ABS rings

[cheshired5]

Camber is the leaning in or out of the wheel and will affect handling and tyre wear if it's out so you mark or measure the struts relation to the hub and restore it to the same position on reassembly.
If you're unsure, get your alignment check properly.

[andyKent]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Camber is the leaning in or out of the wheel and will affect handling and tyre wear if it's out so you mark or measure the struts relation to the hub and restore it to the same position on reassembly.
If you're unsure, get your alignment check properly.

Ah, ok, - will get it checked then. Ta!

Andy

[RoyMacDonald]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Camber is the leaning in or out of the wheel and will affect handling and tyre wear if it's out so you mark or measure the struts relation to the hub and restore it to the same position on reassembly.
If you're unsure, get your alignment check properly.

I don't think camber is adjustable on the XC90, unless they added it after my model, other than the movement allowed by the holes.

I should add anytime you do work on the steering or suspension you should get it aligned though.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by RoyMacDonald

I don't think camber is adjustable on the XC90, unless they added it after my model, other than the movement allowed by the holes.

We're talking fractions of degrees for camber to be out so if any movement is allowed, it is by definition, adjustable and care needs to be taken.

Castor isn't adjustable.

[RoyMacDonald]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

We're talking fractions of degrees for camber to be out so if any movement is allowed, it is by definition, adjustable and care needs to be taken.

Castor isn't adjustable.

Sorry, I didn't have an adjustment sheet to hand and got it wrong. I knew it was one of the C's.

[andyKent]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

We're talking fractions of degrees for camber to be out so if any movement is allowed, it is by definition, adjustable and care needs to be taken.

Castor isn't adjustable.

Since I'm still trying to get the intuition on this, do you mean that the adjustment procedure for camber is 'tweaking' by loosening the strut bolt(s) and giving the thing a pull/push and tightening? (this is what I know as 'wiggle room') Or is there a more controlled mechanism for adjustment?

Andy

[4candles]

Originally Posted by andyKent

Since I'm still trying to get the intuition on this, do you mean that the adjustment procedure for camber is 'tweaking' by loosening the strut bolt(s) and giving the thing a pull/push and tightening? (this is what I know as 'wiggle room') Or is there a more controlled mechanism for adjustment?

Andy

You've got it.

[RoyMacDonald]

Originally Posted by andyKent

Since I'm still trying to get the intuition on this, do you mean that the adjustment procedure for camber is 'tweaking' by loosening the strut bolt(s) and giving the thing a pull/push and tightening? (this is what I know as 'wiggle room') Or is there a more controlled mechanism for adjustment?

Andy

No I don't think so. That's for caster. (hence the no adjustment comments) Camber has proper adjustments for it. I've seen the alignment guy appear to be using an adjuster at the bottom of the struts like this guy. I believe one of the bolts has a cam on it so when you turn it it moves the wheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO1ZT5osWDw

[andyKent]

Originally Posted by RoyMacDonald

No I don't think so. That's for caster. (hence the no adjustment comments) Camber has proper adjustments for it. I've seen the alignment guy appear to be using an adjuster at the bottom of the struts like this guy. I believe one of the bolts has a cam on it so when you turn it it moves the wheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO1ZT5osWDw

I guess the point is that if nothing else moves then the strut bolts can change the camber because they seem to be used to 'grip' the strut and can be shifted (wiggled). Whether this is seen as a method of adjustment or just a question of tolerance depends, I suppose, on how out of whack it's possible to get the camber by not carefully replacing the bolts where they came from.

Does anybody have any figures (or estimates) on how the tolerances of these bolts can affect (plus/minus) the camber? Is it possible to get the camber badly out of whack by removing and replacing them?

I did drop a plumb line (from various points) to check that the camber was not hugely out of whack and it isn't (compared with the respective rear wheels - to account for road camber). It also doesn't look (by eye) any different than it did before or drive any different that I can notice.

I guess I need to do some trigonometry if I want to quantify whether things are within spec but I don't have any spec (plus/minus range) at this point and need to find a reliable flat surface to get the trig.

Andy

[Citysi1974]

Thanks for this. I replaced my nsf abs ring at the weekend as the warning message had come on a few weeks back. Mine was cracked, I must admit I was surprised the crack, that results in a slightly wider trough in just one place on the ring was enough to cause this issue.

I found that with a good clean the new ring tapped on cold with no problem.

I also used a tie wrap through hub assembly top mounting hole and the strut top location bolt hole which worked well and prevented pulling the abs sensor cable.

I did find I had to removed the bottom bolt. I thought that the fit of the bolts through the bracket on the strut and through the hub assembly were quite a good fit so I am not too worried about affecting the camber.