interior roof fabric or, lack of

[jethro]

Hi,
I have recently aquired a 1987 740GL automatic estate , I am pleased with
the old dear , and find it a very usefull work horse.

The interior roof fabric has all but gone, and I am told that this is a common
problem with this model.

Has anybody had the same problem with this model ? and if so is there any
way I can repair this myself ?

although the old dear is in remarkable condition for the year with 164000 on the clock, I would like to give here a new roof.

kind regards

jethro

[mnchianu]

hi all,
I found Volvo roofs to be one of the greatest thumb down for most volvo models. mine 740 series has similar problem. Currrently the engine is hunting - its rpm at start-up is unstable moving up and down within 400-750 - and as I drive, the engine goes out as soon as my leg is off the accelarator.
what is the solution?

[ivor940]

Following from Brickboard.com 700/900 FAQ:

1/8" Material IS A MUST; don't let anyone suggest 1/4" since your car is designed for 1/8"
Knowledge of Your Sunroof is a Must.
I would also recommend you have your sunroof seal replaced at the same time

. Adhesives will NOT hold it up, even temporarily, since the layer of disintegrated foam that remains attached to the headliner board will continue to flake off and not provide anything for the adhesive to stick to See the excellent illustrated article on Do-It-Yourself Headliner Replacement at DIYNetwork.Com, .

[Tips from David Jeff Sagging generally starts in the domed section of the headliner over the backseat passengers. The foam usually initially stays glued to the headliner board. The fabric just separates from the foam. You want to use 1/8" headliner EVERYWHERE, not just on the sunroof. The reason for this is that the headliner must go under various edges around the car (including under that plastic edge at the sunroof opening) and the 1/4" is too thick to fit. Also, the 1/4" material is much heavier and will pull off the headliner backing board over time faster than the 1/8".) I think Anthony's has 1/8" fabric. 3M makes a spray glue ("3M General Trim Adhesive - Clear Part No. 051135-08088") made specifically for this purpose. I think you need to completely remove the headliner board from the car. I'm not sure what the board is made of. It's fragile and somewhat brittle. It's not particleboard. It's not fiberglass. It is some kind of molded pressboard with a brown wax paper glued to the top side. The board is secured on plastic strips above the windshield and the back window. At the rear there is a square plastic fastener about 1" from the edge in the middle of the back window. Plastic trim pieces screw in above the doors holding the sides and a plastic molded trim strip secures it to the sunroof opening. The electric sunroof motor cover, the dome light and the sunvisors and rearview mirror secure the rest. To remove the sunroof headliner, see the FAQ section in Body-Sunroof. I recommend removing the upper half of the backseat (it's in the way to remove the trim pieces around the rear side windows) Crank both front seats all the way back as low as possible or take them out of the car. Remove the trim (8 pieces, 4 each side) the visors, the mirror and the sunroof trim. Don't forget the fastener at the back. With a helper, attempt to carefully lower it and pass it through the passenger front door (biggest hole) Without excellent help and great luck, you will break the board where the rear view mirror attaches and along both sides of the sunroof opening. [Tip from Lawrence] The only way I could get mine out was to bend it. Just pick a spot that won't be noticeable when it's back in the car. Bend a bare mininum, just enough to get it out. Try not to break (you may have to crease it). But even if it breaks, it will be easier to fix the one crack and not a jigsaw puzzle of broken pieces.

Repairing the Headliner Board:

Once out of the car; it's time to repair the board and prepare it for re-gluing new headliner material. Coarse sandpaper will quickly remove the foam and dried glue. Sanding and painting should be all that is required for most boards. Some present greater challenges and require more patience. My first board was busted up before I even tried to get it out. I laid the pieces out on a flat table. I used wooden yardsticks and paint stirrers for support on the top side of the board. The yardsticks ran from front to back providing additional support to the board along the sides of the sunroof opening. More support may be needed around the rearview mirror and sun visors. Drilling holes and securing the boards with flathead machine screws are excellent in re-establishing the headliner board. Carpet seam tape also does great to secure this extra reinforcing. Also, try fibreglass mesh and compound to repair breaks. [Tip from Bill] Any repairs to mend cracks in the board should only be done from the back side of the board. If you use tape or any type of strapping on the front side this will show through the finish when completed and installed. After sanding down the bottom side getting it ready to reglue; I used yellow mesh sheet rock tape. Anyway, this mesh tape provides a great foundation for bondo. I used bondo to re-construct the board. I sanded the bondo smooth. Duct tape can be used to redefine the edges of the board. Then I painted the board with latex paint just to be sure my new headliner fabric would have a good surface to stick well so it wouldn't sag again in a few years. Use duct tape to repair the board. It works. The headliner board does not bear any weight so there really is no need to make it very strong. The material will hold it together, the duct tape will do the same as well. Glueing and Installing Fabric:

The glue is sprayed uniformly on both the fabric and the board. It sets 1 to 3 minutes. Follow the directions on the can! You get one good chance to place the fabric where you want it. I cut the fabric 6" longer than the board. I then fold the fabric in 3 sections - no cutouts for sunroof. I glue one section at a time. I get my helper and start at the rear being sure to totally anchor the molded section allowing headroom for the backseat. After doing all 3 sections, trim to 1" around edge and flip over and spray glue to secure. For the sunroof opening - cutout leaving 6" fabric to secure to the roof opening in the sunroof frame. (The first time, I neatly trimmed to the board and figured out I didn't leave enough fabric after I got it back in the car.)



ivor940

[penninepullman]

Where is the best place to get the material to renovate roof?
I have the facelift 760 estate which has roof lining with 'a furry texture'. Need to get same colour, as this material is used on A posts and elsewhere, particularly in load area.

scrap yard, got one that was nearly mint for a tenner (which i would still deem steep), but upon fitting it I bent the thing in half (as no one was around to help out), still its in, but looks just soooo much better, before there was more of the material hanging down than there was up!! lOL

[LankyTim]

Ive tried to remove 2 mint headlinings from volvo 740 estates and destroyed both of them Its a very tricky operation. It snaps around the sun roof apeture.

Good thing is you actually can remove them, many cars its almost impossible to do properly.

[1stRaven]

Well, after some spirited driving from a mate (V6 man on this forum), my head lining looked like this



To solve it, I took a sharp blade and just removed the lining completely and then hooved off the foam. Looks okish at the moment. Plan is to clean it up better and then paint it

I was trained as a car restorer in the 80's and worked in the motoring technical press with my Dad for some years.

I have a 740 gle saloon with no head lining and a 740 estate which I am stripping for spairs.

The estate's head lining is not bad but the fabric is comming away from the foam in some places.

I am planning to adapt the head lining to fit my saloon. So I will take pictures and post them and it may help.

John

[Jonathan_angelo]

After attempting to re-do the headlining in my 760 saloon last weekend, the bastard has fallen down again in the moulded bit above rear passenger seats. Im very tempted to buy some new material and completely remove the entire headling and refit it nicely. That way it will be clean and i'll probably end up using some of my mothers craft glue which is anti aging - so wont discolour. The 3M Boarder adheasive doesn't seem strong enough (and just before you moan at me, i did remove the foam with a scouring pad before re-gluing - see my post "saggy headlining".

I'll jkeep you posted!

[stephen-in-hull]

Sorry this posting is late, but I hope that it will help.

Possible source for headlining fabric.

"Woolies" (I & C Woolstenholmes Ltd) of Market Deeping, Lincs, keep a fantastic range of interior trim consumables, and run an outstanding phone- and mail-order service.

Address :

Woolies
Whitley Way
Northfields Ind Estate
Market deeping
PETERBOROUGH PE6 8AR

Tel 01778 347 347 (phones not manned weekends, 'cause they are usually away at vintage car events)

Fax 01778 341 847

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk

E-mail: info@woolies-trim.co.uk

They also sell a thixotropic paint-on near-instant adhesive (gives about ten minutes repositionable time) to stick headlining to plane surfaces.