Electrics: Xenon headlight

[100K+]

The link below shows an exploded parts view of the Xenon Headlamp of a V70.

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/im.../GR-279747.jpg


Does anyone know of a way of testing the Motor ( item 9) when said motor is out the car.
There is a + and - on the casing as well as a 3rd central connection.
I ran a 12v supply across the + and - terminals but got no response. I did not want to try the same action on the other motor incase what I was doing was damaging.
I don't really want to splash out on a new motor until I know its duff.
The reason I suspect its duff is after I did a SUM calibration that light did not move.

Cheers

Bob

[pacman67]

I too have these lights and neither of mine move on start up. Ive had an mot station adjust the dip beam up as it was very low. A sum calibration did not move the lights either. I was going to go to the rear sensor on the axle and unclip the arm and try moving it to see if the lights move. I believe these sensors can go faulty and cause various symptoms.

[100K+]

Originally Posted by pacman67

I too have these lights and neither of mine move on start up. Ive had an mot station adjust the dip beam up as it was very low. A sum calibration did not move the lights either. I was going to go to the rear sensor on the axle and unclip the arm and try moving it to see if the lights move. I believe these sensors can go faulty and cause various symptoms.

Immediately after I did the SUM calibration I removed the motor connections on both lights, I had to jack the rear of the car slightly to get the " voltage to high" error to go away before the SUM calibration could be done. ( original readings were R = 1.60v (ok) L = 3.94v (too high). When I got to L=3.47v (r=1.89) the calibration could be done.)
I dropped the car to ground and noticed the nearside light was now actually higher than before the SUM Cal. The off side was unchanged.
Connecting the motors caused the N/S light to drop back to its original position. The O/S again stayed unmoved.

Hence my original question - of how to test these motors. I think as the rear sensors are only simple potentiometers its unlikely they totally fail. More likely they'd just give badly adjusted lights due to their incorrect voltage readings. If the motors fail however, then you would loose adjustment due to suspension movement. Perhaps the lights then falling to a default setting of lighting the road only 15' in front of the car.

I'll see if I can crawl under my car tomorrow and unclip the arms and see what movement - if any I get by moving the arms. - good call that thanks

Cheers

Bob

[pacman67]

I had a couple of spare level motors that I plugged onto the light looms and watched them as I started up, I did see some small movement.

[100K+]

Originally Posted by pacman67

I had a couple of spare level motors that I plugged onto the light looms and watched them as I started up, I did see some small movement.

That sounds about right.

Today I have discovered there are two Xenon set ups
A) Non 4c
B) 4c

A) is calibrated via the rear electronic Module
B) via the SUM

I have also discovered there is a position sensor within the headlight unit, which probably accounts for why even after I manually adjust my lights up, they soon revert to their old position.
I have ordered a new rear ride height sensor, £37 quid from Volvo but my cure for the light motor (swapping out my soon to be scrapped T5 ones) failed, as although they look the same and have the same number (PA 66-GF 30) the knuckle that fits into the light housing is a smaller size on the T5 and just pulls out. I have been told these items are a common fail - ( Valeo made in France - say no more.)

I have found some motors on the web for about £50 but the issue with my T5 makes me think I'd be better off at a dealer.

Cheers

Bob

[pacman67]

Originally Posted by 100K+

That sounds about right.

Today I have discovered there are two Xenon set ups
A) Non 4c
B) 4c

A) is calibrated via the rear electronic Module
B) via the SUM

I have also discovered there is a position sensor within the headlight unit, which probably accounts for why even after I manually adjust my lights up, they soon revert to their old position.
I have ordered a new rear ride height sensor, £37 quid from Volvo but my cure for the light motor (swapping out my soon to be scrapped T5 ones) failed, as although they look the same and have the same number (PA 66-GF 30) the knuckle that fits into the light housing is a smaller size on the T5 and just pulls out. I have been told these items are a common fail - ( Valeo made in France - say no more.)

I have found some motors on the web for about £50 but the issue with my T5 makes me think I'd be better off at a dealer.

Cheers

Bob

I swapped the level motors by stripping them down and swapping the pin with the knuckle, not easy. No different. I'd be interested to know if it is down to the rear sensor.

[100K+]

Originally Posted by pacman67

I swapped the level motors by stripping them down and swapping the pin with the knuckle, not easy. No different. I'd be interested to know if it is down to the rear sensor.

How did you strip them down?

I got the cover off to reveal the internal gubins but could not figure out how to get the pin out.
Does the three point insert twist off - tried that but didn't want to budge - at least not with the small amount of twist I applied.
There was also a 2/3mm opening in the centre which again did not readily want to twist off.

Or do you go in via the inside? If I could get them swapped over it would save me buying a new one.

Cheers

Bob

[pacman67]

Originally Posted by 100K+

How did you strip them down?

I got the cover off to reveal the internal gubins but could not figure out how to get the pin out.
Does the three point insert twist off - tried that but didn't want to budge - at least not with the small amount of twist I applied.
There was also a 2/3mm opening in the centre which again did not readily want to twist off.

Or do you go in via the inside? If I could get them swapped over it would save me buying a new one.

Cheers

Bob

I did it by feel really, took the back cover off then you have to rotate the drive gear, the pin has a sort of pin in it the slides in the gear making it move in and out if that makes senses. I can't remem exactly, I did break one or two bits and ended up binning two motors that were spare units, so basically made two from four.

[100K+]

That makes sense - did not look too closely at the inside as I felt sure you went in to get the pin out from the outside.

If I felt brave I'd just cut the ends off, drill a couple of 2mm holes in the new shaft and old knuckle, and using a 1.5mm dia pin araldite both bits back together.

But I'm a coward


cheers

Bob

[100K+]

I have spoken with a Volvo dealer this morning and they say that there is a difference between the motor that operates via the dash board switch and the auto adjusting motor run by the SUM.
They are different part numbers and the motor running via the dash is cheaper than the motor running via the SUM.
So it would appear just swapping over the spindles is not an option

Cheers

Bob