D5 timing belt procedure required?

[Telco]

I'm with Clan with this one, I think people have been getting confused with the petrol. I'm sure I read someone had actually chiselled off a lug on the D5 so they didn't have to remove the pulley?? Why potentially FUBAR the whole engine for the sake doing a job properly ?
p.s 300NM is a heck of a torque!!

[Thassos]

Does anyone know what size the D5 crank nut is ? would be interesting to hear from others that have done a D5 cambelt change, and if you were able to do it without removing the pulley (not that im doubting clan !) are the diesel 163 and 185 engines identical in the cambelt area?

[Brendan W]

IIRC the quoted procedure for changing the belt without removing the pulley was to cut the old one because it's too stiff to wrangle out and then force the new pliable one in. Then I'd be sat there thinking what have I just done to my nice new belt that I expect to do a gazillion revolutions. I bottled it and took off the pulley but in the end had to go to my friendly indy because I was afraid I would bust something with that 300Nm and my amateur tools and that was after I bought the locking tool.
I changed the tbelt, tensioner and idler and the aux belt , idler pulley and tensioner assy complete ( overkill) and the alt clutch followed soon after. It looked and felt ok at the time but there was about 1mm axial play and it started cricket noises at about 96k
There were hundreds of shallow transverse cracks on the back of the belt , apart from that it looked in very good nick.

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by Clan

that is great , a guinea pig to test the theory , let us know how it goes ...

Ah but Clan, "Guinea Pig" implies that it has yet to be done and reading posts on here ( Lozza for one ) cleraly state that they have done a DIESEL belt without removing the pulley.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Thassos

Does anyone know what size the D5 crank nut is ? would be interesting to hear from others that have done a D5 cambelt change, and if you were able to do it without removing the pulley (not that im doubting clan !) are the diesel 163 and 185 engines identical in the cambelt area?

the nut is 30mm AF and the belt is the same on both the 163 and 185 ,but there are aux belt and tensioner differences .
In general you never had to change the cam belt idler roller but now you have to change both the idler roller AND the tensioner itself .
also the aux belt's two plastic wheels ( one a tensioner and one an idler ) have to be changed , as these are the parts which can cause the cam belt to be dislodged if they fail .

[Mark H]

I changed my belt last year.
The 30mm crank nut came off easily using a cheap electric impact wrench, with no need to counterhold the crank. I did buy the tool, but only needed it to torque the new nut to 300Nm, which wasn't that bad.
I had more trouble angle tightening the 4 smaller bolts.
Ended up with it in gear, and the wife on the brake pedal.

With the right tools a fairly straightforward job.

I still have the counterhold tool if anyone in N. Herts wants to borrow it.

[Thassos]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for your post-

Thats very interesting, would be interested to see a pic of the holding tool if anyone is able to post one. So is the sequence to torque the 30mm nut up first and then remove the locking tool and fit the 4x new bolts and torque them up? Mr Haynes mentions a hole near the flywheel that a locking tool can be used in (looks like a stepped diameter rod) has anyone used this, im guessing it wouldnt be ok for the 300Nm pulley nut? but perhaps for the 4x smaller ones?

[Clan]

The tool and torques ....

[Mark H]

Originally Posted by Thassos

Hi Mark,

Thanks for your post-

Thats very interesting, would be interested to see a pic of the holding tool if anyone is able to post one. So is the sequence to torque the 30mm nut up first and then remove the locking tool and fit the 4x new bolts and torque them up? Mr Haynes mentions a hole near the flywheel that a locking tool can be used in (looks like a stepped diameter rod) has anyone used this, im guessing it wouldnt be ok for the 300Nm pulley nut? but perhaps for the 4x smaller ones?

If you were to use the tool to remove and install the crank nut, you would:-

Remove the 4 stretch bolts. Use them to attach the tool to the pulley, then rotate the crank, with the tool attached until the tool becomes wedged under the subframe. You can then remove the crank nut without turning the engine.

When installing, I used the old stretch bolts to hold the tool. Once I had torqued up the crank nut to 300Nm, I then removed the tool, old bolts and fitted new stretch bolts. Tightened them to 35Nm + 50 degrees. ( Car in gear, wife on brake pedal.)

Clan's photo shows the tool in operation, and his advice is sound. I wouldn't risk damaging the belt, trying to get it round the pulley. Its really not that hard with the right tools to do the job properly.

[Symes]

No need for a "guinea pig" Clan; I did mine a few thousand miles ago without removing the crank pulley, and no I wasn't confused... it really was a D5 (an EIII 163).

As I've stated before, the OLD belt wouldn't slide out (as does the petrol) so I used a pair of aviation tin snips to cut the belt, allowing removal from the 'front' of the engine (i.e. removal in the same plane as it normally runs).

The NEW belt is flexible enough, and has a slippery silicon coating to allow it to slide past the oil pressure relief valve allowing fitment in a similar motion to the petrol.

The only thing that you need to watch is that the belt and pulley teeth are disengaged when you pull the cut end of the belt out so that the crank pulley doesn't move.

It saves theextra step of removal of the crank pulley, leaving more time to enjoy a cuppa!