Wheels/Tyres: - Dynomec Locking wheel nut removal system - Page 2

Clan · Aug 28th, 2011, 08:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrCrusher

Judging by your description Clan, the bolts were the "3rd" type.

Must of been added "after market" though as the car is a 2001 V70. Maybe added because its on 17's which weren't that common back then.

Gazzza, didn't think of calling the AA out, I'm already a member. Argghhh!!!

the current type at any point in time will fit earlier models so it seems someone got rid of your type 2 and fitted type 3 which helped you a lot .
I was struggling with the type 2 where the cone of the bolt was siezed in the cone of the wheel .
If anyone has this type without the washer it is advisable to get them off whilst you can and replace by the current type.
why volvo left it 10 years to perfect these locking bolts in small stages is a mystery .

It isnt just volvo which use these bolts , just about every premium European manufacturer does so presumably have the same problems ..

capt jack · Aug 28th, 2011, 09:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrCrusher

Judging by your description Clan, the bolts were the "3rd" type.

Must of been added "after market" though as the car is a 2001 V70. Maybe added because its on 17's which weren't that common back then.

Gazzza, didn't think of calling the AA out, I'm already a member. Argghhh!!!

Don't know about the AA, but the RAC will attend to seized wheel nuts, but only if you've got a puncture and are stuck.

Cheers

Jack

linesi · Aug 28th, 2011, 19:54

all 4 locking wheel nuts on my 2001 v70 were locked on tight. The tyre garage messed up my locking wheel nut socket and then looked at me like I was going to magic the answer out of the air! These are the hardened bolts with the flower type pattern in the top.
After a quick bit of research it seemed that the Dynomec tool was the thing to use. After a call to the guys at Dynomec - they said "we can do it no problem". The helpful Rachael gave me some local stockists who I didnt like the sound of, so i stopped in at Dynomecs place in Castleford and they set about removing the bolts.
2 guys later a bit of sweat and the 4 locking wheel nuts were in the bin - I set off for my short break to North yorks.
prior to that I'd bought 4 new wheel bolts from Volvo and I put those in - who is going to nick alloys off a Volvo I ask you !!
Seems like a great tool to do the job - if anyone is in doubt ask Dynomec for their advice. (ps I dont work for them - just a great tool)

Clan · Aug 28th, 2011, 19:59

It seems you had the old "easy to remove " type too as the dynomec tool seems to hammer around the outside of the nut to remove them whilst the later type have hardened tops and a hardened spinning ring around the outside to prevent this.., i would really like to see what Dynomec make of the 2002-2008 types ...

MrCrusher · Aug 29th, 2011, 00:05

The way I understand it, the "blade 3" tool is the Dynomec"socket" in which you place a double sided "blank" which is made of an alloy that, when hammered onto the socket, forms a "new" key. This new key is apparently good to remove all four bolts usually. The "blank" is reversible, when one end has been used, it can be flipped out of the socket then reinstalled "other way round" so it can be used again fto form a different "key". The "socket" is merely a shroud that contains the "blank" and protects the wheel. The socket/new key can then be rotated with a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. You can even use an impact driver for more "seized" bolts.

I'll post some picks of my removed bolts when I get a chance. You'll notice that there is no damage to the bolts so technically, I could use them again.

If I was mental.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFXfEhTi8VU

The 3 alloy "coloured" items in the bottom of the pack are the "blanks".

Clan · Aug 29th, 2011, 08:37

Many thanks for that , an excellent description together with the video makes it clear how this works and which nuts it can remove ..

However It will only be of use for locking bolts which are still intact , in good condition with clean threads , not excessivly tightened and not with the cone siezed into the alloy wheel cone ..
I have been dealing with removing these bolts for 10 years now and the above method i described is the only way i have found which will remove the worst cases , which luckily are not too common , maybe 2 sets a year for me . In these worst cases no amount of torque will free the bolt that is why the key breaks and sometimes the head of the locking bolt cracks , due to the huge torque applied and the bolts still will not undo . I have found the cars where the bolts are siezed are always high mileage where the bolts have been on and off a lot of times for tyres and brakes and the cones have mated perfectly to the cone of the bolts together with some corrosion .The dynomec tool wouldnt be able to deal with these huge torques on siezed bolts or with damaged wavy slots ..
The Dynomec tool would be great on newish cars where the key has just been lost ... but volvo have a way of dealing with this , you get a new key ...

so anyone with the locking nuts from 2001 to 2005 get them off whilst you still can and replace them with the current new type available from Volvo ..

capt jack · Aug 30th, 2011, 17:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan

I have found the cars where the bolts are siezed are always high mileage where the bolts have been on and off a lot of times for tyres and brakes and the cones have mated perfectly to the cone of the bolts together with some corrosion

My nuts

are old and been on and off many times - or rather the bolts holding the wheels on my car are old and have been on and off lots of times!

As a precautionary measure I've ditched the locking ones, the lubricated all 20 with a bit of copper grease before torquing to 110NM. Is this enough to keep the bolts from seizing or would I be as well ditching the lot in favour of new bolts?

Cheers

Jack

As for the nuts, I guess I probably need to ask on a different sort of forum..........?

Clan · Aug 30th, 2011, 18:15

140 Nm is the correct torque for S80 V70 S60 XC90 2000 onwards ...

capt jack · Sep 1st, 2011, 08:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan

140 Nm is the correct torque for S80 V70 S60 XC90 2000 onwards ...

Hells Bells!

The handbook and Haynes for my 1997 V70 says 110NM, and my torque wrench only has settings up to 130NM!

The local tyre place did them up to 130, and that's what seized the locking one.

Jack

Clan · Sep 1st, 2011, 18:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt jack

Hells Bells!

The handbook and Haynes for my 1997 V70 says 110NM, and my torque wrench only has settings up to 130NM!

The local tyre place did them up to 130, and that's what seized the locking one.

Jack

The pre 2000 V70 etc had 12mm threads the later after 2000 had 14mm threads ... that explains it :-)

Aug 28th, 2011, 19:54	#13
linesi wish it was new again Last Online: Aug 28th, 2011 19:57 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Milton Keynes	stuck locking wheel nuts all 4 locking wheel nuts on my 2001 v70 were locked on tight. The tyre garage messed up my locking wheel nut socket and then looked at me like I was going to magic the answer out of the air! These are the hardened bolts with the flower type pattern in the top. After a quick bit of research it seemed that the Dynomec tool was the thing to use. After a call to the guys at Dynomec - they said "we can do it no problem". The helpful Rachael gave me some local stockists who I didnt like the sound of, so i stopped in at Dynomecs place in Castleford and they set about removing the bolts. 2 guys later a bit of sweat and the 4 locking wheel nuts were in the bin - I set off for my short break to North yorks. prior to that I'd bought 4 new wheel bolts from Volvo and I put those in - who is going to nick alloys off a Volvo I ask you !! Seems like a great tool to do the job - if anyone is in doubt ask Dynomec for their advice. (ps I dont work for them - just a great tool)

Aug 28th, 2011, 19:59	#14
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:51 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	It seems you had the old "easy to remove " type too as the dynomec tool seems to hammer around the outside of the nut to remove them whilst the later type have hardened tops and a hardened spinning ring around the outside to prevent this.., i would really like to see what Dynomec make of the 2002-2008 types ... __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Aug 29th, 2011, 00:05	#15
MrCrusher Junior Member Last Online: Feb 12th, 2017 18:43 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Darlington	The way I understand it, the "blade 3" tool is the Dynomec"socket" in which you place a double sided "blank" which is made of an alloy that, when hammered onto the socket, forms a "new" key. This new key is apparently good to remove all four bolts usually. The "blank" is reversible, when one end has been used, it can be flipped out of the socket then reinstalled "other way round" so it can be used again fto form a different "key". The "socket" is merely a shroud that contains the "blank" and protects the wheel. The socket/new key can then be rotated with a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. You can even use an impact driver for more "seized" bolts. I'll post some picks of my removed bolts when I get a chance. You'll notice that there is no damage to the bolts so technically, I could use them again. If I was mental. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFXfEhTi8VU The 3 alloy "coloured" items in the bottom of the pack are the "blanks". Last edited by MrCrusher; Aug 29th, 2011 at 00:16.

Aug 29th, 2011, 08:37	#16
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:51 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	Many thanks for that , an excellent description together with the video makes it clear how this works and which nuts it can remove .. However It will only be of use for locking bolts which are still intact , in good condition with clean threads , not excessivly tightened and not with the cone siezed into the alloy wheel cone .. I have been dealing with removing these bolts for 10 years now and the above method i described is the only way i have found which will remove the worst cases , which luckily are not too common , maybe 2 sets a year for me . In these worst cases no amount of torque will free the bolt that is why the key breaks and sometimes the head of the locking bolt cracks , due to the huge torque applied and the bolts still will not undo . I have found the cars where the bolts are siezed are always high mileage where the bolts have been on and off a lot of times for tyres and brakes and the cones have mated perfectly to the cone of the bolts together with some corrosion .The dynomec tool wouldnt be able to deal with these huge torques on siezed bolts or with damaged wavy slots .. The Dynomec tool would be great on newish cars where the key has just been lost ... but volvo have a way of dealing with this , you get a new key ... so anyone with the locking nuts from 2001 to 2005 get them off whilst you still can and replace them with the current new type available from Volvo .. __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Aug 30th, 2011, 18:15	#18
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:51 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	140 Nm is the correct torque for S80 V70 S60 XC90 2000 onwards ... __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

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