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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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1961 Volvo PV544 in Holland

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Old Jul 29th, 2018, 13:11   #341
Derek UK
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I think that these bars are the mounts for the arm rest. When you use this as the door pull they might flex a bit and a previous owner has beefed them up to reduce this. Might be the only car in the world that has had this done. Is the other door the same? Volvo stiffened them up by having moulded sides to the pressings.
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Old Jul 29th, 2018, 14:13   #342
arcturus
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Door internals
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File Type: jpg 20180729_02.jpg (233.0 KB, 12 views)
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Old Jul 29th, 2018, 17:11   #343
Army
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
I think that these bars are the mounts for the arm rest. When you use this as the door pull they might flex a bit and a previous owner has beefed them up to reduce this. Might be the only car in the world that has had this done. Is the other door the same? Volvo stiffened them up by having moulded sides to the pressings.
The other one doesn't have the repair and looks like this =>



I reckon you're right the door pull does indeed screw into this part - the captive nuts however seem like sliders to me...

...right time to move on and not worry about it!

Thanks to arcturus for the pictures - looks just like my non repaired door

###########


In other news the paint stripping has been seeing a bit of progress with the synstrip - much more effective than the PORstrip: Look three almost down (just a few edges to do) and only a few bits left.



In the next few days I plan to have all of the rear body parts stripped as well as the last bits on the body. I need to do a few trial fits to see if any hammering needs to be done. It will be interesting to see what a bare metal PV will look like eh?

I think it might look almost hotrod
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File Type: jpg 1961 Volvo pv544 door internals2.JPG (127.7 KB, 115 views)
File Type: jpg 1961 Volvo pv544 paint stripping progress1.JPG (178.5 KB, 111 views)
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Old Jul 31st, 2018, 15:33   #344
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Default State of the front LH wing

I expect the RHS to be as bad (!)

It has already had a bit of a crash diet - I've scraped as much as 1cm filler off this panel as well. I haven't started on the underseal yet but I reckon it will be at least 1kg lighter by the time I've finished...

...as was patently obvious when I bought the car the upper rear corner of the wing is rotting away =>





Time to make some repair sections

So far this is the worst bit of rust I've found on the car (there's only the other front wing to check - the rest of the car has been surprisingly rust free)

Can't complain really - it was very visible when I bought the beast

Virtually every hole for mounting the wing to the car and other parts like the front indicators has been ovalised and messed about with. Metal fatigue and bits falling off.

Time for some welding



The headlight bucket was more or less held in there with underseal =>



(And even so was a right royal pain in the bottom to get out!)
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Old Aug 1st, 2018, 17:02   #345
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Default Underseal removal

I'm getting quite good at this now (though I say so myself) - good enough to show how I get the blinking stuff off in a kind of mini-DIY
If you've seen previous posts about this I've been struggling - I've tried a few things and I reckon the following combination is the best I'm going to be bothered to iterate towards.

Step #1

Remind yourself this is a tedious job and it is going to take a long time

Step #2

To minimise the amount of muck / dust you will spread, scrape away the layer of dirt that is probably stuck to the underseal (If you skip to step #4 you're likely to waste precious resources)



I bought one of those multitools - I'm surprised it has been so useful to be honest with you - I thought it was just marketing BS trying to extort money in a different form. That's not to say the add-ons and accessories for these multitools aren't over priced - but I digress!

Tip: If you've got access to one of these multitool things buy a super stiff cheap scraper from your local discount shop instead of buying say more flexible branded versions (they aren't any use on underseal what so ever)

Tip: Hand scrapers are available and can be just as effective but take a bit longer to wield

You don't have to go mental with this stage - if it is loose remove it but don't bust a gut (the chances are you'll end up denting thin metal if you're not careful)



Step#3

Warning this is unpleasant and mucky

Stiff wire brush on angle grinder time =>



Don't bother pushing down really really hard at that stage - you're just going to melt the underseal and it will stick itself back down in a new place.

You should, however, see a fine dust of little balls of underseal coming off the top surface.

Step#4

Thinner / spray gun wash time

This is getting to be quite expensive stuff - if you haven't bothered doing the last two steps then you are likely to be making expensive mud first (!)



Brush it on so it stays wet for about 10 to 15 minutes. Vigorous brushing sometimes helps too - but remember step#1 - this is a boring tedious process so don't bust a gut.

Step#5

After about 15 minutes of soaking wipe away any damp parts



You really want to do this in particular before you go back to the angle grinder and the wire brush attachment - flinging wet partially dissolved underseal about the place ain't nice

A sensible step is to go back to the scraper first =>



Step#6

Keep going with the following order:

Angle grinder + wire brush attachment (on dry underseal)
Soak in thinner
Wipe off
Scrape

The underseal will eventually be beaten.

If like me you're not very good at tidying up as you work - learn to be tidy! The scraps of old underseal get everywhere (especially if you're flinging them about with the angle grinder). Before you know it you'll have 1970s platform shoes with underseal soles if you don't sweep up regularly.



It does take some time - this front wing took about 2 hours to get this clean

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Last edited by Army; Aug 1st, 2018 at 17:05.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2018, 20:37   #346
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Default Risking a lynching

After all that scraping and sweat I wonder how a bare metal finish would be received (!)



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Old Aug 3rd, 2018, 10:57   #347
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I thought I was going to get lynched for suggesting that I should just clear coat it and be done - seems like I've dodged that bullet!
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Old Aug 4th, 2018, 15:58   #348
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Default I can alomst see the end of the paint stripping phase...

...the outside of the body is more or less done. Only the odd tiny spot of paint here and there that will be removed in the rustyco de-rusting and cleaning phase.

(Don't ask about the body panels they're still a work in progress)

BUT!

The inside is getting very close to being stripped too =>







For my slow rate of progress it feels like it is almost cooking with gas...
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Old Aug 6th, 2018, 16:38   #349
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Default Yet more paint and old sound deadening removal

Today I tackled the inside of the boot lid

Because of the caustic nature of the Synstrip I took my time with the boot lid with its double section areas that are impossible to reach - I don't want to leave Synstrip in these cavities



Removal of the old sound deadening seemed to be a good idea as I thought there might be rust under it =>



It turned out to be the colour of the glue used - but hey ho - it isn't like boot lids are not known for rotting from the inside out. I'm glad I checked.

In my ever lasting stride against dust I used thinner to soften up the old sound deadening before reaching for my favourite tool combination

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Old Aug 9th, 2018, 14:53   #350
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Default It is still the time of slogging along...

...removing underseal and stripping paint continues.

I did have a slight amount of variation today, however, as I patched in a quick repair on one of the front wings



Got to start the rust killing treatment next to see if any more holes arrive before I break out the epoxy.
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