Extension of Brake being spongy

Does anyone know how I can test the electronic function of the ABS unit? I've removed the cover and found 2 relays also when i jiggle fuse in the box it blows as I'd expect so there's current there and if I remove and replace the fuse with a good one I hear the ABS ECU click so it's a good guess there's power going in. Still no ABS light ! Wondering if I remove one of the sensors will that earth the circuit in such a manner as to force the warning light on?

Also what is there supposed to be in my car ? ie ABS unit, Master cylinder (mine has pipe one blanked off wonder if it's the non ABS version fitted) There isn't a pressure valve anywhere. I only have a ABS Sensor on the front wheels (is this correct)

Charlotte

[Chesh740R]

You should have an ABS sensor on each front wheel, the rear wheels are done using the speedometer pickup in the rear axle.

You'll have the Master cylinder which will have two pipes going from it to the ABS unit under the bonnet. The master cylinder should also have two blanking nipples in it.

The ABS unit is connected to an ABS ecu thats located up near the pedal box.

As for testing the units, i'm afraid thats where my knowledge of ABS units ends and why i try to buy 700's without it.

The bleed sequence should be relatively the same, i cant remember the sequene of the top of my head, but its usually opposite corners for each circuit. Check the brickboard FAQ for confrimation or the haynes manual.

Thank for that. My Master cylinder has three pipes and one blanked off with a nipple. The ABS pump is marked L R V and I believe H, pipes go to each of these. I'm going to, tomorrow, see if I can earth the ABS System forcing the light to come on to see if it's functioning correctly or at all.


I'm also going to use some 5.1 fluid to see if that resolves the problem.

Charlotte

[bb54]

5.1 is better than 4 due to its higher boiling point.
cant see it sorting your prob unless unless your boiling your 4.

wayne

Calipers replaced re-fitted again everything loosened torqued up now the brakes are terrible infact there aren't any. No air coming out of the bleed valves. No leaks or splits anywhere

Pressure bleeder wouldnt do anything just expelled fluid out of the master cylinder bottle.


Advise please

Charlotte

[octo0072000]

Originally Posted by charlotte001

Calipers replaced re-fitted again everything loosened torqued up now the brakes are terrible infact there aren't any. No air coming out of the bleed valves. No leaks or splits anywhere

Pressure bleeder wouldnt do anything just expelled fluid out of the master cylinder bottle.


Advise please

Charlotte

you need less than 20psi in tyre or bleeder will leak and rubber seal in cap

[bb54]

you must have selected the wrong reservoir cap seal char, it works by the tyre pressure ,pressurising the res, the pressure then pushes the fluid out of whichever nipple is open.

the open nipple will then flow with dirty and airiated (spelling) fluid.

when free of bubbles and clean, tighten nip and move on to next, keeping an eye on res fluid leval at all times.

it takes a fraction of the time of manual bleeding.

hope this helps

wayne

Nope it's the correct seal. starting to wonder if there is an obstruction somewhere causing the problems. Pressure bleeder tyre was 14psi so low enough seem the cap my be the wrong size though going to get a non return pipe tomorrow.

Charlotte

[bb54]

forgive me please char, but was the easy bleed kit new or was it borrowed from someone and in bits ?

reason i ask is... for the life of me i cant work out how your getting fluid blowing out of car reservoir/easy bleed bottle if the right seal has been selected and both caps have been tightend adequatly.

is it assembled/used as follows: black pipe from tyre (not attached yet) going to the clyndrical easy bleed bottle (in upright position and adequetly filled and tightend) the clear tube from the easybleed kit bottle then goes onto the cars fluid reservoir via the selection of cap sizes in the easy bleed kit.

when aseembled and tightend, attach tyre fitting to pressurise the system and then undo a nip and hey presto.
tighten nip back up when free of bubbles and clear in colour.

sorry if ive told you nothing you dont already know, just trying to assist you.

wayne

the easibleed is mine had it for many years, possibly needs replacing. One question the pipe inside the easibleed bottle does it go from the clear inlet or the black inlet? This could be the problem the pipe could be on the wrong inlet.

Going to strip the entire system tomorrow and start again.
I'll keep you upto speed
charlotte