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How To - Rear Toe Control Bushes

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Old Jul 17th, 2018, 14:47   #1
cchidzey
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Default How To - Rear Toe Control Bushes

Howdy all, I just did the rear toe control bushes yesterday, thought I'd do a write up. It's a simple job, took about half an hour each side.

Tools used-
= 1/2" ratchet with 18mm socket for wheel nuts, and 15mm socket for toe
control bush bolt.
= 15mm spanner for toe control bush bolt.
= Hacksaw
= Hammer and small cold chisel
= Wire Brush and Sandpaper.
= 2 jacks (not necessary, but makes it easier)
= Duck oil, silicone grease, threadlock.
= Pair of new poly-bushes






Typical symptoms of failing rear toe control bushes are heavy tyre wear on the outer shoulders, and at an extreme tyre squeal booting around a roundabout.



Jack up, wheel off and support car. I left the car on the jack and used the wheel and timber under the towbar for safety.




Wire brush and oil the protruding bolt threads, then loosen the bolt.



At this point, with the weight of the suspension hanging on the arm, the bolt is quite tight in the hole. I borrowed a second jack from my neighbour to raise the suspension, this centralised the bolt in the bush and the bolt came out easily by hand.




Remove bolt fully, lower the second jack to drop the arm out of the way.



Now we see just how bad the bush actually is, it didn't look as bad when it was bolted into the car.
The beauty of this type of hollow bush is, there's no need to fight on getting the rubber out of the bush, we can place a hacksaw straight through the bust and cut the outer race.



As the bush outer race is ally and the subframe is steel, it's very easy to cut the bush race without cutting into the subframe bush housing. To put this in perspective, it took about 15 strokes of the hacksaw to cut right through the bush. Take care to get an even cut, the ally does cut easily and you'll feel the extra resistance if you get to the steel.



Using a small cold chisel, deform the outer bush race inwards to reduce it's diameter. 5 good strikes saw this bush loosen in its housing. Once you see the bush freeing up, a couple of short strikes with the hammer and it was out. It really wasn't as tight/stuck as I was expecting.



Clean up the bush housing, inside and both outer faces.
I used poly-bushes as the replacements, for no other reason than they need no tools to fit, they can be put in by hand (might need a gentle tap with the hammer if they're snug). Certainly a damn sight easier than pulling in original bushes.
It's important that the housing is clean. Apply a light lubricant, silicone grease for me but following the manufacturers instructions is te best bet.
These bushes come in 2 halves, so push one half into each side, then push the centre spacer in.



Jack up the hub again to bring the arm back in line with the bush. Make sure all the holes line up. If you're using new bolts, then put the bolts in and screw most of the way home. If re-using the original bolts, clean the threads with a die or wire brush and apply a new drop of threadlock. Again, screw most of the way in, but don't tighten yet.



Drop the jack out from under the hub, refit the wheel and nip the wheel bolts.
Drop the car down onto the ground, fully tighten the wheel bolts, reach in and fully tighten the bush/arm bolt.

Rinse and repeat for the other side.

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Last edited by cumbrianmale; Jul 19th, 2018 at 20:38. Reason: Link back
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Old Jul 17th, 2018, 14:50   #2
Tannaton
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Good write up that - it's pretty much how I did it.

Its worth noting that if you replace it with an OE spec bush you will need some sort of puller to re-install it.
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Old Jul 19th, 2018, 20:39   #3
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