Removing 164 back seat?

[940_Turbo]

Originally Posted by Lesky

Does anyone know what the stuff is between the carpet and the floor? Is this sound vibration damping material? Any ideas on how to remove it?

Sound deadening. If there is no rust under it I'd leave well alone. If you want it off it'll chip off by going at it with a broad bladed wood chisel. The colder it is the easier it'll come off. You need to be a bit circumspect with some of the sound deadening and seam sealers. Asbestos was used in them. I don't know if the Volvo ones used it. But don't be silly with it.

Isn't it lucky it is freezing cold out?

[arcturus]

I tried both ways, hot and cold and found it came away more easly with heat from a hair drier. came away in one piece, and yes ,there was some corrosion under one of them

[john h]

Originally Posted by Lesky

I finally got the seat out. I ended up having to push the rear section of the frame out of the hook using a pry bar. Actually went pretty easy.

Here is my main motivation for stripping the interior


The rust doesn't appear to be into the sill, but I'll have to wait and see. I am going to take the paint down and see. If it's not bad, I'll treat it with rust killer, prime, and paint it. If it's beyond that, I'll have to have a shop do the work.

That's a typical rust spot. I am certain you will need welding done there. The outer metal is bulging and swollen which indicates the the rust is coming from the moisture trapped between the overlapping peices of metal.

The grotty paint on the sill shows that the area has had temporary cosmetic work done in the past.

If you check pages 20 and 21 of my thread (my banner is a link) you'll see the repair of this area on my car.

Originally Posted by Lesky

Once I pulled the rear seat I got a good look at my rear wheel wells.
Right
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/z...t/DSCF0005.jpg

Left


It looks like someone has already done some sort of repair.

Hard to tell whether this is a good repair or not. I suggest that you remove the paint/sealent to investigate. You need to determine whether all the rust has been cut out, or whether you have new metal welded over rust. If it was all cut out, no problem, just repaint the repair. But If you have new metal welded over rust, it will need to be cut out and repaired properly. If you don't, the rust could accelerate and spread into the floor and chassis rail.

There seem to be some photos missing from my VOC thread, but if you look two-thirds of the way down page 1 of my TB thread you'll see the investigation and repair on this area of my car.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=165915

Originally Posted by Lesky

I also found some surface rust under the carpet that I am planning on fixing. Hopefully there isn't anymore once I remove all of the carpet.

Most of that is surface rust - a typical symptom of water leaks. But also, I think you may have deeper rust coming through from the inner sill (the vertical panel near the front where the carpet is folded - is that a rust hole?). The horizontal seam where the floor joins the inner sill may also be rusty. Wire brush the area throughly; if it is "lumpy" then you have swelling caused by rust between the layers of metal. If it is perfectly flat and smooth, apart from neat circular spot welds, then you just have surface rust. If you can post another photo with the area cleaned up I can tell you more.


Don't get disheartened, it's all fixable and not too serious!


John

[guitarman]

Hi, the 'sound deadening material' that's been mentioned interests me. I have patches on the rear of the wheelarches in the trunk of my 164. They are thick, about 3mm, about 150mm square and made of a hard, evenly perforated material. It has been sprayed so identification is difficult.
At first I thought it was some bodged strengthening to rusty arches but was told it was sound deadening material, i'm still suspitious of it, any opinions? Jimmy

[Lesky]

Thanks everyone for your comments. I've got final examinations coming up so work will be slow for the next two weeks. I plan to finish stripping out the rest of the interior over the christmas holiday and doing the first bit of wire wheeling.

Anything I should be aware of before I remove the ECU to pull up the carpet? I just need to pull it out to remove the carpet and then put it back in. I need to have the car be operational during all of this. I've never handled ECUs before, especially old ones.

[john h]

Originally Posted by guitarman

Hi, the 'sound deadening material' that's been mentioned interests me. I have patches on the rear of the wheelarches in the trunk of my 164. They are thick, about 3mm, about 150mm square and made of a hard, evenly perforated material. It has been sprayed so identification is difficult.
At first I thought it was some bodged strengthening to rusty arches but was told it was sound deadening material, i'm still suspitious of it, any opinions? Jimmy

It's original. It is fitted to stop the large wing panel resonating.

John

[john h]

Originally Posted by Lesky

Thanks everyone for your comments. I've got final examinations coming up so work will be slow for the next two weeks. I plan to finish stripping out the rest of the interior over the christmas holiday and doing the first bit of wire wheeling.

Anything I should be aware of before I remove the ECU to pull up the carpet? I just need to pull it out to remove the carpet and then put it back in. I need to have the car be operational during all of this. I've never handled ECUs before, especially old ones.

Do you have a workshop manual? I think mine says something about ECU removal, but I can't remember what!

If you don't have a manual get back to me and I'll check when I next go to the workshop.

John

[Audrey Old]

When I got my 164E non-runner a few years ago I swapped every injection component over, in turn, from my other, running, car. Assuming your ECU is the same as mine (on the floor, under the seat), it is connected to the systems via a large multi-plug. This is a proper plug, not the modern flimsy plastic junk, and is easily disconnected for ECU removal.

I'm electrically illiterate but I got mine in and out OK - and both cars work fine! Just keep everything away from the damp.

Paul

[Lesky]

Yes, I do have a workshop manual. I have the green Volvo one. So, taking it out looks very straight forward.

[john h]

Good. And best of luck with your exams!

John