D5 timing belt procedure required?

[hmsggg]

can anyone please send me a link should one exist for the procedure of changing timing belt on my 2003 S60 D5 much appreciated need to get done as there are little cracks in the outer face of the belt and mileage is at 91000 now and I can't afford garage bills at mo especially with christmas coming also is there anything else I should change at same time like water pump/ bolts etc
thanks again

[Clan]

Those little cracks on the surface are quite normal and won't cause a problem . If a "belt" goes it isnt the actual belt which breaks , it is the aux belt tensioner that fails and the aux belt gets tangled in the cam belt and pulls it off . So make sure you change the aux belt and it's tension rollers . You will need a crank pulley nut and 4 bolts . the crank nut is extremely tight 300 nm ... It helps to have the pulley locking tool to get the nut off and more importantly to hold it whilst you tighten to 300 nm .otherwise a straight forward job . You wont need a water pump just spin it and make sure there is no roughness , there should be just detectable up/down play ..

[Thassos]

I need to do this job on my D5 185 Euro 4 soon although its only at 83K, sounds like undoing the crank nut is the deal breaker, being torqued to 300nM !, when i changed the timing belt on my old S40 i used an RAC 12v electric impact wrench which worked a treat, link below:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-12V-Im...843#vi-content

Im guessing you cant get the new belt on without removing the pulley, clan- where does the locking tool fit to? and do you need to replace the nut plus the four bolts? do you think this tool would be ok for re-tightening it? I think on the S40 it was a lower torque of 180nM and it didnt have any trouble getting the nut off, would have been impossible using regular 1/2" hand tools. The impact wrench spec seems to be 350nM max.

[outnumbered]

Originally Posted by Thassos

I need to do this job on my D5 185 Euro 4 soon although its only at 83K, sounds like undoing the crank nut is the deal breaker, being torqued to 300nM !, when i changed the timing belt on my old S40 i used an RAC 12v electric impact wrench which worked a treat, link below:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-12V-Im...843#vi-content

Im guessing you cant get the new belt on without removing the pulley, clan- where does the locking tool fit to? and do you need to replace the nut plus the four bolts? do you think this tool would be ok for re-tightening it? I think on the S40 it was a lower torque of 180nM and it didnt have any trouble getting the nut off, would have been impossible using regular 1/2" hand tools. The impact wrench spec seems to be 350nM max.

it has been posted on the forum that you can change the belt without taking the pulley off, but alas no pictures or write up.
mike

[hmsggg]

Originally Posted by Clan

Those little cracks on the surface are quite normal and won't cause a problem . If a "belt" goes it isnt the actual belt which breaks , it is the aux belt tensioner that fails and the aux belt gets tangled in the cam belt and pulls it off . So make sure you change the aux belt and it's tension rollers . You will need a crank pulley nut and 4 bolts . the crank nut is extremely tight 300 nm ... It helps to have the pulley locking tool to get the nut off and more importantly to hold it whilst you tighten to 300 nm .otherwise a straight forward job . You wont need a water pump just spin it and make sure there is no roughness , there should be just detectable up/down play ..

thanks for that, I was hoping less nm was required I have only got a 2ft breaker bar no torque wrench either think i will pay £60 labour cost for fitting unless someone else has any other ways of doing it without these tools lol

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Thassos

I need to do this job on my D5 185 Euro 4 soon although its only at 83K, sounds like undoing the crank nut is the deal breaker, being torqued to 300nM !, when i changed the timing belt on my old S40 i used an RAC 12v electric impact wrench which worked a treat, link below:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-12V-Im...843#vi-content

Im guessing you cant get the new belt on without removing the pulley, clan- where does the locking tool fit to? and do you need to replace the nut plus the four bolts? do you think this tool would be ok for re-tightening it? I think on the S40 it was a lower torque of 180nM and it didnt have any trouble getting the nut off, would have been impossible using regular 1/2" hand tools. The impact wrench spec seems to be 350nM max.

The belt on the petrol which is the same engine down below is able to flex around the pulley but the Diesel uses a wider belt which is very difficult to wangle out , i would like to see the person on here doing this, who said it could be done after 10 years of doing these myself !

The locking tool is part no 9995433 it costs about £25 from a dealer and is held to the pulley by those 4 bolts it lodges on the subframe to lock the pulley .
Yes volvo say you must change the nut ,and the 4 locking bolts are stretch bolts so must be used only once and angle torqued . This is very important on a diesel which has big stresses in the pulley area when idling .
300 nm is your full body weight and more on a medium 2ft long torque wrench .

[Thassos]

Clan,

Many thanks for your input, im guessing you couldnt use a torque wrench to retighten to 300nM due to the location sounds like a scaffold pole job! What sort of tool is used by dealers? also do you know what size the crank nut is?

[Digidick]

PM me your email address and I'll send you a PDF from Autodata outlining the timing belt replacement procedure.

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by Clan

The belt on the petrol which is the same engine down below is able to flex around the pulley but the Diesel uses a wider belt which is very difficult to wangle out , i would like to see the person on here doing this, who said it could be done after 10 years of doing these myself !

The locking tool is part no 9995433 it costs about £25 from a dealer and is held to the pulley by those 4 bolts it lodges on the subframe to lock the pulley .
Yes volvo say you must change the nut ,and the 4 locking bolts are stretch bolts so must be used only once and angle torqued . This is very important on a diesel which has big stresses in the pulley area when idling .
300 nm is your full body weight and more on a medium 2ft long torque wrench .

Clan, sorry but many people on here have done this on a D5 without removing the crank pulley. Why would they lie?

I have every intention of doing mine myself but the crank pulley will not be getting touched. If i find it impossible rest assured i will post and admit it but i have every confidence that it can be done without damaging the new belt.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...cambelt+change

Darryl

[Clan]

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

Clan, sorry but many people on here have done this on a D5 without removing the crank pulley. Why would they lie?

I have every intention of doing mine myself but the crank pulley will not be getting touched. If i find it impossible rest assured i will post and admit it but i have every confidence that it can be done without damaging the new belt.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...cambelt+change

Darryl

that is great , a guinea pig to test the theory , let us know how it goes ...