

The best fix is a new motor and valve as you know it’s not the easiest area to work in so may as well do them both together. I had to sort this on my 150k mile s60 before I sold it.
__________________
Previous - S40 2003, V70 D5 2004, 2005 V50,
S60 D5 2007

Current - V70 D5 R design 2009
GrahamBrown1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 19th, 2018, 18:52   #14
TurboDiesel2006
New Member
 

Last Online: Aug 1st, 2018 18:46
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
Default

So with valuable help from the forum (and Joe H the picture of the V clamp really helped) I have managed to remove the EGR and Cooler assembly the question now is what to do next.

The valve is quite clean because I cleaned it thoroughly about two years ago and again last week.

Some contributors have talked about plastic gears that strip so the valve won't work and I presume these are in the black plastic electronics unit with Pierburg printed on it. A new one of these assemblies is a whole load cheaper than a whole new EGR valve so is the way to go? Is there any way I can test the functioning of the EGR valve or this electronics unit?

I have removed the black electronics unit. Despite soaking them in WD40 all 4 torx screws broke on trying to undo them so these will have to be drilled out. There is some evidence of water seepage/corrosion underneath the electronics unit (see picture) but it doesn't seem to have got past the seals on the prongs and into the motor unit. This electronics unit has a plunger that rests against the cam assembly on the end of the EGR valve shaft. This plunger can move freely and it sounds as it it is moving a spring mechanism inside the casing. I assume the EGR valve opens and closes via the cam on the electric (stepper?) motor. Then as the valve moves the plunger resting on the cam works a gear to provide feedback via the electronics to the ECU.

I don't think the EGR motor or valve stem has seized but I can't see how to test the EGR valve for movement. It looks as if the outer casing of the cam assembly is welded to the top of the EGR valve shaft during manufacture so to get it to move you need to rotate the motor. But I am wary of just trying to stick 12V across the terminals to see what happens.

So does anybody know how to test the EGR valve or has anybody had experience of just replacing the electronics unit? http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=8461

Any advice on how to proceed from here would be appreciated.

Many thanks, Chris.

BTW For anybody trying to do this same job in the future I will describe how I managed to get the EGR valve out and in particular the V clamp attaching the Cooler to the Flexible pipe.

Firstly to get access to the EGR valve I followed the instructions in my Haynes manual, removing the air-box and throttle body, but then it says undo the four screws and remove the valve - simples. But on the 185 Euro IV D5 it doesn't work like that. I undid the electronics connector and the vacuum pipes at the front and the manifold connecting pipe. then I removed the black plastic pipe going from the turbocharger to the airbox/MAF sensor pipe and undid cooling pipes at the rear. This improves access to the rear EGR cooler mounting bolt and the V clamp from being impossible to difficult. I completely undid the jubilee clip and pushed back the tab part as far as I could. To remove the V clip you need to separate the top and bottom halves but the jubilee clip is welded to each half of the V on the most accessible side (i.e. the bit you can see) so there is no point in trying to push them apart from this side. I soaked the V clamp in WD40 overnight, then took a small flat bladed screwdriver and, coming in from the rear bulkhead side, placed it between the two halves and pushed/levered up. This loosened the top half and in a similar way I then loosened the the bottom half. You can't easily see this as it is on the RHS (towards the centreline of the car) so it is mainly done by touch but it was surprisingly easy and worked first time for me.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1010001_1024.jpg (180.1 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg P1010003_1024.jpg (158.8 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg P1010004_1024.jpg (165.2 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg P1010008_1024.jpg (148.4 KB, 12 views)
TurboDiesel2006 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 19th, 2018, 20:23   #15
cheshired5
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 11:31
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Crewe
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006 View Post
SSo does anybody know how to test the EGR valve
You can manipulate it and view the position reading using Dice and Vida.

Personally, I'd have done this before undoing anything and there are plenty of willing members who have the equipment. .
__________________
2002 S60 SE D5 Manual
202000 miles
cheshired5 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 26th, 2018, 19:04   #16
TurboDiesel2006
New Member
 

Last Online: Aug 1st, 2018 18:46
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
Default

Thank you cheshireD5 for the advice. I now have my VIDA/DICE system running again and I have re-fitted the EGR valve complete with a new Position Sensor. I can see the fault codes, clear the codes and read the data stream but I can't see how to manipulate the EGR Valve using VIDA. I cannot find an EGR or EGR Sensor option in the 'ECM Adaption' options.

The EGR position reading is still constantly at 100% and I still have the ECM-4430 No Signal DTC code. The valve is spotlessly clean inside, the Position sensor terminals looked clean and the Position Sensor is a new Pierburg unit. So it would be very useful to be able to manipulate EGR valve to see if it does move. Please will you give me some guidance on how to use VIDA to give me more information.
Thanks
Chris
TurboDiesel2006 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 26th, 2018, 19:43   #17
cheshired5
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 11:31
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Crewe
Default

Diagnostics >Vehicle Communication >ECM >Activations

Click on the EGR valve or EGR cooler bypass actuator and click start. Don't forget to click stop before moving on to anything else.

For the fault description type ECM 4430 in the fault tracing section of Search in Vida.
__________________
2002 S60 SE D5 Manual
202000 miles
cheshired5 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 26th, 2018, 19:47   #18
Clan
Experienced Member
 
Clan's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 11:01
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006 View Post
Can anybody help please. I have a 2006 MY V70 D5 185 Manual which is showing the dreaded Engine System Service Required fault message and the car is in low power mode when it feels as it the turbocharger is not working. The fault codes are:
ECM-4430 EGR Valve
ECM-6820 Turbo actuator. Signal too low
ECM-4510 EGR cooler bypass valve. Signal too low
ECM-6690 GLow relay control
ECM-6500 Engine Pads
ECM-4450 EGR position sensor. Faulty signal

Also the real time data stream shows the EGR Valve at 100% irrespective of throttle position.

From my previous experience and reading the SkintKnuckles thread my analysis is that the EGR valve is stuck i.e. 4430 is the primary issue and all the other codes except 6690 relate to the this problem.

About 3 years and 25,000 miles ago I removed and cleaned the DPF, cleaned out the EGR valve, valve/manifold pipe, manifold and replaced the throttle body and fitted new injectors. This was all done with the EGR still on the car and since then the car has been great. The card has been laid up for the last 6 months but has been started up and run for 15-20 minutes to get really warm every couple of weeks with no problem messages displayed. Sod's law that the moment I un-sorn the car and tax it the Engine System Service message comes up.

Yesterday I tried to take out the EGR to try and get better access but the V clamp that connects the cooler to the metal flexible pipe completely defeated me. I removed the two bolts, cables and clips at the front of the EGR, I also removed the pipe from the air filer assembly down to the turbo that runs alongside part of the cooler so as to get access to the cooler bracket mounting bolt and V clamp. I removed Cooler mounting bolt and loosened off the V clamp jubilee clip as much as possible. The EGR was then loose at the front but I could not get the V clamp to budge at all.

The EGR had a layer of soot but didn't look clogged up. As my wife needed the car today I cleaned the EGR anyhow and put it all back together but I still have exactly the same problems and error codes.

Questions:
Am I on the right path in thinking I have a stuck EGR valve. I assume that lack of use has caused the soot to solidify more than normal and this has jammed the valve.

Can it I release the EGR valve/piston if I can get it off.

If so how do I get the V clamp to separate and release. It looks like two separate semi-circles with a jubilee clip welded to the top semi-circle. I tried using a flat head screwdriver to pry off the top half but no joy. Access is limited so experience is probably the best tool.

Am I better off trying to release the flexible pipe at the exhaust end and taking out the EGR+cooler+pipe? If so how do I get to it as it looks to be shielded to access from underneath the car?

Is the only solution a new EGR (which I think is £400 - £500 and I would rather not have to spend this) then I still have to get the V clamp off.

Any ideas or experience to share please.
You have position sensor codes , so either this is faulty or the valve is stuck , It is most likely the position sensor , you need to remove it , then you will be able to see the end of the motor which drives the EGV valve , you should be able to press the arm in wards under spring pressure and it should spring back out , it should be a smooth action , you might find you can not move it so need to find out if it is the motor or the vale sticking . see how you get on ...
__________________
My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .
Clan is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 27th, 2018, 14:18   #19
TurboDiesel2006
New Member
 

Last Online: Aug 1st, 2018 18:46
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
Default

When I took the EGR valve /Cooler assembly off I cleaned it thoroughly and removed the Position Sensor. The small black rod in the Position Sensor would push back and spring out ok. I also tested the EGR Cooler Bypass butterfly valve using a vacuum tester and this worked fine.
With the Position Sensor removed you can see the cam drive for the EGR valve stem. You can't move it longitudinally because of the cam mechanism but I could rotate back and forth it a few degrees without any problem.
From this I deduced the EGR valve was not stuck so perhaps it was the electronics in the Position Sensor. So I fitted a new Pierburg 7.00555.07.0 unit prior to refitting the whole EGR assembly. I cleared all the DTC's using VIDA but unfortunately they all returned after running the engine, i.e.
ECM4430 - EGR Valve - No signal
ECM4150 - EGR cooler Bypass Valve - Signal too low
ECM4450 - EGR Position Sensor - Faulty Signal
ECM6500 - Engine Pads
ECM6860 - Turbo control Actuator - Signal to low

I have run the ECM Activation tests and I get no clicks (so I guess that means fail) from the EGR Valve, EGR Cooler Bypass Actuator, Turbo Control Valve Duty Cycle and Vacuum Valve Engine Mount.
The Position Sensor is new and I don't think the EGR Valve stem is seized so so my thinking the problem must be in the area between the two i.e. the motor in the EGR Valve, which means a new EGR Valve.

Can anybody help on the analysis. I think the EGR Motor is a sealed unit so is the only solution a new valve assembly? The Vida system refers to testing signals does this help? Is there anything else I can try?

Thanks

Chris
TurboDiesel2006 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 27th, 2018, 14:34   #20
Clan
Experienced Member
 
Clan's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 11:01
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006 View Post
When I took the EGR valve /Cooler assembly off I cleaned it thoroughly and removed the Position Sensor. The small black rod in the Position Sensor would push back and spring out ok. I also tested the EGR Cooler Bypass butterfly valve using a vacuum tester and this worked fine.
With the Position Sensor removed you can see the cam drive for the EGR valve stem. You can't move it longitudinally because of the cam mechanism but I could rotate back and forth it a few degrees without any problem.
From this I deduced the EGR valve was not stuck so perhaps it was the electronics in the Position Sensor. So I fitted a new Pierburg 7.00555.07.0 unit prior to refitting the whole EGR assembly. I cleared all the DTC's using VIDA but unfortunately they all returned after running the engine, i.e.
ECM4430 - EGR Valve - No signal
ECM4150 - EGR cooler Bypass Valve - Signal too low
ECM4450 - EGR Position Sensor - Faulty Signal
ECM6500 - Engine Pads
ECM6860 - Turbo control Actuator - Signal to low

I have run the ECM Activation tests and I get no clicks (so I guess that means fail) from the EGR Valve, EGR Cooler Bypass Actuator, Turbo Control Valve Duty Cycle and Vacuum Valve Engine Mount.
The Position Sensor is new and I don't think the EGR Valve stem is seized so so my thinking the problem must be in the area between the two i.e. the motor in the EGR Valve, which means a new EGR Valve.

Can anybody help on the analysis. I think the EGR Motor is a sealed unit so is the only solution a new valve assembly? The Vida system refers to testing signals does this help? Is there anything else I can try?

Thanks

Chris
You should be able to move this a lot more than a few degrees , , It should move through it's whole range under spring pressure and spring back to basic position on it's own strongly .
I still think the motor is seized without being there of course ! ...
__________________
My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .
Clan is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:58.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.