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b16 engine overhaul

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Old Nov 28th, 2019, 18:52   #51
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Thanks. Already sorted.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 19:01   #52
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How did you sort?
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 21:36   #53
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Found a source in USA. More details after their holliday
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Old Dec 4th, 2019, 18:18   #54
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Update. Isky could provide camshaft but no lifters. Deciding to go ahead and order camshaft from VP autoparts to avoid any customs hastle. Having followers faced. On the other front most of parts for rebuild arrived Tuesday. Just waiting for valves.Still got to get the big nut off the timing wheel. Too cold to work in Garage today,14c max!
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Old Dec 4th, 2019, 23:05   #55
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You can leave the cam change until you have the rest of the engine back together. The crank gear can then be jammed to the cam gear so you can get an impact driver onto the nut. Or, before you put the oil pan on you can jam the crank so that with the gears locked together you can use a long spanner on the nut. Mesh together anywhere as you will retime it with the new cam. Is there a torque figure for the B16 nut? About 85 ft/lbs OK for B18 with a bit of basic Loctite. Volvo reduced the original figure after people started to snap cams during a period when the strength of the cams was sub standard.
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Old Dec 5th, 2019, 11:33   #56
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Cylinder head before and after. Not going down the hardened route.Having to watch my pennies at this time. Once I get new valves lapped in should be good for my time
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Old Dec 5th, 2019, 14:12   #57
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George, I'm enjoying your journey. Thank you.

I have an MGA engine build this winter, but those Isky cams you found are giving me an incentive to build up my spare B16 engine as well.
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Old Dec 8th, 2019, 12:32   #58
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Replacing felt seals.Rear seal, should it be pre oiled? Any advice will be appreciated. What's the purpose of the second rear groove?
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Old Dec 8th, 2019, 12:58   #59
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Yes soak in oil, overnight is good and then give them a gentle squeeze to reshape them. The parts book says Felt Ring x 2, so that would mean both of the slots should house a felt seal, I would think. Technically that seems like a good idea. Can you see two worn rings on the crank to prove that? By scratched I mean witness marks. I hope that the casting will get a good clean, along with all the rest of the similar parts. The angled surface matches a similar one on the crank. As near surgical clean as OCD can manage. Excess oil drains from the bottom of the felt/felts and out through the slot at the bottom and back into the sump. That hole must not be blocked. Note the two "seal fillets" in the sides, which are I think made from wood. They should be in your gasket/seal kit.
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Old Dec 8th, 2019, 14:00   #60
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Only two felt strips,one each top and bottom when disassembled. the second groove seems narrower. Will see if anyone on brickboard knows. Don't want to block the second groove at this time.
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