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Grinding noise from NSF wheel at bends/ full lock

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Old Jul 17th, 2018, 23:05   #1
AyrshireVolvo
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Default Grinding noise from NSF wheel at bends/ full lock

Hi,

Like most people I suppose my first post is going to be a question ! I've driven an X reg Volvo S60 2.4 t with 17 inch wheels, since 2006. Prior to that had a 940 which was an absolute tank of a car and great fun to drive. I'm no mechanic and only really learn things when something breaks or needs fixed. Which brings me here today. My question is I think a fairly common one from what I've read but I'm unsure of the answer. So here goes -

I have a scuffing type noise coming from the NSF (passenger) wheel. This has always existed but was only noticeable if the car was on full lock. This noise has now got louder and more frequent. I can hear it going round corners and sometimes when straightening up after a corner. My warning light for traction control/slip light is flashing all the time at bends.

Here is a link to the noise during everyday driving, going round a corner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7kARBjGM2E

Here is a link to the noise at full lock.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4_vlyTnmmk

There are some shiny scuff marks in the wheel well if you take the wheel off for a look.

I've had a bit of work done to the car recently and I mention that to add some background info. I was on holiday and my mother, firstly had a problem with the brakes and then noticed a noise while looking after my car, took it to a garage.

8/5/18
Delphi Front Brake pads
Delphi Front Brake Hose x 2
NSF Brake Caliper

31/5/18
OSF top strut mount and bearing replaced
Front Anti Roll bar drop Linc

4/7/18 (My trip to the garage regarding this noise)
Volvo Steering Arm Stop x 2
Delphi Lower Arm Suspension Bush x 2
(Delphi Rear Brake Pads)

Advisory notice - NSF Top Strut Mount Corroded

13/7/18 I was feeling a bit of drag braking and the noise was still there
OSF Brake Caliper
Brake Discs x 2

From what I've read so far if the noise was only on full lock, the cause might be - old shocks, bad alignment, broken steering stops. If that expands to going round corners - bad outer CV joint, bad wheel bearing. Also on Volvo's I read the NSF mount might be an issue and the mounts cage is hitting the frame. It is corroded so that's a possibility. Some people talk about buying 'turn stops' or spacers in which affect turning radius but reduce the noise. But I have two Volvo steering arm stops, is that not the same thing ?

I love my car but it's starting to get expensive, the NSF top strut mount will be getting done, I'd be delighted if that resolved this issue but wonder if it is the cause.

Any advice much appreciated, Gary
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Old Jul 18th, 2018, 00:55   #2
Georgeandkira
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The noise in the first video was odd in that it dwelled. All the wheel scuffing I've ever heard or experienced is at the extreme limit. Backing off a bit ceases the noise.

See if all your fender lining (the plastic stuff) is secure. Also, the steering stops are available in 3 sizes. Are you certain the ones you have are big enough?

The second video contained nothing I could hear.
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Old Jul 18th, 2018, 15:52   #3
AyrshireVolvo
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Georgeandkira thanks for the reply.

The fender lining I will have a look at, it appeared ok but I’ll check.

The steering stops is a good shout. Do you know what size I should have ? That’s something that seems to have resolved this sort of issue for a lot of people. I can look into that and find out what’s been put on the car.

Sound quality isn’t great recording on my phone, I need to put the volume up high on my phone or laptop to hear it.

Thank you.
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Old Jul 18th, 2018, 16:11   #4
Turbodave
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I assume that post steering component replacement, you had the alignment checked and adjusted? Chance are it's the tyres rubbing the inner arches on full lock, an issue that is magnified by wider tyres / bigger wheels, worn lock stops and alignment out of kilter.

With regards to the size of the lock stops, there's no hard and fast rule as to what size you'll need... there's only a few millimeters between them and the likes of tyre brand and alignment differences can mean two identical cars need different sizes of stops.

You can just put small washers between the stops and the wishbone to space them out and keep adding some until it stops rubbing but be aware that you may need an area the size of France to complete a U turn... and again if there are underlying issues such as alignment, the scuff plates misaligned on the inner wings or indeed something unrelated, changing the lock stops may not resolve.

To be honest, my suggestion would be a tame mechanic with a four post ramps, stick it on full lock with the car weighted and have a look under and see what's fouling then take remedial action from there.
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Old Jul 18th, 2018, 18:33   #5
ASt85
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Thanks for the very informative posts from GeorgeandKira and Turbodave, and having just had this issue develop in my C70.
I'd suggest the first port of call would be to grease the steering stops, they are a well known "issue" with all the 850 (sic) and P2 series.

Second port of call would be the "rubber washer" at the base of the steering column as it passes through the bulkhead aka firewall - in dry weather these have a habit of producing a heavy rub/buzz/grinding noise as the steering wheel is rotated left or right, but more commonly left - a splodge of copper ease or lithium grease on the bush/washer/interface solves the problem - IMHO it will be the steering stops on the end of the lower wishbones that are the problem.
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Old Jul 18th, 2018, 21:06   #6
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Ive had odd sounds from foaming of the power steering fluid due to low level normally on lock

Check the level on the reservoir dip stick, cold.


Could be the metal arch liner plate, ~8inch square. They often lose one fixing and dont sit flush any more and protrude and so catch the tyre edge. You will see the shiny stripe where the black paint has worn off.


Also the bump stops as mentioned allow the above more than just losing a platic nut on the guard plate.


possibly the plastic arch liner not secure or not sitting flat to the inner wing/arch.

I have had this where mud layers have built up behind the liner jacking it way from the inner wing / arch - reducing the clearance further.

With the bump stops, they wear on the bottom only, they can be fitted the other way up - to use the un worn edge - but you need to drill a new hole and slice the end off . Be obvious when you look, I cant recall the detail.
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Old Jul 21st, 2018, 22:44   #7
AyrshireVolvo
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Thank you all very much for taking the time to give detailed replies. Much appreciated.

Turbodave - I haven't had the alignment checked, good call. Thanks for expanding on how lock stops work. Interesting to know that. Another avenue to explore.

ASt85 - thanks for your post. I'm writing all this down to take with me to the garage !

D5meister, I just reread your post. I checked the brake fluid today I'll go back and have a look at power steering fluid. It looks ok but been a while since it was changed. The liners looked ok when I had the wheel off. Thanks for replying.

Bit of further misfortune today actually. I was driving along and thought hang on, this scuffing sound is now present when driving in a straight line. ABS light came on. Slip/traction light going mad. Something was really wrong. Had a look at car at lunch time (was at work) had it on full lock in car park then went down a quiet road and tried a few emergency stops to check brakes. Felt like front left brake was kind of sticking on when I took foot off brakes. Popped bonnet up for a look and the OSF top strut mount was protruding up about the space of a finger, that's new and must have thrown the whole car out of balance.

When I was on holiday that was replaced. Seemed a bit strange to do one and not both especially when putting an advisory notice that the other one was corroded and needed done. Why not do them both ? I had always wondered if a new one and old one had thrown things out of balance a bit. I'm disappointed the new one has failed so fast. Suppose its an old car and these things might happen, anyway next stop is back to my usual garage and see what they think might have caused this to happen then we'll take it from there regarding scuffing noises.

As a courtesy I'll post how the problem is eventually resolved in case it's of use to others. Thanks again. Gary
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Old Jul 22nd, 2018, 09:20   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AyrshireVolvo View Post

Bit of further misfortune today actually. I was driving along and thought hang on, this scuffing sound is now present when driving in a straight line. ABS light came on. Slip/traction light going mad. Something was really wrong.
What you are describing might well be caused by a cracked abs reluctor ring.
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