Not starting

[340lucy]

car has been sat for two yers, put a new battery on and it's turning over but not firing up. Dizzy cap was gunked up but now clean and still no joy. Any suggestions what to do, things to check etc. Thanks 340lucy

[CTCNetwork]

Hi,

Is there any fuel in it? That which was in it may have gone off.
Check the plugs to see/smell petrol.

Check the earth points too as a poor earth may lead to a poor spark.
Maybe try a good s/h coil to make sure...

Des. . .

[340lucy]

Originally Posted by CTCNetwork

Hi,

Is there any fuel in it? That which was in it may have gone off.
Check the plugs to see/smell petrol.

Check the earth points too as a poor earth may lead to a poor spark.
Maybe try a good s/h coil to make sure...

Des. . .

Was gonna pour a bit of fuel directly down the carb, but had none, will try new fuel in her, just been down to get a price for new dizzy cap, rotor arm and leads but will try this last. What's an s/h coil? My dad always said she was a pain to start after it was left a week or two.

[340lucy]

Here is a video of me trying to start her up I hope the link works for those of you that want to see...
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y11...video-0011.flv

[CTCNetwork]

Hi,

s/h = second hand
Coil = Ignition Coil
Coil to ensure good, strong spark to burn the fuel..

Des. . .

[pettaw]

Hiya, what engine is this? I'm guessing from the sound on the video that its a 1.4? The problem is likely to be two things (You've already dealt with the third thing which was dizzy cap)

The fuel lines from the sender unit in the top of the tank have a nasty habit of perishing meaning the fuel pump simply sucks air rather than fuel. They were made of a cheapy cloth covered rubber hose and perish in about 2 years. Get hold of some good quality fuel lines from Halfords, you'll need the 6.3mm size, preferably in 'injection hose' because its thicker rubber and will last longer. I would also change the ones in the engine bay by the fuel pump too, if they're the cloth covered type.

The second is the fuel itself. Modern fuels go 'off' very quickly, a few months typically and at 2 years the fuel is almost certainly very stale indeed. Having said that I would have at least expected to see some sort of effort to fire.

Have a look at those fuel hoses in the engine bay and also in the top of the tank. There's a cover in the boot, under the carpets. Don't bother trying to preserve the original one-piece clips, just get new fuel hose clips from your local motor factors. Halfords have some clips in their hose packets, but you won't have enough to do all the hoses you'll need to.

Hope that helps.

most of us 300 nuts hang out over at http://www.volvo300mania.com

[malb]

From your video, it sounds as though the battery is getting a little low. My old carby 240's won't fire when the crank speed gets that low, they need a really good battery. Try charging the battery overnight and starting fresh.

If engine is a carby engine, try starting it from a remote can of fresh fuel in the first instance. Keep can well clear of engine and connect to fuel pump with new hose, the bit to replumb the tank and engine bay will do if not fitted yet. Best place for fuel can is beside car wheel (along side the car).

Disconect the fuel line where it enters the carby. If at all possible, try to dump the old fuel in the carby. If there is no old fuel in the carby, it would pay to have it cleaned to get fuel residues, water etc out of the system. Its amazing what these can clog.

Assuming a manual fuel pump to match carby, while the line is off the carby, pull all spark plugs to release compression and ease load on battery, then crank engine till fresh fuel comes out of fuel line. This has primed your temporary fuel line. It can now be connected to the carby to fill the carby bowl. If you don't get fuel after about 10 seconds of cranking, the fuel pump is faulty and will need replacing.

If car has low pressure electric pump, above concept would apply, but you don't need to pop plugs or crank engine. Ignition on should activate pump and fuel should arrive from the can in a few seconds. Switch off and connect supply hose to carby.

While the plugs are out, check them to see that they are clean and dry. Dirty oily plugs won't fire well. Wet plugs, fuel or water, won't fire at all. Plugs wet with water indicates that head or gasket is leaking into cylinder, probably more to fix than the car is worth. Plugs wet with fuel indicates that engine has been getting stale fuel that won't fire, or alternatively, that the ignition system has major faults.

If plugs are wet, a good crank with accelerator at full throttle and plugs out for 30 seconds should pump a fair bit of air through the motor to help clear the cylinders.

Fit new plugs unless ones removed where definitely clean and dry.

Set choke and attempt to start at about 1/4 throttle. If engine is not at least firing within ten seconds of cranking, you need start working your way through the ignition system. If engine starts, you know that it is capable of running, subject to a decent fuel supply.

If the car has been idle for three years or more, you could have a load of water in the fuel tank. This could be condensation, or seepage. Personally I would drain the tank completely. Probably drop it out to examine for obvious leaks (into and out off), and definitely rinse it through and drain a few times with metho. Metho will absorb a lot of water, so it is great for washing suspect fuel tanks. Also evaporates so that it doesn't leave any residue.

I have had to reverse flush fuel lines with metho in the past as well. Tube from metho bottle to pump inlet, then connect the feedline to the pump outlet, bypass any filters, and activate while disconected from tank. A couple of litres of metho through the lines (catch it in a bucket or bottle) should totally flush the supply line for you.

Look at the content of the catch bucket or bottle. Black solids indicate decompossing fuel line, will clog filters and pump valves. Rusty colloured metho indicates that water has been present and has started rusting tank interior and lines. Rusty tank interior means that rust particles will continue to flow through system and clog filters, look for a cheap aftermarket filter to add before original filters or pump if possible and be prepared to change them often. Cheaper in the long run to replace a $5 filter every couple of months than change a $50 one evey 6 months.

[340lucy]

Yer It's a 1.4 litre engine!Will give all the tips you have given me a go, will try and get down to her Saturday!If I still cant it started I will make my way over to 300mania and pick at their minds!Thanks 340lucy

[adamsky01]

i don't recommend this normialy but try getting a little fresh petrol poor ten mll strait down the carb putting a rag over the top hold it down till she starts to choke then pull of it should start it

[340lucy]

I've not been down since I initially tried, but will be going down asap, all my work is piling up!But I think fresh petrol is esstential to getting her started!