Reference information: PCV parts list inc. clamps

[ilmiont]

I'm posting this as I think it could be useful to people replacing their PCV system in the future. I completed this job on my car a couple of months ago and found the VIDA diagram (2 Engine with mountings and equipment > 25 Intake and exhaust system > Crankcase ventilation) is incorrect in several ways, particularly around the clamp sizes you require.

The following information is correct for my 2005 2.5T (B5254T2). It's what I think you'll need to buy to do a complete PCV replacement. Note that some part nos. appear multiple times as I think it's clearest to break down each use case individually.

Main Parts List

Qty. Part No. Description

1x 8692211 Oil trap box

1x 30731068 Breather hose (main metal one that runs around the engine)
1x 976561 Clamp, breather hose to oil trap [Oetiker 25.6mm]
1x 976561 Clamp, breather hose to turbo PTC [Oetiker 25.6mm]
1x 978170 Clamp, breather hose to thermostat fitting [Oetiker 17.0mm]

1x 30677388 Side coupler rubber hose (oil trap to block)
1x 978180 Clamp, side coupler to oil trap [Oetiker 34.6mm]
1x 978188 Clamp, side coupler to block [Oetiker 48.5mm]

1x 8653339 Lower coupler, oil trap to block (return port to sump, this connection doesn't use any clamps)

1x 8692217 Upper breather hose to head
2x 976561 Clamps (upper breather to oil trap, upper breather to head) [Oetiker 25.6mm]

1x 31325709 Banjo bolt, to intake manifold
4x 947282 Banjo bolt crush washers

Other Parts

Line No. Qty. Part No. Description

1 1x 978170 Clamp, EVAP line to intake manifold [Oetiker 17.0mm]
2 1x 978172 Clamp, brake booster line to intake manifold [Oetiker 19.8mm]
3 1x 9458534 Intake manifold gasket
4 1x 31430474 Throttle body gasket (if removing to clean)
5 5x 30731375 Injector O-ring kit

- 1 — This line will need to be removed to make it easier to move the manifold around. If like mine, the line itself is probably well past its best and could be replaced too at this time. The part no. is 30757307 which is the complete assembly, preassembled including the two check valves.
- 2 — Allows you to completely remove the manifold from the car.

Important Notes on the Banjo Bolts

There are two banjo bolts (17mm heads) — one the intake manifold, one to the side of the block. VIDA incorrectly shows them as the same part number.

The one to the manifold has a check valve in it. The one to the block should be unrestricted as it's a coolant connection.

Replace the one to the manifold with a new bolt 31325709. I'm not 100% sure what the correct part number for the bolt to the block is, but it probably doesn't need to be replaced. Mine seemed to be in perfect condition.

You will need 4x of crush washer 947282 as both bolts need one on each side of the fitting

[Antoine240bk]

Thanks!
i completed the PCV on the same block as you B5254T2.

Instead of using the main breather hose 30731068, i used the pcv nipple from a S80 T6 part number: 30731007 which save me quite a bit of money.
yes a new cooper washer for the Banjo bolt 947282 is needed.

The Banjo bolt to the block part number: 8653884

[Joe Harding]

Out of interest, why was this work done?

[ilmiont]

Originally Posted by Joe Harding

Out of interest, why was this work done?

In my case, because I'd read a lot of literature online (and had several people remark to me at Volvo shows) that it should be done now. It has a degree of notoriety for clogging up and causing issues.

Volvo has inspection/cleaning in the service schedule at 108k and 162k; neither were done on my car and with oil use having increased over the past year, it seemed time.

Since the job is so involved, there's not really much point leaving original parts in there (my view anyway) so I replaced the whole lot for peace of mind. In the event, everything was really clean, except the small nipple/banjo bolt fitting to the intake manifold which showed signs that it was starting to clog (that's what Volvo really want you to clean).

If your car is high mileage it's a good idea to check/clean this system. As the poster above writes, you don't have to replace the whole metal breather like I did, you can use the part from the S80 T6 instead. If you do this, make sure you still pull the breather off the PTC at the turbo end anyway and check it is clean. (It's not reputed to clog as often as the fitting to the intake manifold, but it can and it will cause PCV issues under boost.)

For posterity if others find this thread - the easiest way to check the PCV is to place a rubber glove over the oil filler cap on a hot engine. It should be visibly sucked in to form a nice smooth depression over the grate. Also remove the dipstick and look for smoke (bad). My car passed both these checks but at this mileage I decided it was worth doing this and I'm glad I did. A job that's much better done early than late. Cars that mainly do short trips are much more susceptible to problems, sometimes before 100k judging by internet research.

Photos of my multi-day project are in my showroom thread -> https://volvoforums.org.uk/showthrea...47#post2911547

[Antoine240bk]

A pcv system was done very late at 191k which have resulted a oil leak on the crankshaft seal, hopefully not the upper cam seals. Positive crankcase pressure in the system will push the seals out.
It is a lot of labor work for the cost of a 17 euros crankshaft seal!

[Chris1Roll]

Note that the earlier cars did not have the non-return valve in the banjo bolt to the manifold, which I suspect is why it is shown as the same as the one on the coolant line.
Consequently, they always pressurised the crankcase to a certain degree under boost, regardless of the condition of the PCV.
This might have been 'OK' when the cars were new, but with 20+ year old seals, not so much.

The intake cam seal blew out on our B5244T3 V70XC back in March because of this (the PCV system was perfectly clear, and the car passed the glove test both before and after the seal blew; both at idle and when revved up. I had to do a 'driving glove test' involving hoses running from the dipstick tube up to the windscreen to get the glove to inflate.).
It is amazing how quickly the oil comes out from the cam seal, it emptied all 5.8 litres out of the sump in just a couple of miles.

While I was repairing the car I replaced the clear banjo bolt with the updated version with the non-return valve in it.
This is an 'upgrade' I would strongly suggest everyone does for the sake of the ~£10 the banjo bolt cost.